Pattern pdf dress case 56 size. Sheath dress: pattern building and ready-made options

A laconic sheath dress came into fashion at the beginning of the last century and has not left the ladies' wardrobe ever since. Its main feature is the cut, "outlining" the figure and tapering downward. "Cases" most often have a round neckline and no sleeves. However, over the long years of its existence, the dress has changed and become more practical. So, today, the style of a sheath dress with a sleeve is especially popular, the pattern of which is presented in this article. Such a model, if paired with the appropriate accessories and shoes, is equally well suited for work, evening out and everyday wear. By the way, "cases" were the favorite outfits of such famous women as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy.

In addition, a sheath dress is a basic pattern that can be used to model other dress options in the future. Today I propose to study how to build a dress pattern according to the figure, as well as ready-made patterns and several drawings with calculations.

How to build a pattern for a sheath dress

If you decide to build a dress pattern on your own, then below you can enlarge the images with a detailed guide from the book "Courses of cutting and sewing at home."

Ready-made patterns for a sheath dress

Well, if you have no desire to mess around with pattern modeling, I suggest downloading ready-made versions of dresses with and without sleeves. The sizes are indicated according to the European table of sizes (see below).

I also offer another version of a sleeveless sheath dress for round yoke... This pattern comes in 3 sizes - 38, 40 and 42.

And a few more drawings of patterns for a sheath dress with ready-made calculations (the dimensions in the caption to the photo are indicated in the size table above):

Drawing of a pattern for a sheath dress (according to the table of sizes 40 size)

Where else to get a pattern for a sheath dress

The wonderful RedCafe program has a basic set of patterns. By choosing a dress model, you can build a pattern for your individual parameters. I wrote in more detail about how to use the RedCafe clothes editor.

How to sew a sheath dress: a quick guide

After your pattern is ready, you can safely transfer it to the fabric and start sewing!

What you need:

Dress fabric 2 m * 1.5 m;
Lining fabric for 1.4 * 1.4m;
One hidden zipper
Specialist. sewing machine foot.

Allowances:

Leave 1.5 cm of seam allowance on all parts, including the lining. Remember to add 4 cm to the hem as well.

Step-by-step work progress:

Step 1. Sew darts on the front and back.

Step 2. Sew the zipper along the middle sections of the back. Next, sew the middle seam from the top of the cut to the zipper.

Step 3. Sew shoulder and side seams.

Step 4. Stitch on the dart lining. Sew the middle seam along the back of the lining from the bottom of the zipper opening to the bottom. Sew the lining to the dress.

Step 5. Stitch the darts on the sleeves. Sew seams on the sleeves. Press the seam allowances to hem the hem of the sleeves inside out and sew by hand.

Step 6. Sew on the sleeves. Iron the seam allowances along their edges.

Step 7. Press hem allowance inside out and sew by hand. Hem the hem on the lining. Please note that the lining should be 2 cm shorter than the sheath dress itself.

Pattern-base for full figures, for sizes 50-58, It is built according to the same method as But differs in some specific features: allowances and the line of the shoulder seam, associated with the fact that a magnificent bust and, very often, a full waist and belly, require other allowances for a free fit. And should be measured especially carefully.

Therefore, in this article, I decided to place a table with the real measurements of my clients, sizes 50-58, with the types of shapes "apple", "pear", " hourglass". They will help you build your own custom base pattern.

Measurement table 50-58 sizes.

Features of calculations for pattern-base sizes 50-58.

Rule 1.

If for 44-50 sizes 0.5 cm is added to the half of the chest girth, then for patterns for full figures 54-58 - 0.7-1 cm. This is done so that the side seam does not move towards the front.

Rule 2.

When constructing a front pattern of 54-58 sizes, due to the large size of the dart - 11-15 cm, the line of the shoulder seam can be drawn at a significant slope. Because of this, the front armhole is small and short for this size. It is very difficult to sew a sleeve into it correctly and beautifully.

Therefore, when I build a pattern, I usually check the line of inclination of the shoulder with a control measure - the height of the oblique chest - VGk. Even if it coincides with the drawn shoulder line, I "raise" the shoulder seam by 1-1.5 cm - the drawing on the lower collage. And, as a rule, on fitting, if we sew a model of a dress with sleeves, we deepen the armhole by 1.5-3 cm for blouses and dresses, and for jackets - by 2-4 cm

Rule 3.

