The first fashion week was held in 1943. Fashion weeks: what happens to them and who needs them now

Demonstrations of the collections of legendary fashion houses are least of all similar to traditional shows - they are always a theatrical performance, a real performance, where models are only a part of the overall event. Dior, Chanel, Louis vuitton s and many, many other world-famous brands are ready to surprise again and again, as if most of all fearing a repetition.

1973: Fashion Battle

The first Fashion Week took place in New York, back in 1943. In Paris - thirty years later. The grand historical fashion show took place on November 28, 1973. It was organized by the founder of New York Fashion Week, Eleanor Lambert, and the curator of Versailles, Gerald Van Der Kemp. The main goal is to raise funds for the restoration of the famous royal palace and surrounding areas. The show was called "The Battle of Versailles" and in fact became such: French and American designers, representatives of completely different "concepts" in fashion, were invited to participate in it. Bourgeois chic legislators Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Christian dior, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Ungaro clashed on the same podium with pret-a-porte creators from America ─ Oscar de la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein, Bill Blass and Halston. For the latest shows, it was, in fact, a turning point in history: American fashion finally got a chance to step out of the shadows and loudly declare itself in Europe. The show was attended by over 700 guests, including Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minnelli (who sang the famous song "Cabaret" on the show), Andy Warhol, and many other rich and famous people of those years. Officially, it is believed that practical and assertive Americans won that fashionable "battle". But Europe also won: after all, from that very day the Paris Fashion Week begins its history.

1992: Madonna walked topless at Jean Paul Gaultier

For laymen, Jean Paul Gaultier "began" with a pink satin corset with cups-cones, which the designer created for the singer Madonna. In fact this is not true. The couturier presented the legendary cones back in 1984, thereby defining the vector of his further development: shocking. And where there is shocking, there, as you know, is Madonna, so, in fact, there is nothing surprising in the fact that in 1992 the star of the world stage appeared at the fashion show of his beloved designer in a black striped sundress with braces and breasts "oh naturel".

1995: Itsy Bitsy Bikini

A bikini has always been considered a provocative wardrobe item, regardless of its openness - after all, with each season, the concept of excessive frankness becomes more and more blurred. In 1995, at Paris Fashion Week, Chanel designers presented perhaps the most minimalistic version. Further only - the pads on the nipples, which, however, were not long in coming.

1997: Stella McCartney presented a new vision for Chloé

In March 1997, Paul McCartney's daughter was named Creative Director for Chloé, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld. By the way, the latter was very skeptical about this appointment, saying that the fashion house had gained fame in the music world, but not in his native field. However, Stella quickly dispelled the myth that talent rests on the children of geniuses, and presented her first successful collection in a new position. McCartney's debut show was so successful that the day after it, it seems that not a single one appeared in the press. negative feedback about her collection for the French House.

1997: John Galliano and his Dior debut

The first collection of the shocking designer literally blew up the fashion world. It was dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the fashion house and was called "African women". Then Galliano brought fashion models with hairstyles and makeup reminiscent of primitive tribes to the podium. The young designer, who does not tolerate simplicity and minimalism, boldly combined motives historical costume Art Nouveau and 1930s chic intertwined with ethnic motives... Galliano managed to revive the Dior style, he managed to make it modern and relevant. Dior clothes were again worn by stars.

1997: Alexander McQueen and Givenchy

In 1996, McQueen took over the Givenchy house. Famous for his non-standard ideas, the designer continued to amaze in an honorary position: McQueen took a disabled girl out as a model, sprinkled gravel on the catwalk, or completely refused the services of models, replacing them with mannequins on spinning stands. He was named British Designer of the Year three times. At the last award ceremony presented to him by Prince Charles, the designer rode a scooter to the podium in a wide blue jumpsuit, puzzling His Highness with his appearance.

In 1997, McQueen asked his longtime friends, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to take the podium. Both appeared before the public in gold corsets and extreme hairstyles.

