Styles of dresses for obese women with patterns. We create a stylish look with our own hands: we sew a dress-shirt at home

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will consider and learn how to build patterns according to several methods that are used when sewing clothes for overweight women... Here, as in the previous lessons, are used step by step instructions construction of drawings of the basis of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first version, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (chest circumference 108 cm), so to speak, for women of average splendor. In the second version, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust 120cm) for women with more curvaceous forms. In both cases, we build the patterns of the basis for the dress. semi-adjacent silhouette, in accordance with this we take into account the increase in free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew the dress.
In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a robe out of cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its time for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step-by-step instructions for building drawings to demonstrate and convince you that in reality everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have not come across anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is more often than not what we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!

SEMI-FIT DRESS FOR MEDIUM FAT WOMEN (size 54 for example)

To build a pattern drawing, you must take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take the correct measurements. The whole result of your efforts will depend on this.
To take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when tilting the head, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen that can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.
It's good if the person you are measuring is wearing thin dress, but better - only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand upright, without tension, i.e. maintain your usual posture. This is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees herself in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements it can distort the real state of affairs. And a well-fitting dress for fitting, in ordinary life will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.
Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed with measurements.

There are some differences in the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

*Name of measurements and legend*	cm	*Taking measurements*
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Гпр)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the horizontal, drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the bulge of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be applied to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the measuring tape should go over the ruler.
Back width (Shs)		Measured horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Semi-girth of the neck (US)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebra, and in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Half-girth of the chest 1st (CrI)		The measuring tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front of the base of the chest.
Semi-girth of the chest 2nd (CrII)		The measuring tape runs horizontally from the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, from the front along the protruding points of the chest.
The size of the groove solution (Vrv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist girth (St)		Measured horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hip (Sat)		Measured horizontally, from behind along the protruding points of the buttocks, from the front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Sprout height (Bp)		Measured along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (VPS)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole width (Spr)		Measure horizontally at hand: from the junction of the arm with the body from the back to the junction of the arm with the trunk from the front. Can be calculated using a ruler placed horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (dB)		Measured from the back from the upper edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (dp)		Measure across the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point where the arm meets the shoulder.
Breast height (Bg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front shoulder height (Vpp)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (Dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measured horizontally between the most prominent points of the chest.
Front width (Shp)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the angles of the armpits.
Width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ШпII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the angles of the armpits at the most prominent points of the chest.
Sleeve length (Dr)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve to elbow (drl)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm girth (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper arm (armpits).
Wrist (hand) girth Oz		Measured by the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest CrII, to the measurement of the half-girth of the thighs Sb - 3 cm and to the measurement of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

Let's start building.
We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with apex at a point R(fig. 1).

Dress length.
From point P, we put down the measured length of the dress. Di(100 cm) and put a point N.

Armhole depth.
From point P downwards we put aside the taken measurement of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr= 21 cm) and put a point G.

Waistline.
From point P downwards we put aside the taken measurement of the back length to the waist (Dst = 39 cm) and put a point T.

Hip line.
From point T down is usually postponed 18 - 19 cm... We'll take the average 18,5 cm and put a point B.

From points G, T, B and H to the left, at right angles, draw horizontal lines: the depth of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.
From the point G to the left, we postpone the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase for free fit) and put a point D1:
ГГ1 = Шс + 0.5 = 19.5 + 0.5 = 20 cm.

Side line distance.
From point D1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 cm and put a point G2:
G1 G2 = Spr: 2 - 1 = (12.5: 2) -1 = 5.25 cm.
From point G2 down we draw a straight line and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips we put dots T2 and B1.

Sprout width.
From point R set aside to the left 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (19cm) a plus 1 cm and put a point Р1:
PP1 = 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Sprout height.
From point P1 upwards we postpone the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout BP (41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point P2:
Р1Р2 = Вр - Дст = 41 - 39 = 2 cm.
Points R and P2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (sprout line).

Back height.
From point T1 put the measured back shoulder height measured upwards VPS (36 cm) and put a point P.

From point D1 postpone up 1/3 segment distance G1P and put a point O... With a compass from a point O we draw to the left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.
From point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(measured shoulder length Dp (13cm) a plus 2cm on a dart), draw the arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). At the intersection of two arcs, put a point P1.
R2 P1 = 13 + 2 = 15cm.
Points R2 and P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back armholes.