For full apple-shaped figures, the side seam line will typically pass through the points at the intersection of the chest, hips and reference lines. And the width of the side and central darts is only 2-2.5 cm

For hourglass and pear silhouette figures, it is more difficult to build a base pattern because of the large difference in the size of the chest, waist and hips. For example, if the exhaust gas is 110 cm, From - 90 cm, and OB - 118, the width of the darts is 3 cm

As a result, a rather sharp bend of the side seam is obtained, which is difficult to iron when sewing a dress or jacket. Therefore, it is preferable to sew models with a central seam on the back, and redistribute the width of the darts. If the deflection along this seam is made 1 cm, then the side darts can be reduced by 0.5-0.7 cm each. And I prefer to sew a zipper, when the style allows it, into the center seam of the back. If the model of a dress with a skirt is "half sun", then the zipper is sewn into the side seam.

Calculations for pattern-base sizes 50-58.

The allowance for a free fit to the chest girth, for a dress and blouse, even an adjacent silhouette, it is better to make 7-8 cm, for a semi-adjacent one and for a jacket - 9-10 cm

Calculation of measurements for size 50.

OT - 78 or OT - 84

(OG + 8): 2 = 108: 2 = 54: 2 = 27

For the front pattern, add 0.5, for the back pattern, subtract 0.5 cm

OG along the front chest line - 27.5

OG back - 26.5

Calculation of the size of the darts.

From = 78 cm + 4 = 82: 2 = 41

From the calculated measurement of half of the OG with an allowance, we subtract the obtained value of half the waist circumference with allowances: 54 - 41 = 13: 4 = 3.2 - for the hourglass silhouette figure.

With OT = 84, the size of the darts is: 84 + 4 = 88: 2 = 44

54 - 44 = 10 cm: 4 = 2.5 cm - for the figure of the silhouette "apple".

Calculation of the size of the hip line.

(OB + 4): 2 = 104 + 4 = 108: 2 = 54

For a figure with such measurements, the points of the front chest line and the hip line are located on the same reference line.

If OB = 110 cm, then after calculating: (110 + 4 = 114): 2 = 57, the difference between half the chest girth with allowances and half the hip girth with allowances would be 3 cm.

57 - 54 = 3: 2 = +1.5 cm - this value must be set aside from the control line on the pattern of the front and back along the thigh line. For the front - to the left, for the back - to the right.

Calculation of measurements for a pattern of 52 sizes.

OG = (104 + 8): 2 = 112: 2 = 56: 2 = 28

0.5 = 28.5 - in front, - 0.5 = 27.5 - back

FROM = (92 + 4): 2 = 48

Darts = 56 - 48 = 8: 4 = 2 cm - each dart

OB = (112 + 4): 2 = 116: 2 = 58

58 - 56 = 2 cm: 2 - + 1 cm along the hip line from the reference line.

Calculation of measurements for size 54.

OG = (108 + 8): 2 = 116: 2 = 58: 2 = 29

OG front = 29 + 0.7 = 29.7

OG back = 29 - 0.7 = 28.3

From = (94 + 4): 2 = 98: 2 = 49

Darts = 58 - 49 = 11: 4 = 2.7

OB = (116 + 4): 2 = 120: 2 = 60 - 58 = 2: 2 = +1 cm from the control lines along the thigh line

Calculation of measurements for size 58.

OG = (116 + 8): 2 = 124: 2 = 62: 2 = 31

OG front = 31 + 1 = 32

OG back 31 - 1 = 30

FROM = (98 + 4) = 2 = 102: 2 = 51

62 - 51 = 11: 4 = 2.7 cm - darts

OB = (122 + 4): 2 = 126: 2 = 63

63 - 62 = 1 cm: 2 = + 0.5 cm from the point of the reference line on the hip line.

In order to build a pattern-basis for a straight silhouette dress, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front and back, from a point on the hip line, to the required length of the dress.

Using such a pattern, if it is built accurately and checked, you will be able to model and sew any of the models.

For a trapeze dress - continue the control line to the required length and set the point of inclination of the side seam at a distance of 12-22 cm to the left of it - for the front half of the pattern. For the pattern of the back, respectively, to the right. This distance can be increased up to 25 cm, but no more, especially if the length of the dress is up to the knee. Side seams will simply "fold" inward, and the dress will look sloppy.

If you want a more flared dress, then choose a model with an undercut under the bust and a half-sun cut or a trapezoid cut along the bias. You can choose a model of a dress with reliefs - each detail changes along the bottom line to the required width.

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will consider and learn how to build patterns according to several methods that are used when sewing clothes for overweight women... Here, as in the previous lessons, are used step by step instructions construction of drawings of the basis of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first version, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (chest circumference 108 cm), so to speak, for women of average splendor. In the second version, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust 120cm) for women with more curvaceous forms. In both cases, we build the patterns of the basis for the dress. semi-adjacent silhouette, in accordance with this we take into account the increase in free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.