2009: Alexander McQueen's Last Show

In 2009 at Paris Fashion Week, Alexander McQueen presented women's collection entitled "Plato's Atlantis", which became the most discussed work of the spring-summer 2010 season. During the screening, pictures of the creation of the world, raging waters, the movements of snakes were displayed on a huge screen. Under this video series, models appeared on the catwalk in sets with patterns of cobra, fantastic fish and animals. The collection was distinguished by a complex geometric cut: wide shoulders, voluminous sleeves and oval hips. The audience gave McQueen a standing ovation, and critics later called the collection an amazing art phenomenon. The futuristic work of the fashion designer was the last in his life.

2010: Hermès and Horses

To begin with, the Hermès brand once produced uniforms for carriages and horse riding, which probably gave rise to the logo that still exists today - a horse harnessed to a carriage. So, everything is not accidental, if not accidental and latest collection Jean-Paul Gaultier under the auspices of the Fashion House. In 2010, to mark the end of many years of cooperation with Hermès, the designer, in addition to models in leather coats and boots stylized as shoes for riders, brought live horses to the podium. Obviously, to be sure to be remembered for a long time. We have remembered.

2011: Smoking Kate Moss

On Quit Smoking Day (well, when else?) Kate Moss took to the podium with a cigarette. For the Louis Vuitton show, Kate chose the unpretentious Marlboro Light. By the way, in France, smoking in public places has been banned since 2007 (although no one is in a hurry to comply with this rule), so there was a double provocation here. However, the creative director of the Louis Vuitton fashion house, Marc Jacobs, nevertheless took a risk in order to put on a spectacular show.

On the same evening, along with Moss, who was 37 years old at the time of the show, other models of the previous generation came out on the catwalk: Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta and Carolyn Murphy.

2011: Florence Welch sings for Chanel

In 2011, Karl Lagerfeld's show was supposed to end Fashion Week, however, just latest designer could not afford. Lagerfeld turned the Grand Palace into a snow-white imitation of the seabed: huge shells, stars, corals and algae lay on the white sand that covered the floor of the palace. The show was like a fairy tale told by the language of clothing. Traditionally, the accessories department of the legendary house tried to come up with shell clutches and coral heels. But perhaps the most unusual element of the performance was the stunning Florence Welch, who sang the song while standing in a large shell.

2012: Balenciaga, Alexander Wang debut

At that time, now one of the most popular designers in the world, Alexander Wong was only 29. Nobody knew such a meteoric rise up the “career ladder”. In 2012, Wong presented his debut collection under the auspices of the fashion house Balenciaga. The reaction to Wong's first work in the fashion world was ambiguous: skeptics did not approve of this union, they believed young designer the least suitable for the role of creative director, however, Wong remained indifferent to criticism. His 2012 collection: it was a mixture sports style and Balenciaga classics. The bright start ensured the popularity of the fashion house and the couturier himself for many years to come.

In 2014, for the show of the autumn-winter collection, the Chanel Fashion House wished to be closer to the masses and invited the audience to the show in ... a supermarket. With the goal of attracting the attention of a young audience to the maximum, Karl Lagerfeld put on a real theatrical performance between the shelves with groceries. After leisurely strolling between various goods, the models took to the catwalk. By the way, Kara Delvin and singer Rihanna took part in the show. Spotlight: 80s culture. Bulky things with a sloping silhouette and a narrow bodice caught the attention, mainly due to the most varied and luxurious tweed textures. Large clips and long ribbons in the hair. Essentially classic outfits - coats and suits - were harmoniously combined with tight trousers and sneakers from the same tweed, sewn in a patchwork technique.

2016: Pierpaolo Piccioli's first solo collection for Valentino

We were looking forward to this show with some trepidation and excitement, because after the announcement of the separation of one of the most successful creative duos in the fashion world and the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri to Dior, it was completely unclear what Valentino would be like now, in which direction she would turn. Now all our fears have been dispelled: Pierpaolo Piccioli not only retained the sophisticated Valentino style, but also added even more magic and femininity to it (although we did not dare to hope that more is possible). Undoubtedly, this is one of the most romantic and juicy ready-to-wear collections of the coming spring-summer season.