Dart on the shoulder of the back.
From point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the measured length of the shoulder Dp and put point B;
P2B = 13: 3 = 4.3cm.
From point B down, draw a vertical line with a length 8 cm and put point B1.

From point V left along the line P2P1 put off 2 cm and put a point IN 2... From point IN 1 through the point IN 2 draw a line length 8 cm and put a point AT 3... Points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Side line backs.
From point T2 set aside to the right 2 cm and put a point T3... Points T3 and G2 connect.

Waist line design.
From point T3 postpone up 1 cm and put a point T4, points T4 and T connect with a smooth curve (see fig. 16).

From point B1 set aside to the left 1/2 C6 (60 + 3 = 63 cm) and the second half-girth of the chest CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4 = 58cm) and put a point B2:
B1, B2 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5cm. Points G4 and B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Back bottom width.
From point N to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the line of the hips (see drawing, this distance BB2) a plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1... Points H1 and B2 H1 postpone up 1cm and put a point H2... Points H2 and N connect with a smooth curve.

Back dart.
Distance YY1 G3.From point G3 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with the waist line we put a point T5, with the line of the hips - point B3... From point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.

Tuck depth.
From point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, we lay aside 1 cm and put dots T6 and T7 AT 4 and B4(see fig. 20).

The construction of the back is completed.

Front
Back bottom line НН1 let's continue to the left. From point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3... From point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 to the left, draw horizontal lines to the intersection with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are designated accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.
From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the half-girth of the chest second CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4) minus back width with an increase (according to drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus the width of the armhole (measured 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:
G4G5 = 58-20-12.5 = 25.5cm.
Through point G5 down we draw a vertical line, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.

Side line distance. From point G5 to the right we set aside half the width of the armhole Spr (12.5) a plus 1 cm and put a point G6:
G5G6 = 12.5: 2 + 1 = 7.25cm.
From point G6 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with horizontal lines we put points T10 and B6.

Front height.
From point T8 upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3

Neck width.
From point P3 to the right we draw a horizontal line and put off on it 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh! (19cm) a plus 1 cm and put a point P4:
R3 R4 = 19: 3 + 1 = 7.3cm.

Neck depth.
From point P3 put down 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (19cm) a plus 1.5 cm and put a point P5:
Р3Р5 = 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8cm.
Points R4 and P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and denote the middle with a dot О1... From point О1 set aside at right angles 1.25 cm and put a point 02 ... Points P5, 02 and P4 we connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.
From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (11 cm) and put a point G7... Points P4 and G7 connect.

Breast height.
From point P4 down, extending the line R4G7, postpone the measured chest height Bg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.

End of dart.
Along the same line from the point C postpone up 2.5 cm and put a point C 1... At this point, the bust dart ends.

The size of the tuck opening.
From point C set aside the taken measure of the size of the tuck solution upwards VRV (12 cm) and put a point W. From point C, as from the center, through the point Have draw an arc to the right.

Opening a dart.
From point Have on the drawn arc we postpone the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and the half-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point Y1.
YY1 = CrII - CrI = 54 - 49 = 5cm You can do this construction with a compass. From point Have, as from the center, with a radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc. Designate the intersection point Y1.
Through points C1 and U1 we draw a straight line, continuing it upward by an amount that is equal to the distance Ts1R4 and put a point P2:
Ts1P2 = Ts1R4.

Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5 extending it upward from the point T9 postpone the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.

Auxiliary point of the armhole.
From point G5 postpone up 1/4 distance G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03 ... Dot 0 3 - check Point... When the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, it is connected to the mark on the sleeve at the point O
From point 0 3 with a compass through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length. From point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to taken measurement shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with a previously constructed arc and put a point P4 ... Points P4 , 0 3 and
G6 we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the front armhole .

Lateral front line.
From point T10 set aside to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11... Points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waist line design.
From point T11 postpone up 1 cm and put a point T12... Points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the hip area.
From point B6 set aside to the right 1/2 the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the hips Sat with an allowance for a free fit (60 + 3 = 63 cm) and the second half-girth of the chest CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4 = 58cm) and put a point B7:
B6 B7 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5cm.
Points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Bottom front width.
From point H3 to the right we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the line of the hips (see drawing, this distance B5B7), a plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4... Points B7 and N4 connect with a straight line. From point H4 postpone up 1 cm and put a point H5.

Elongation of the front.
From point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6... Points N6 and H5 connect with a smooth curve.

Building a dart.
Distance G7G5 halve and dot G8... From point G8 draw a vertical line down, and put dots at the intersection with the waist and hip lines T13 and B8... From point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put dots B5 and B9.

