The Yusupovs and Paris. Irfe, Irfe fashion house brand history

As a result of the revolutionary events in Russia at the beginning of the twentieth century. many representatives of noble aristocratic families were forced to flee abroad. Many of them in emigration managed to establish their own businesses and glorify their names throughout Europe. In the 1920s. the trendsetters in France were noble immigrants from Russia Irina and Felix Yusupov who founded the IrFe Fashion House. Outfits in a luxurious aristocratic style were in great demand not only in Paris, but also in Berlin and London.

Princess Irina Romanova was the granddaughter of Emperor Alexander III, and Felix Yusupov belonged to an ancient family, one of the richest in Russia. Their wedding took place in 1914. The wedding dress of the Grand Duchess Irina Romanova was luxurious, she wore a crystal diadem with diamonds and a veil of precious lace from the 18th century - the same one in which Marie Antoinette married the French prince Louis. Acquaintances whispered that this thing of the executed queen would bring misfortune to the newlyweds, but their union already caused surprise among many - at court everyone knew about Felix Yusupov's gay orientation. But Irina did not listen to anyone - she loved her chosen one.

Judging by the notes in Felix's Memoirs, he, too, was sincerely infatuated with the princess: “In comparison with the new experience, all my previous hobbies turned out to be miserable. I understood the harmony of true feelings. … I told her my whole life. Not in the least shocked, she met my story with rare understanding. I understood what was disgusting to me in female nature and why I was more attracted to the society of men. Women's pettiness, unscrupulousness and indirectness repulsed her in the same way. Irina, the only daughter, grew up with her brothers and happily avoided these unpleasant qualities. " Next to his wife, Felix, whom many considered a reveler and a libertine, transformed and settled down.

In December 1916, Felix Yusupov took part in the murder of Grigory Rasputin. He escaped punishment, but the family was forced to leave Petersburg. And soon the revolution broke out, for some time the Yusupovs lived on their estate in the Crimea, and in 1919 they emigrated to France. In Russia, the Yusupovs had to leave 5 palaces, 14 tenement houses, 30 estates, 3 factories and mines.

At first, the Yusupovs lived comfortably, selling jewelry that they managed to take out of Russia. But then they, like many other representatives of aristocratic families, were forced to look for additional sources of income. Irina and Felix decided to open their own Fashion House. In 1924 they realized their plans and named their brainchild after the first two letters of their names - "Irfe".

In 1925, the first reviews of their models appeared in French magazines: "Originality, refinement of taste, thoroughness of work and artistic vision of colors immediately put this modest atelier in the rank of large fashion houses." European and American clients were attracted by the opportunity to dress with the granddaughter of the Russian emperor; many came to Irfa with the sole purpose of seeing the famous married couple. In his memoirs, the prince wrote that the clients “came out of curiosity and for exoticism. One demanded tea from a samovar. Another, an American, wanted to see the prince, who, according to rumors, had phosphorescent eyes like a predator. "

The entire staff of the Fashion House consisted of Russian emigrants, but none of them had any idea about the organization of work in the fashion industry. Tall, slender Princess Yusupova often acted as a fashion model and herself demonstrated the models of the Irfe Fashion House.

And then came the Great Depression, the crisis broke out, and the Yusupovs lost most of the capital invested in American banks and lost their rich clientele from the United States. The business became unprofitable, the luxurious aristocratic style of Irfe turned out to be beyond the means of many, simple and versatile outfits from Chanel came into fashion. The Yusupovs lacked business acumen, and in 1931 a decision was made to liquidate the Irfe Fashion House and its branches. At the beginning of the XXI century. the Irfe fashion house was revived. In 2008, at Paris Fashion Week, his first collection was presented after an 80-year hiatus.

They say that all members of this family were haunted by misfortune. ...

Founders of the Fashion House * Irfe *, the Yusupovs | Photo: inshe.tv

As a result of the revolutionary events in Russia at the beginning of the twentieth century. many representatives of noble aristocratic families were forced to flee abroad. Many of them in emigration managed to establish their own businesses and glorify their names throughout Europe. In the 1920s. the trendsetters in France were noble immigrants from Russia Irina and Felix Yusupov who founded the IrFe Fashion House. Outfits in a luxurious aristocratic style were in great demand not only in Paris, but also in Berlin and London.