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The founder of the American Council of Fashion Designers (CFDA), Eleanor Lambert, came up with the idea of gathering designers at the same time in the same place. The first fashion week was held in New York in 1943 thanks to her efforts. Then the event was called Fashion Press Week and only representatives of the industry were allowed to attend: fashion journalists and buyers. They decided to hold the shows six months before the start of the season, so that the designers had enough time to make clothes. Now the production time is several times shorter, but the tradition of showing the collection six months earlier has remained. Gradually, the fashion became more widespread and the shows lost the halo of inaccessibility. In 1984, Thierry Mugler held a show at the Zenith stadium in Paris - anyone could buy a ticket.

And last summer, IMG was one of the organizers New York week mods - started selling tickets to the event. The cost is calculated depending on what is included in the package of services: attending shows, going to the backstage, meeting designers, hair and makeup from leading stylists and makeup artists. If you don't want to spend money, there is always instagram: live broadcasts from the shows are either conducted by the brands themselves,. Eleanor Lambert could hardly have imagined such a thing. The current state of affairs suits everyone, except for the representatives of retail, for whom the fashion weeks were started. Their problem is that this event has turned into a PR-tool: more and more brands are arranging grandiose shows from the shows, while the commercial goals of the shows are no longer fully justified.

What is the problem?

One of the main disadvantages is a very tight schedule. Every day during fashion week there are up to 20 shows (of course, it is not necessary to attend all of them, but still). Multiply by seven, then four more. Add to that presentations, which are usually off-schedule, and four flights a month. And now fashion weeks do not seem to be idle entertainment. Tatiana Strekalovskaya, co-owner and buyer of SVMoscow, claims that the current format of fashion weeks is extremely inconvenient.

Photo: Rick Owens show spring-summer 2016

“During this time, everyone gets tired, especially the part that is engaged in work (after all, we do not go to fashion weeks to watch shows, but to place orders). Influential big buyers I know don't go to parties - it's so exhausting. On the most important ones, it may seem like ten minutes. Loafers and newbies move with delight from city to city and from party to party, who so far are delighted. At the same time, I feel the growing pressure from the sales managers of brands, they are sharply cutting deadlines, that is, there is less and less time to think about the order. Either this trend will continue further, or another revolution awaits us. What we hope for. "

Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2016

But there are also pluses

First of all, impressions help brands sell. According to the fashion editor of Ukrainian Vogue Tatiana Solovey, thanks to the compactness of fashion weeks, insiders can get a general impression of the season. “Everyone operates with emotional images when they model the mood and trends of the next season. Yes, buyers want jeans and white T-shirts, but it’s not a harsh necessity that helps to sell fashion items, but emotions. Vetements are back on the official schedule for Paris Fashion Week after loud announcements that they will stop running shows. Now, everyone seems to be interested in how to introduce living emotions into the digital world and this wow effect, which happens on perfectly made shows (for example, Dries Van Noten) or at the sight of mesmerizing shop windows (for example, Le Bon Marché), to incorporate in the social network. "

In the photo: Viktor & Rolf spring-summer 2010 show

Let's not dissemble, we all at least once after viewing photos new collection conditional Céline caught themselves thinking that they urgently need to start saving money. In addition, the more unusual the show, the more posts there will be on the same instagram and publications in the media. And here all is fair.

How do brands get attention?

A supermarket, a rocket launch, a replica of the Eiffel Tower, a waterfall - all of which were not on display at Chanel. There are usually no fewer people who want to see the grandiose scenery than those who want to admire the outfits. For the Fall / Winter 2016 show, Tommy Hilfiger erected a real amusement park in New York, collaborated with Gigi Hadid and put the top Instagram influencers in the front row. But the biggest resonance during previous fashion weeks was the finale of the Versace show. Creative director of the brand Donatella Versace invited the main supermodels of the 90s to the show. The picture with Karla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen in gold dresses was seen, it seems, by everyone who has the Internet.