Undercut depth.
From point T13 to the right and to the left we put off by 1.25 cm and put dots T14 and T15, which we connect with points C5 and B9. (See fig. 42)

Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay particular attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If, when checking, you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumference), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the gap of the darts along the waist line.

This pattern drawing for the base of the dress is a guide for creating a wide variety of patterns. Before embarking on modeling, you need to check the pattern, "plant" it on the figure, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after you are fully confident that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking!

I sincerely wish you success!

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Sew a summer dress for obese women Is not an easy task. Patterns of smart and simple dresses for obese women of various styles, designed for sewing with their own hands at home, can be found in abundance on the Internet and specialized literature intended for those who like to sew themselves, without resorting to the services of sewing ateliers.

Experienced craftswomen can make a pattern big dress for those who are full with their own hands, and for beginner seamstresses it is best to choose the simplest pattern from the existing ones, and already use it to cut the fabric into a sundress and DIY sewing of the selected dress model.

Dress patterns for obese women can be found in magazines and books "do it yourself", "we sew ourselves." The main thing is to choose a spectacular, but simple model dresses that can be easily sewn with your own hands without the help of professionals. A dress for overweight women should have such a style that the flaws in the figure of a fat woman are not conspicuous. Dress for a fat woman on the contrary, you need to sew with your own hands in such a way that it emphasizes the dignity of the figure.

In order to sew with your own hands a model of the simplest style, designed for a fat woman, you must first of all decide on the model and pattern.

Sew such an outfit with your own hands it is necessary taking into account the peculiarities of the figure of the one for whom it is intended. In order for the dress to sit well on the woman and hide obvious defects in the figure, it would be a gross mistake to sew the dress without taking measurements and without using a pattern. All obese women different figure, so you shouldn't even think about sewing without taking measurements. Sewing a finished dress with your own hands should be carried out only according to a pattern. Let this be the simplest pattern, the main thing is not to overlook this stage before sewing.

To sew quickly outfit for a lady of solid build, you will need:

Centimeter tape, pen and paper for sizing. It is recommended to take measurements from older women in the morning, since overweight women often suffer from edema, and edema is most pronounced in the evening. In this regard, the dimensions taken in the evening may turn out to be larger than the true ones, this is especially true for the girth of the arms;
Pattern... It can be downloaded from specialized Internet sites. In addition, many home dressmakers have kept the Fashion for the Full magazines since Soviet times. Many of the styles presented there are still relevant today, because the complexion of obese women has not changed since then. These magazines are interesting in that they describe in great detail the process of sewing and cutting fabric, as well as provide useful practical advice;
Material... It is better to purchase material with a margin. Otherwise, it may turn out that there will not be enough fabric in the midst of work. If after sewing there is a sufficient amount of fabric left, it will be possible to sew a scarf, headdress or handbag to match it. And from the remains it will be possible to make an interesting belt, additional pockets and other details;
Needle and thread for the implementation of a preliminary outline;
Sewing machine for sewing;
Buttons or fasteners(zipper, hooks, buttons). A dress for a lady of age should have a comfortable fastener so that a lady of solid build and small stature can easily take off or put on an outfit on her own, without resorting to outside help.

It is very easy to sew a dress for full

has its own characteristics. However, it is quite easy to sew an elegant product, guided by a simple pattern. Sewing does not require much time and effort, provided that the work is organized correctly. Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the basic clothing requirements for ladies of impressive dimensions:

The outfit should in no case sit tightly, tightly. On the contrary, free-cut dresses or robes, so adored by Alla Borisovna Pugacheva, are preferable;
It is preferable to sew an outfit for a fat woman from natural materials, this is especially true in relation to summer dresses... Obese women sweat a lot, especially in extreme heat, so the dress should be made of "breathable" fabric and should allow air to pass through well. Then the skin will breathe freely, and the woman will feel as comfortable as possible even in the summer heat;
When sewing outfits for adorable fatties, you must very carefully choose the colors. In no case should a fabric with transverse stripes be used, otherwise there will be such a visual effect that the woman spreads out even more in breadth. Vertical stripes, on the other hand, visually "stretch" the figure and make it slimmer;
A dress for a fat woman should not be overloaded with small details.

Having familiarized yourself with the basic requirements for a dress for a respectable lady, you can get to work. After taking measurements, you need to transfer the pattern to the fabric and cut it out. Cutting is the most crucial stage of the work, so you need to be very careful. After cutting it is necessary to carry out a basting. For basting, it is best to use the classic needle-forward stitch as it is the easiest to use.