Princess Irina Romanova was the granddaughter of Emperor Alexander III, and Felix Yusupov belonged to an ancient family, one of the richest in Russia. Their wedding took place in 1914. The wedding dress of the Grand Duchess Irina Romanova was luxurious, she wore a crystal diadem with diamonds and a veil of precious lace from the 18th century - the same one in which Marie Antoinette married the French prince Louis. Acquaintances whispered that this thing of the executed queen would bring misfortune to the newlyweds, but their union already caused surprise among many - everyone at court knew about Felix Yusupov's gay orientation. But Irina did not listen to anyone - she loved her chosen one.

Judging by the notes in Felix's Memoirs, he, too, was sincerely infatuated with the princess: “In comparison with the new experience, all my previous hobbies turned out to be miserable. I understood the harmony of true feelings. … I told her my whole life. Not in the least shocked, she met my story with rare understanding. I understood what was disgusting to me in a woman’s nature and why I was more attracted to the society of men. Women's pettiness, unscrupulousness and indirectness repulsed her in the same way. Irina, the only daughter, grew up with her brothers and happily avoided these unpleasant qualities. " Next to his wife, Felix, whom many considered a reveler and a libertine, transformed and settled down.

In December 1916, Felix Yusupov took part in the murder of Grigory Rasputin. He escaped punishment, but the family was forced to leave Petersburg. And soon the revolution broke out, for some time the Yusupovs lived on their estate in the Crimea, and in 1919 they emigrated to France. In Russia, the Yusupovs had to leave 5 palaces, 14 tenement houses, 30 estates, 3 factories and mines.

At first, the Yusupovs lived comfortably, selling jewelry that they managed to take out of Russia. But then they, like many other representatives of aristocratic families, were forced to look for additional sources of income. Irina and Felix decided to open their own Fashion House. In 1924 they realized their plans and named their brainchild after the first two letters of their names - "Irfe".

In 1925, the first reviews of their models appeared in French magazines: "Originality, refinement of taste, thoroughness of work and artistic vision of colors immediately put this modest atelier in the rank of large fashion houses." European and American clients were attracted by the opportunity to dress with the granddaughter of the Russian emperor; many came to Irfa with the sole purpose of seeing the famous married couple. In his memoirs, the prince wrote that the clients “came out of curiosity and for exoticism. One demanded tea from a samovar. Another, an American woman, wanted to see the prince, who, according to rumors, had phosphorescent eyes like a predator. "

The entire staff of the Fashion House consisted of Russian emigrants, but none of them had any idea about the organization of work in the fashion industry. Tall, slender Princess Yusupova often acted as a fashion model and herself demonstrated the models of the Irfe Fashion House.

Irina had impeccable taste, and Felix had an irrepressible imagination, which became the key to the success of their common cause. The Yusupovs became the trendsetters of French fashion in the 1920s. They soon opened branches in Touquet, a resort town in Normandy, as well as in London and Berlin. Felix also opened a Yusupov porcelain store, participated in the design of 3 Parisian restaurants, in 1926 he and Irina released the Irfe perfume.

And then the Great Depression came, the crisis broke out, and the Yusupovs lost most of the capital invested in American banks and lost their rich clientele from the United States. The business became unprofitable, the luxurious aristocratic style of Irfe turned out to be beyond the means of many, simple and versatile outfits from Chanel came into fashion. The Yusupovs lacked business acumen, and in 1931 a decision was made to liquidate the Irfe Fashion House and its branches. At the beginning of the XXI century. the Irfe fashion house was revived. In 2008, at Paris Fashion Week, his first collection was presented after an 80-year hiatus.

The Russian house "Irfe" existed in Paris in 1924-1931. The founders and creators of the models are Princess Irina and Prince Felix Yusupov.