In the photo: Chanel show fall-winter 2017/2018

Mikhail Baryshnikov, creative director of the Anima Jewels jewelry brand, believes that social networks have greatly changed fashion weeks: “Models from among the most popular on Instagram are invited to the shows, and guests in the front row too.”

But the journalist and author of the popular Telegram channel about fashion Good Morning, Karl! Katya Fedorova is sure that the shows are mostly suitable for the press and Instagram. “All these walls of flowers, rockets taking off, celebrities on the podium are just news feeds so that journalists have something to quickly catch on to, because there is no time to write about the collection deliberately now. There is nothing wrong with that, except when marketing tinsel is created in order to distract attention from a weak and boring collection. "

“In the information age, in which we live, the speed and the effect of the exploding bomb are important - the picture. Therefore, most of the shows turned into real shows. Guests come with the attitude: "How will you surprise?" - says PR-manager of Aizel Artur Efremov. - Brands follow an integrated approach: at the shows you can meet important clients and partners, celebrity friends, bloggers and, of course, journalists. It's like risk diversification. So it is here: separation of information streams that will be broadcast through influencers, buyers, stars. "

Photo: Gareth Pugh Fall-Winter 2015/2016 Fashion Show

Not all brands want to participate in the game "pay attention to us"

Some brands, on the other hand, are trying to distance themselves from the pursuit of likes. Vivienne Westwood showed the fall-winter collection only to journalists and buyers: on January 8, the designer sent them photos and videos by e-mail. This time we will not see the Rodarte show either: Kate and Laura Mallivi, the founders of the brand, decided to abandon it in favor of a private presentation. Alexander Wang even stated that in last time participates in fashion week. In the future, the designer wants to present his collections outside the generally accepted schedule. “Recently, more and more brands have been showing off-season collections. Couture was overflowing with ready-to-wear: Proenza Schouler, Ellery, Acne Studios, Kenzo - they all decided to get away from traditional calendar... According to them, an extra month gives more time for production.

Photo: Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2016 Fashion Show

In addition, the collection stays in stores for longer than usual, before the discount season begins, says blogger Doina Ciobanu. - If you think economically and efficiently, then all the shows can be done in electronic format. Both journalists and buyers would save a lot of money, not to mention the brands themselves, which spend huge amounts of money on seasonal screenings. But this industry relies heavily on people-to-people contact, dating. Fashion Weeks are like technology conferences: the technologies themselves can be presented online, but human communication and live experiences are very important to attract investors. "

Maison Margiela fall-winter 2016/2017

It is too early to say that soon all brands will abandon impressions. They are definitely not going anywhere anytime soon. If only because buyers are not tired of looking at the waterfalls and the Hadid sisters. But many in the fashion industry are convinced that fashion weeks are out of date. The most sought-after producer of fashion shows, Alexandre de Betac, believes that the format “a thousand people travel to four cities within a month” is worth reinventing. "Shows will remain excellent remedy communication for luxury brands, but it doesn't have to be done as part of a fashion week. Thanks to social networks shows are so effective that they can be staged anytime, anywhere, ”he said.

The word "fashion" has long been included in our lives and fashion has a special meaning for the world of clothing, accessories, all kinds of beauty products, including underwear. Fashionistas all over the world are actively preparing for each season and want to know in advance trendy news and learn useful ideas for stylish images... Fashion originates from designer fashion shows and epic fashion shows at Fashion Weeks, with the most famous and well-known among them being the New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks.

So let's take a look at where it all began and how individual shows have evolved into modern Fashion Weeks.

In the mid-1860s, the English-born French designer Charles Frederick Worth, one of the first HauteCouture representatives, introduced the display of his clothes directly on young female models, whom he called "sosies" (lookalikes). His first model was his wife, Marie-Augustine Bernet, who became the first fashion model. Thanks to this ingenious marketing tactic, Worth won acclaim from all of his atelier's clients.