The sequence of actions will be as follows: first, the main part of the dress is sewn, consisting of the front, back and skirt, then the sleeves of the desired length are sewn, and then the sleeves are sewn into the finished dress. If desired, the outfit is decorated with an elegant collar, cuffs, belt, pockets or frills, ruffles, flounces along the hem. It all depends on the style and its purpose: office, romantic walks, or a free comfortable dress for wearing at home.

If an evening or festive toilet is being sewn, it can be decorated in any way: embroidery with beads or floss threads, decorative elements, crocheted, sequins, beads, lace. The main thing is to have a sense of proportion. so that a respectable lady does not look vulgar in this dress.

Sewing a dress for a full lady a little more difficult than for a slender beauty, because a solid figure requires an individual approach.

It is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of a woman, but also the individual characteristics of the figure: some of the fat ladies especially have a tummy, some have the main fat on their hips, and some ladies have relatively slim figure but very full hands. All these features must be taken into account when choosing the style of the dress.

If the lady has full hips, but a rather slender waist, the dress should emphasize the waist line. Ladies with full arms are not recommended outfits with short sleeves, even in summer, it is desirable that the sleeve is longer than others. Ladies with full hips are advised to choose a style with a long fluffy skirt, hiding the completeness of problem areas. For women with a solid tummy, dresses resembling robes are recommended. For overweight ladies who have rather slender legs, dresses resembling an ancient Roman tunic are suitable. It all depends on the individual characteristics of the figure. What suits one fat woman will look ridiculous and ridiculous on another.

Full ladies it is not recommended to abuse accessories and decorative details of clothing. All accessories and decorative details must be tastefully selected and it is very important keep the correct proportions... So, small jewelry or “drop” earrings will look ridiculous on a full lady, but one large piece of jewelry, for example, a massive ring or an impressive necklace, will be a great addition to an evening dress made by yourself. Full ladies need to be much more attentive than slender ones, to monitor their style and choose clothes according to individual characteristics complexions.

To determine the most suitable dress styles, a plump lady can act by trial and error, or she can attend shows. fashion collections for women of solid build, read specialized magazines. Attend creative workshops of famous fashion designers and master classes. With the right approach to the choice of wardrobe, the apparent flaws of the figure can well be made outstanding advantages. But this will take a little work.

Every season in the fashion world there are things that are gaining popularity at lightning speed. In 2017, the trend was the shirt dress. Long elegant or short playful, it always looks great and is versatile. Many people call it the novelty of the season, but in fact, this thing has a long history. Over the century, short and long shirt dresses have appeared in different interpretations of the most famous fashion designers. But this thing entered the fashion world thanks to a real woman legend who created her own elegant style who conquered the whole world.

In this article, needlewomen will find detailed instructions for themselves on which you can sew a dress-shirt with your own hands. The dress pattern is very easy to build, and the assembly and processing of the cut details does not take much time.

A bit of history

A century ago, Coco Chanel first offered the fashionistas of 1916 an original dress. In the days of corsets and crinolines, wearing a comfortable shirt dress for women was a real challenge of our time. The main details of the novelty were borrowed from men's clothing... In the post-war period, thanks to the trend military uniform, the pattern of the shirt dress has changed a little: patch pockets, shoulder straps, a strap in the center of the shelf and a collar have been added. It was during this period, due to its practicality, that it was at the peak of its popularity.

Measurements for the template

It is best to build a pattern for a shirt dress on paper or construction film. Constructions are not performed directly on the fabric. The exception is models with a cut-off skirt, the details of which are built directly on the canvas.

To build a template, measurements are first taken:

the volume of the neck, chest, waist, hips;
shoulder and back width;
chest height;
front and back to the waist;
length of the product.

Base grid - the basis of the template

For beginners, the most difficult part of a shirt dress pattern will be the armhole and sleeve. The rest of the cut details will not be difficult. But if you take the measurements correctly and transfer them to the workpiece, then the sleeve will ideally fit in the armhole without defects in fit.

The drawing of the workpiece begins by drawing a rectangle. One side should be equal to the length of the product, the other - half the chest circumference + 2 cm for a free fit. Next, the lines of the auxiliary grid are marked in the rectangle.

Horizontal lines:

At chest height.
In accordance with the measurements of the length of the front and back to the waist.
At the level of the hips, which are 20-23 cm below the waist.