The clan of the Yusupov princes came from Abukerir ben Rayok, a descendant of the prophet Ali and nephew of Mohammed, who bore the title of Emir el Omar. One of the descendants converted to Christianity and took the name Dmitry and received the princely title from Tsar Fyodor. Under Catherine the Great, Prince Nikolai Borisovich Yusupov, one of the most educated and wealthy people at court, became especially famous. The owner of numerous estates, including the Arkhangelsk one, he was a keen connoisseur of art, a collector of jewelry and a lover of women. These possessions and passions, except for the latter, were inherited by his son Felix Yusupov.

Prince Felix Feliksovich Yusupov, Count Sumarokov-Elstov, was born on March 24, 1887 in the Yusupovs' palace in St. Petersburg on the Moika.

His mother, Zinaida Nikolaevna Yusupova, was a woman of rare beauty and graceful manners. In his memoirs, published in Paris, Felix Yusupov devotes a lot of space to the description of what he saw in childhood luxury dresses, sables, silks and velvets. His childhood hobby, which survived into adulthood, was oriental exoticism, a kind of game of “sultan.” Another harbinger of the exotic atmosphere characteristic of the Irfe house was the interiors of the Crimean estate of the Yusupovs Kokkoz, which in Tatar means “blue eye” Kokkose hosted "oriental dinners" and kept an entire wardrobe of Ottoman-style clothes for receiving guests. Felix loved to dress up. Once he was seen singing in a trendy St. Petersburg cafe in women dress of blue tulle with silver sequins and a lush espresso of blue ostrich feathers.

The trip to England in 1909-1910 and his "studies" at Oxford University were also an endless string of pleasures and fun. Diaghilev's triumphs in London, friendship with Anna Pavlovna, costume balls and dinners entertained the eccentric prince. However, he became famous and, back in the 10s, became a forerunner of Russian fashion in Paris with his outfits.

25 years is a suitable age for marriage. And the prince chooses to wife Princess Irina, the granddaughter of Emperor Alexander !!!.

Felix recalls his first meeting with Irina Romanova: “From that day on I was sure that this was my destiny. , I understood the poverty of my past adventures. Finally, I found that perfect harmony, which is the basis for all true love. "

The wedding of Irina and Felix took place in the Anichkov Palace in St. Petersburg on February 22, 1914 and on March 21, 1915, daughter Irina, the only child of this marriage, was born in Peterhof.

Soon Felix Yusupov participated in the murder of Rasputin, after which he and his family moved to Crimea. When the general evacuation of the Volunteer Army and civilians from the Crimea began under the onslaught of the Reds, the Yusupov couple left Russia for good on April 13, 1919.

The first time in exile, the Yusupovs lived comfortably: in Italy they had a large villa, and the well-known Paris seemed to them a temporary refuge. Trying to arrange new life, The Yusupovs bought a small house in the southeastern suburb of Paris Boulogne, where they later founded fashion house“Irfe.” As the prince himself recalled, the idea of ​​opening his own fashion house came to him upon returning from the United States, where he traveled with his wife in 1924.

The Irfe business was started more than modestly. Teaming up with a group of Russian friends, the Yusupovs rented a room on the Obligado rue - part of the apartment of a Russian artist, where the first models were cut and sewn. As Prince Yusupov recalled, a Russian emigrant worked as a cutter for him. " an eccentric creator of beautiful but hard-to-wear models. " The Yusupovs, not knowing exactly how to take on a new business for them, released the first collection without the necessary advertising. But the opportunity to prove itself presented itself pretty soon. A few months later, in the winter of 1924, a show of models of large Parisian houses was held at the Ritz Hotel on Place Vendôme, culminating in a ball. The models of the Yusupov house, led by his delightful wife, made an indelible impression even on the well-worn Parisian public.

Here is what a French journalist wrote in 1925 about the models of the Irfe house: "Originality, refinement of taste, thoroughness of work and artistic vision of colors immediately put this modest atelier in the rank of large fashion houses." Inspired by the first signs of recognition in Paris, Felix and Irina Yusupovs staged shows at their home in the theater. The opportunity to dress at "that very" Prince Yusupov influenced the imagination of snobbish European and American clients. The success exceeded all expectations, and the Yusupovs rented in the center of Paris, near Place de la Madeleine, a new premises, more advantageously located - not far from the Grands Boulevards, Place de la Concorde and rue de la Paix, where most of the largest fashion houses were located at the beginning of the twentieth century, which raised the reputation of "Irfe". Beginning in 1925, almost all of the staff at the house consisted of Russian émigrés. However, none of the female employees and employees, as Prince Yusupov himself admitted, had no idea about the organization and work of the fashionable enterprise. Fortunately, Felix entrusted the management of the secular relations of his house to an elegant man and a regular at Parisian banquets, the Chilean Marquis Georges de Cuevas. Thanks to him, “Irfe” got so many orders that Felix had to rent the second floor in the same building. ” they were looking for Russian exoticism, fashionable in those years, others admired the styles of dresses.