The first impromptu catwalk was invented by Frenchman Paul Poiret, who in 1909 showed his collection on girls who walked in the center of the room in front of clients. The designer personally helped the girls change clothes and adjusted the clothes on the models in a separate room. In 1911, Poiret staged a bright theatrical show "1002 Nights, or a Celebration in Persian" in his own garden, which marked a new step in the history of fashion shows.

A full-fledged fashion show with a podium and musical accompaniment was first used in 1905 by the English fashion designer Lucille Glyn.

In 1952 in Florence fashion house Brioni held the first fashion show for men.

At the same time in America, starting in 1903, large fashion shops and department stores in New York and Philadelphia have launched their own shows to attract customers, and have done very well.

The first ever large-scale demonstration of women's underwear was held in 1915 in New York and attracted not only women, but also men, of course.

New York City is widely regarded as the "father" of Fashion Week and the "mother" of Eleanor Lambert, founder of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 1943, she held Press Week, which proved to be very successful as Europe was at that time at war. Thus, the formal date of the emergence of Fashion Week is 1943, and the place is New York.

Since then, traditional Fashion Weeks are held twice a year in four fashion "capitals" - New York, London, Milan and Paris, lasting 5-7 days. From January to April, fall / winter trends are shown, and from September to November, spring / summer trends are shown.

This 10-year-old boy, whose name is Desmond Napoles, is truly amazing, especially after he made his name on Sunday at New York Fashion Week with Gypsy Sport's Fall 2018 Show.

A source:

“I FEEL I-SOO-MUCH !!!” Desmond wrote on Instagram. "I am so glad to have this opportunity today."
In an interview, Desmond revealed that he started wearing women's clothing at the age of 2 when he tried on his mom's heels and walked around the house, and also used the sheets as a wig.

A source:

Desmond describes his appearance as "androgynous" and his style as "avant-garde drag." On Gypsy Sport, he wore a chunky black blazer with Elizabethan ruffles around his neck.

A source:

Desmond exuded confidence on the runway, and this seems to be in line with the concept of Gypsy Sport designer Rio Uribe, who was called a "natural destroyer" in September Vogue.
“For Uribe, thinking outside the traditional canons of fashion is a way of life,” the publication notes.

When Desmond was younger, he wore Mom's clothes, high heels, made a wig out of a towel, and put on a fashion show in the house. At the age of five, he loved to play with toy trains, cars and computer games.
Already at the age of six, the boy wore Elsa's costume from the cartoon "Frozen" and asked his parents to give him dresses of fairy princesses.

A source:

Parents were worried about Desmond's behavior - they were afraid of the reaction of others and possible aggression from his peers. After consulting a therapist, they heard one piece of advice - do nothing, and the boy should develop naturally by exploring his tastes in clothes, toys and activities.
But 2014 Napoles' love for women's clothing only intensified. Then the boy starred in the video of the transsexual singer Jinkx Monsoon, and fame came to him.
In June 2015, he took part in the New York gay pride parade wearing a rainbow tutu and gold beret. His photographs quickly went viral.

Good evening, dear readers of the Sprint-Answer website. The site has already printed an article with a full review and all the answers in the game "Who want to be a millionaire?" for September 30, 2017... You can get acquainted with it by following the link above. And in this article we will dwell in more detail on the ninth question, which was answered by the participants of the first part of the game: Alla Mikheeva and Ilya Averbukh.

In which city was the world's first Fashion Week held in 1943?

New York Fashion Week is one of the four main fashion weeks in the world (together with fashion weeks in London, Paris and Milan), also known as "7th on the Sixth" winter, and in September - spring-summer trends (New York Fashion Week starts on the second Thursday in February and on the second Thursday in September).

New York Fashion Week, held in 1943, was organized by Eleanor Lambert and became the world's first fashion week. The original title was Press Week. The purpose of the event was to distract attention from French fashion during the Second World War, when fashion connoisseurs could not travel to Paris for shows. The venue for the shows until 2010 was Bryant Park. Its 24,000 m² white awnings have become a symbol of New York Fashion Week. At the moment, due to lack of free space, all shows have been moved to Lincoln Center.