Verticals:

From the chest line to the upper border of the rectangle, departing from the larger side of the rectangle half the measurement of the back width +0.5 cm.
From the resulting vertical, a distance equal to the half-girth of the chest, divided by four + 2 cm, recedes.
Between the two drawn verticals, they find the middle along the chest line and lower the perpendicular down, which will serve as a reference point for the side seam.

After all the manipulations on the shirt dress pattern drawing, a base mesh will be ready, on which the level of the chest and armholes, the level of the waist, hips, as well as the zone of the back, armholes and front shelf and the border of the front and back along the side seam are determined.

Drawing the neck

The neck is marked from the upper corners of the rectangle on its smaller side at the top of the drawing. The construction of the neckline on the back is done as follows:

Divide the half-girth of the neck by three and add half a centimeter.
This value is measured from the upper corner of the rectangle on the side where half of the back width measurement has already been marked, and a point is put.
The edge of the neck is raised by an amount equal to the half-girth of the neck, divided by 10 plus 0.8 cm.
from the resulting point, draw a rounded neck of the back.

The front throat is slightly different. Here you will need to calculate the following values:

Building the shoulder and armhole

Constructing the shoulder cuts is as easy as constructing the neckline. Here you will not need to calculate the size of the back dart, since you can sew a shirt dress without darts, unlike other women's products. The construction of the shoulder and armhole is done as follows:

The shoulder line should start at the top of the neckline and go obliquely: for sloping shoulders, they make a slope of 3.5 cm, for normal ones - 2.5 cm, and for high ones - 1.5 cm.
The armhole begins to be drawn from the edge of the shoulder cut to the auxiliary verticals of the base mesh of the armhole zone. On them, 1/3 of their size is marked from the chest line, it is to this point that the armhole is lowered and smoothly rounded to the midpoint, from which the border of the side seam runs.
The shoulder seam of the front should be underestimated by 2 cm more, therefore, two more auxiliary horizontals are outlined, which will help to build the cut correctly.
From the extreme point of the shoulder, similar to the back, draw an armhole.

Side seam

Depending on the model of the dress, the side seam can be beveled by a few centimeters to the waist line and smoothly bring the line to the hips, this will make the silhouette fit. Or you can leave the cut straight and then arrange a belt or drawstring with an elastic band. In either case, along the line of the hips from the lateral vertical boundaries, they measure half the measurement of the hip girth +2 cm for free fit and put points through which the lines of the seams are drawn.

Sleeve

Perhaps the most difficult element in a dress is the sleeve. Of course, you can refuse it if it is a summer version of the product. But how to sew a dress, shirt with sleeves, and most importantly, how to build its template? To begin with, you will need the following measurements:

armhole cut length, which can be measured directly from the template;
upper arm girth;
wrist circumference + 2 cm;
the length of the sleeve.

The construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

Draw a vertical line equal to the length of the sleeve.
From the top point of the vertical, the length of the armhole is plotted, divided by three and minus 2 cm.
From this point, at a right angle to the left and right, lay on ½ part of the girth of the arm.
From the extreme points of the horizontal to the top of the vertical, lines are drawn that are closed in a triangle.
At the bottom point to the right and to the left, lay ½ part of the girth of the wrist, taking into account an allowance of 2 cm.
The sides of the previously obtained triangle are divided in half, dots are put and the resulting parts are again divided in half and dots are put.
starting from left to right, they begin to build an okat:
- the first point is brought into the triangle by 2 cm;
- the second is left unchanged;
- the third is taken out of the triangle by 1.5 cm;
- the fourth is the top of the okat, it remains in place;
- the fifth - taken out for the triangle by 1.5 cm;
- the sixth remains unchanged;
- seventh - brought inside by 1 cm;
- the obtained points are smoothly connected with a line and an okat is obtained: on the left - the area of connection with the front, on the right - with the back;
- the horizontal lines of the drawing are connected by straight lines.

The pattern of an elegant outfit is ready.

In the wardrobe of every fashionista, there must be a light weightless dress that is ideal for the stuffy summer days... A shirt dress is in trend this season. Such an outfit can be perfect both for a trip to the beach and for an evening friendly get-together in a cafe. Sewing a shirt dress with your own hands will be much cheaper than buying a ready-made one. In addition, the likelihood of meeting someone in the same, hand-sewn outfit is reduced to zero, since the dress will be made in a single copy. How the pattern of a shirt dress is built and what material to choose for the product will be discussed in this article.