The fame of "Irfe" grew and strengthened. In Paris, starting from 1925, at first modest advertisements for the house were published, and then drawings of its most successful models. Silk painting determined the style of "Irfe" at that time. In the 1925-1926 season, in the Yusupovs' house, several successful elegant models were created from silk painted in the batik technique. Vogue Magazine Presents Dresses Bat"Very original cut and" Water lilies ", resembling a Russian shirt in shape. The textile pattern and silhouette of the last model clearly looked archaic. And if in the modern era, in the 1900s, it was difficult to do without the image Deco, such botanical research was clearly useless - everything has its time! Nevertheless, the smoothness of the lines of an elongated silhouette contrary to the generally accepted short length and the elegance of the ensembles testified to the exceptional taste of the hostess - Princess Irina Yusupova.

She was famous for her beauty in Paris in the 20s. Tall, slender, she was photographed by many famous photographers of those years in the dresses of the Irfe house “, although she was never a fashion model in the full sense of the word. The Yusupovs' case became very popular and soon three branches were opened. The first, in Touque, a popular resort town in Normandy, was led by Antonina Nesterovskaya, wife of Grand Duke Gabriel Konstantinovich, cousin of Irina Yusupova. She had her own business, the Bury house. The second branch of the Irfe house was a branch in London, at 42 Berkeley Street. It was headed by Mrs. Ansel, an Englishwoman. The Berlin branch was located on the Pariserplatz square in the mansion of the Radziwill princes. There, the whimsical princess Thurn und Taxis was in charge.

Thanks to the success of Irfe, Prince Yusupov began to receive various tempting offers in other spheres of activity. He opened a Yusupov porcelain store, took part in the design of three Parisian restaurants. beaded and glass beads, dresses that have become fashionable thanks to the success of the Kitmir embroidery house, as well as models of a sporty type. The French magazine Vogue describes the winter collection of 1926 in detail: itself no unsuccessful models. In fact, it is the best series of models ever created by this fashion house. The touch of curiosity inherent in its first creations has disappeared completely, the level of technical performance has clearly increased. Prince Yusupov, the founder of "Irfe", brought to his products its refined taste, bright personality, which are unusually successfully combined in the choice of lines and colors. Their sports ensembles deserve special attention, although there are not many of them. One of the most successful ones consists of a red woolen jersey-porridge jumper with a leather sash of the same shade and a chocolate brown-red-brown woolen skirt with the same scarf.Dresses for day and evening outings are graceful and noble in their calm lines ... Inset embellishments break the surface of the fabric, as do tiered shuttlecocks, narrow gathered metal stitching, embroidery and swaying draperies. Dress hems are usually cropped unevenly. The colors are soft and almost always mixed half-tones: blue-green, blued steel, aqua, scarlet prevail. grayish and rusty brown tones. The following fabrics were used: broadcloth, velvet, satin, crepe satin, muslin, gold lace. "

Such an expanded advertisement on the Irfe collection certainly testifies to the respectful attitude towards the Russian fashion house. In 1926, Irfe was the first Russian house to release its own perfume. Following Chanel, Felix and Irina Yusupov named their perfume “Irfe.” They were produced in different scent: For blondes, brunettes and redheads. Felix and Irina took part in the development of the fragrance. All three types of perfumes had a tart spicy oriental flavor... Perfume advertisement depicting rectangular a bottle with a faceted black cap, created by Princess Margaret of Greece.