You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew the dress.

In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a robe out of cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its time for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.

We use exactly step-by-step instructions for building drawings to demonstrate and convince you that in reality everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have never encountered anything like it before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is more often than not what we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!

SEMI-FIT DRESS FOR MEDIUM FAT WOMEN (size 54 for example)

To build a pattern drawing, you must take the following measurements:

To take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when tilting the head, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen that can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.

It's good if the person you are measuring is wearing thin dress, but better - only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand upright, without tension, i.e. maintain your usual posture. This is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees herself in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements it can distort the real state of affairs. And a well-fitting dress for fitting, in ordinary life will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.

Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed with measurements.

There are some differences in the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

*Name of measurements and symbols*	cm	*Taking measurements*
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Гпр)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the horizontal, drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the bulge of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be applied to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the measuring tape should go over the ruler.
Back width (Shs)		Measured horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Semi-girth of the neck (US)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebra, and in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Half-girth of the chest 1st (CrI)		The measuring tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front of the base of the chest.
Semi-girth of the chest 2nd (CrII)		The measuring tape runs horizontally from the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, from the front along the protruding points of the chest.
The size of the groove solution (Vrv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist girth (St)		Measured horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hip (Sat)		Measured horizontally, from behind along the protruding points of the buttocks, from the front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Sprout height (Bp)		Measured along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (VPS)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole width (Spr)		Measure horizontally at hand: from the junction of the arm with the body from the back to the junction of the arm with the trunk from the front. Can be calculated using a ruler placed horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (dB)		Measured from the back from the upper edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (dp)		Measure across the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point where the arm meets the shoulder.
Breast height (Bg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front shoulder height (Vpp)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (Dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measured horizontally between the most prominent points of the chest.
Front width (Shp)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the angles of the armpits.
Width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ШпII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the angles of the armpits at the most prominent points of the chest.
Sleeve length (Dr)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve to elbow (drl)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm girth (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper arm (armpits).
Wrist (hand) girth Oz		Measured by the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For free fitting, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest CrII, to the measurement of the half-girth of the thighs Sb - 3 cm and to the measurement of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

Let's start building.

We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with apex at a point R(fig. 1).

Dress length.

From point P, we put down the measured length of the dress. Di(100 cm) and put a point N.

Armhole depth.

From point P downwards we put aside the taken measurement of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr= 21 cm) and put a point G.

Waistline.

From point P downwards we put aside the taken measurement of the back length to the waist (Dst = 39 cm) and put a point T.

Hip line.

From point T down is usually postponed 18 - 19 cm... We'll take the average 18,5 cm and put a point B.

From points G, T, B and H to the left, at right angles, draw horizontal lines: the depth of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.

From the point G to the left, we postpone the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase for free fit) and put a point D1:

ГГ1 = Шс + 0.5 = 19.5 + 0.5 = 20 cm.

Side line distance.

From point D1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 cm and put a point G2:

G1 G2 = Spr: 2 - 1 = (12.5: 2) -1 = 5.25 cm.

From point G2 down we draw a straight line and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips we put dots T2 and B1.

Sprout width.

From point R set aside to the left 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (19cm) a plus 1 cm and put a point Р1:

PP1 = 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Sprout height.

From point P1 upwards we postpone the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout BP (41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point P2:

Р1Р2 = Вр - Дст = 41 - 39 = 2 cm.

Points R and P2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (sprout line).

Back height.

From point T1 put the measured back shoulder height measured upwards VPS (36 cm) and put a point NS.

From point D1 postpone up 1/3 segment distance G1P and put a point O... With a compass from a point O we draw to the left through the point NS arc.

Shoulder length.

From point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(measured shoulder length Dp (13cm) a plus 2cm on a dart), draw the arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12).

At the intersection of two arcs, put a point P1.

R2 NS1 = 13 + 2 = 15cm.

Points R2 and NS1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back armholes.

Dart on the shoulder of the back.

From point R2 left on the line R2 NS1 set aside 1/3 of the measured length of the shoulder Dp and put point B:

P2B = 13: 3 = 4.3cm.

From point B down, draw a vertical line with a length 8 cm and put point B1.

From point V left along the line P2P1 put off 2 cm and put a point IN 2.

From point IN 1 through the point IN 2 draw a line length 8 cm and put a point AT 3.

Points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Side line backs.