Selection of fabric and accessories

With today's variety of materials, there is room for imagination. Batiste, cotton, jeans, chintz, linen, staple, viscose are ideal options for natural fabrics for hot days. A variety of colors, prints and textures will allow you to create an original, austere, long shirt dress, a girlish playful image with an abundance of frills and lace, or a sporty variation.

As for the accessories, there is also a huge selection of buttons, sewn-on buttons, various decorative stripes, laces, stitching threads and whole beads.

Model selection

In order not to get lost in a huge variety of materials, you should decide on the model in advance. If this sports option, then jeans, cotton, linen and a staple with a calm print or without it at all are what you need. A denim shirt dress can be versatile. Even if decorated with beads and rhinestones, it will go great with moccasins, sneakers or high-heeled sandals.

Perfectly draped and flowing viscose and staple are perfect for sewing a long outfit. Open shoulders and a decorative design of the back with crisscross stripes or a sewn openwork insert add chic.

No less interesting will look a simple cambric or denim shirt dress with a belt without additional decorative elements and even without tackle darts.

Building a pattern

To make a template, you will need construction tape or paper, a ruler, a measuring tape, scissors, a marker or a pen. The construction of a dress pattern begins with taking measurements from the figure. You will need basic girths: chest, waist, hips. You will also need to measure your back width, chest height, back and front height to waist and shoulder width.

The construction of a dress pattern can be divided into several stages:

Creates a basic drawing grid.
Drawing the main lines of the front and back.
Build sleeves at the armhole.

Creating a base mesh

A vertical line is drawn on paper or construction film, equal to the length of the product from the shoulder to the bottom of the hem. Perpendicular to it, mark the line of the shoulder, chest (according to the measurement of the height of the chest), waist (according to the measurement of the height of the back and front to the waist), hips (below the waistline by 20 cm) and the bottom of the product.

The perpendiculars should line up with the chest girth. At the end of the horizontal lines, a second vertical is laid. Next, go to the chest line and lay 1/2 measure "back width", from the point raise the perpendicular to the shoulder line. Then determine the width of the armhole. For this, the half-girth of the chest is divided by four and 2 cm is added. The resulting value is laid down next to the point marked earlier (1/2 back width). A perpendicular is also raised from the resulting mark. Thus, there are three zones on the mesh: the back, the armhole and the shelf.

Drawing the main lines of the front and back

Once the base mesh for the template has been defined, you can fine-tune the fine details in the drawing. Along the line of the shoulders from the left and right corners, 7-8 cm recede and designate the neck. For the back (at the left vertical) it is deepened by 3 cm, and for the shelf (at the right vertical) by 7-8 cm. The pattern of a shirt dress can be built without darts on the back and chest, so you can immediately proceed to the design of the shoulder seam and armholes. To do this, draw a line from the point of the neck, equal to the "shoulder width" measure. It is underestimated from the original mark by about 1.5 cm. Further, on the chest line in the armhole area, they find the middle, and on the vertical raised from the mark "1/2 back width" mark 1/3 of the armhole height and draw through these points with a smooth line armhole from the back.

The shoulder line from the side of the chest should be 2 cm lower, therefore, before laying it, determine the border where it should go. Also, at the level of 1/3 of the vertical, a point is placed along which the armhole for the front is drawn to the middle of the armhole zone on the chest line.

Next, go to the waist line. First, a perpendicular is lowered to it from the midpoint of the armhole zone, then 2-3 cm recede from the resulting perpendicular on the waist line and a side cut is drawn. As a rule, the pattern of a shirt dress is built without tuck darts, but only with slight smooth bends along the side cut.

The perpendicular from the middle of the armhole zone is extended to the hip line. Afterwards, horizontally from the left and right verticals, put ½ measurements "hip girth" + 1 cm for a free fit. Then the side cut is finalized. Usually, the parts of the front and back in the drawing are on top of each other, therefore, when cutting the template from one of the sides, you will need to glue the cut part at the level of the hips.

Constructing sleeves at the armhole

The shirt dress pattern can be with or without sleeves. It is built quite simply if you know a few basic rules. Using the lower border of the armhole, draw a circle, which is raised at the top by 1.5 cm.Further, along the chest line in the center, mark the girth of the arm + 4 cm and introduce the sleeve ridge to the extreme points of the delayed segment. The sleeve length can be any.

The constructed pattern can be used for sewing any dress. To make it look like a shirt, you should make it with button fasteners along the midline of the front. The main thing is not to forget to give an allowance for the design of loops and sewing on buttons.