The cost of production and the lack of real interest in financial affairs among the owners of Irfe, once the richest people, led this fashionable establishment to a financial crisis in 1927. The couple had to sell their mansion in Boulogne and they temporarily moved to the pavilion with a home theater. During the 1927-1928 season, the Irfe house continued to create the required number of simple, well-cut, elegant dresses for new collections. Interest in them did not disappear. The magazines "Vogue", "Paris-elegant" and "Art and Life" reproduced on their pages among the models of the best houses. the models of the next decade, that is, the post-crisis fashion of the 30s.

After the crisis in 1929, having lost most of the capital invested in American banks, having lost a wealthy American clientele, the Irfe house tried to survive in new difficult conditions. the staff of the house, although slightly changed, was still almost entirely Russian.

In 1927, the memoirs of Prince Yusupov "The End of Rasputin" were published. After which a slanderous article was published. Although it was ordered, the fashion house did not go well. Felix himself was busy with receptions, exhibitions and social life, and without a serious daily management of such enterprises are doomed to failure. ”Suffering losses in the house" Irfe ", the prince made a desperate attempt to unite the Russian houses" Irfe "and" Iteb ".

After the most difficult 1930, banks in Paris refused a loan to the once richest prince Yusupov. In 1931, a decision was made to liquidate the Irfe case and its branches.

Only the perfume trade continued for some time.

Completely ruined, the Yusupovs moved into a two-room apartment on the first floor in a house on the rue de la Turrell.

The daughter of Felix and Irina, Irina, married in June 1938 in Rome to Count Sheremetyev.

Princess Irina Yusupova died in Paris on February 26, 1970 at the age of 74.

P.S. The Irfe fashion house was revived in 2008.

Materials used from books by A. Vasiliev and encyclopedias. Http://www.irfe.com/

Tags: irfe, Irfe, Irfe fashion house, Paris, Russians, article, emigration 3 comments - Leave a comment

IRFE is a French fashion house of the early 20th century.

History

Founded in 1924 in Paris and occupied at first the entire first and later the second floors of 10 rue Dufo. Almost all of the staff consisted of friends of the Yusupov couple and other Russian emigrants. In the role of models were not only girls specially hired for this purpose, but also Irina Alexandrovna herself with some of her friends.

The presentation of the first collection took place at the Ritz Hotel on Place Vendome and impressed Parisian society. The popularity of IRFE in the first weeks after the opening was largely due to public interest in Felix Yusupov himself and rumors concerning his person. In his Memoirs, he mentions that the clients “came out of curiosity and for the exotic. One demanded tea from a samovar. Another, an American woman, wanted to see the “prince”, who, according to rumors, had phosphorescent eyes like a predator! ”.

This first successful entrepreneurial experience prompted Felix Yusupov to open, together with Baron Edmond de Zyuilan, a porcelain store in 1925 on Rischpans street adjacent to IRFE.

Later, the prince took part in the decoration of the Parisian restaurant "Maisonette" on the rue de Mont-Tabor, made in the "Russian style", and opened the restaurant "Lido", the interior design of which was the artist Shukhaev.

Boissonnas et Eggler, Public Domain

In 1925, the first IRFE branch was opened in Tuk, the management of which was entrusted to Irina Alexandrovna's cousin, Prince Gavril, and his wife, Antonina Rafailovna Nesterovskaya, a former ballerina of the Imperial Ballet.

Subsequently, two more branches of the fashion house were opened: in London on Berkeley Street, under the leadership of a certain Mrs. Ansil, and in Berlin, in the Radziwills' house on Pariserplatz.

Iskander2K, CC BY-SA 3.0

In 1926, the IRFE house had its own perfume line. It was limited to four fragrances: Blonde for blondes, Brunette for brunettes, Titiane for brown-haired women and Gray Silver for women of elegant age.

In 1931, the liquidation of the IRFE house and all of its branches was announced for economic reasons. The perfumery enterprise lasted several months longer than the atelier.

Currently

After a 90-year hiatus, the fashion house IRFE was brought back to life by its new owner.

The design studio and headquarters of the fashion house are located in Paris on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

After the 1917 revolution, many worthy people left Russia, and Russian fashion houses opened in Paris, which became very popular. After all, after the First World War, everyone was looking for something new, fresh, original. And here in France many Russian aristocratic immigrants appeared, who were both gifted and knew the secrets of haute couture, since in the past they themselves were clients of the richest Parisian houses. In addition, they received a good art education in St. Petersburg, Moscow or Europe.

In home education in Russia, not only in the peasant environment, but also in aristocratic families, girls were taught needlework, often it was embroidery. Therefore, the countesses were also the owners of an innate taste and skills in needlework.

At that time, one of the most famous was the Irfe Fashion House - IRFE, founded by the princely couple - Felix and Irina Yusupov. The house was founded in 1924.

The fashion house quickly gained recognition from wealthy clients who were delighted with its aristocratic founders.

Irina Yusupova, nee Romanova, was the niece of Tsar Nicholas II. She was dazzlingly beautiful. In 1914, Irina married Prince Felix Yusupov, a descendant of one of the oldest and richest families in Russia. The wealth of the Yusupovs surpassed even the royal family.

Felix was known not only for his enormous fortune, but also for his amazing appearance - beautiful thin features, proud posture, and an enigmatic look. He studied at Oxford and often visited the most venerable representatives of Russian families and European aristocracy.

Felix Yusupov grew up in luxurious palaces that belonged to his family, one of which has now become a museum-estate of the Yusupovs in Arkhangelskoye. His mother Zinaida Yusupova, beautiful woman of that time, the portrait that V. Serov left, taught him to love beauty and admire perfection. Princess Zinaida Yusupova was not only beautiful, her education and elegance were widely known. The Yusupovs had an extraordinary collection jewelry containing priceless diamonds.

In 1919, Russia had to leave. They were able to take with them a small part of the inheritance, which consisted of jewelry and paintings. After all, many Russian emigrants who fled from Russia expected to return soon. And only a small part of them were sure that they were leaving their homeland forever. Having sold several paintings, the Yusupovs bought a house in Paris, in which the Irfe studio was then opened.

In the name of the atelier, the first syllables of the owners' names are Irina and Felix. There were also Russian emigrants who, upon arrival in France, found themselves in even more difficult conditions than Irina and Felix. If we compare the situation in which the Yusupovs found themselves in France with that in Russia, then their Parisian life could not be compared with that luxurious life. But that was in the past.

And here the spouses were looking for an opportunity not only to return to their former glory, but to somehow earn money and create conditions for a somewhat bearable life .... The first models of the House were Princess Trubetskaya and, among the employees - Irina's sister-in-law, nee - Countess Vorontsova-Dashkova. And the princess herself more than once tried on the outfits of her House to serve as an advertisement, and this was much more effective for Parisians, because Princess Romanova herself was photographed in dresses of the IRFE house, although she was never a fashion model. Their first collection was admired by the French Vogue: "Before you is a collection that is at the same time a selection, since it does not include any unsuccessful models."

In the beginning, there was a success, even three new branches were opened - in Normandy, London and Berlin. In 1926, a perfume line was created by the house of IRFE. The release of perfumes continued until 1940. In 1931 the House went bankrupt and ceased to exist for many decades. As it turned out, Felix Yusupov, who possesses artistic taste and knowledge, had no business knowledge.

Prince Felix Yusupov died in Paris on September 27, 1967, when he was 80 years old, and Irina Yusupova died there, in Paris, on February 26, 1970, at the age of 74.

Almost 80 years later Olga Sorokina, former model, and today a resident of Paris, decided to revive the House of IRFE. On the eve of her decision, she visited the Yusupovs' granddaughter, Ksenia Sheremeteva-Sfiri, the heiress of the Yusupovs. And since then Olga has been reviving the Russian House in Paris. She is both the owner and the designer of the House, she tries to preserve traditions - aristocratic romanticism, Russian culture, and talk about them in the language of "fashion", introduce them into modern fashion... She pays a lot of attention to accessories - bags, shoes, belts, jewelry.

Much of what Olga has done reminds of Grand Duchess Irina and Prince Felix Yusupov. For example, a clutch, which is decorated with the crown of the princely family of the Yusupovs. It can be truly called Princesse.

Now all pret-a-porter clothes are made in the best French and Italian factories, aiming to return to the ranks of the greatest fashion houses in the world.