From point T2 set aside to the right 2 cm and put a point T3.

Points T3 and G2 connect.

Waist line design.

From point T3 postpone up 1 cm and put a point T4, points T4 and T connect with a smooth curve (see fig. 16).

From point B1 set aside to the left 1/2 C6 (60 + 3 = 63 cm) and the second half-girth of the chest CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4 = 58cm) and put a point B2:

B1, B2 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5cm.

Points G4 and B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Back bottom width.

From point N to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the line of the hips (see drawing, this distance BB2) a plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1.

Points H1 and B2 connect with a straight line.

From point H1 postpone up 1cm and put a point H2.

Points H2 and N connect with a smooth curve.

Back dart.

Distance YY1 G3.

From point G3 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with the waist line we put a point T5, with the line of the hips - point B3.

From point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.

Tuck depth.

From point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, we lay aside 1 cm and put dots T6 and T7 AT 4 and B4(see fig. 20).

The construction of the back is completed.

Front

Back bottom line НН1 let's continue to the left.

From point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3.

From point H3 draw a vertical line up.

From points G2, T2, B2 to the left, draw horizontal lines to the intersection with the vertical.

The points of intersection with the vertical line are designated accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.

From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the half-girth of the chest second CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4) minus back width with an increase (according to drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus the width of the armhole (measured 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:

G4G5 = 58-20-12.5 = 25.5cm.

Through point G5 down we draw a vertical line, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.

Side line distance. From point G5 to the right we set aside half the width of the armhole Spr (12.5) a plus 1 cm and put a point G6:

G5G6 = 12.5: 2 + 1 = 7.25cm.

From point G6 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with horizontal lines we put points T10 and B6.

Front height.

From point T8 upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3

Neck width.

From point P3 to the right we draw a horizontal line and put off on it 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh! (19cm) a plus 1 cm and put a point P4:

R3 R4 = 19: 3 + 1 = 7.3cm.

Neck depth.

From point P3 put down 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (19cm) a plus 1.5 cm and put a point P5:

Р3Р5 = 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8cm.

Points R4 and P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and denote the middle with a dot О1.

From point О1 set aside at right angles 1.25 cm and put a point 02 .

Points P5, 02 and P4 we connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.

From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (11 cm) and put a point G7.

Points P4 and G7 connect.

Breast height.

From point P4 down, extending the line R4G7, postpone the measured chest height Bg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.

End of dart.

Along the same line from the point C postpone up 2.5 cm and put a point C 1.

At this point, the bust dart ends.

The size of the tuck opening.

From point C set aside the taken measurement of the size of the tuck solution upwards VRV (12 cm) and put a point W.

From point C, as from the center, through the point Have draw an arc to the right.

Opening a dart.

From point Have on the drawn arc we postpone the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and the half-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point Y1.

YY1 = CrII - CrI = 54 - 49 = 5cm

You can do this construction with a compass. From point Have, as from the center, with a radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc.

Designate the intersection point Y1.

Through points C1 and U1 we draw a straight line, continuing it upward by an amount that is equal to the distance Ts1R4 and put a point P2:

Ts1P2 = Ts1R4.

Front shoulder height.

On a straight line T9G5 extending it upward from the point T9 postpone the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.

Auxiliary point of the armhole.

From point G5 postpone up 1/4 distance G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03 ... Point 0 3 - check Point... When the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, it is connected to the mark on the sleeve at the point O

From point 0 3 with a compass through a point NS3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length.

From point NS2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to taken measurement shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with a previously constructed arc and put a point NS4 .

Points NS4 , 0 3 and G6 we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the front armhole .

Lateral front line.

From point T10 set aside to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11.

Points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waist line design.

From point T11 postpone up 1 cm and put a point T12.

Points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the hip area.

From point B6 set aside to the right 1/2 the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the hips Sat with an allowance for a free fit (60 + 3 = 63 cm) and the second half-girth of the chest CrII with an allowance for a free fit (54 + 4 = 58cm) and put a point B7:

B6 B7 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5cm.

Points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Bottom front width.

From point H3 to the right we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the line of the hips (see drawing, this distance B5B7), a plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4... Points B7 and N4 connect with a straight line.

From point H4 postpone up 1 cm and put a point H5.

Elongation of the front.

From point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6... Points N6 and H5 connect with a smooth curve.

Building a dart.

Distance G7G5 halve and dot G8... From point G8 draw a vertical line down, and put dots at the intersection with the waist and hip lines T13 and B8... From point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put dots B5 and B9.

Undercut depth.

From point T13 to the right and to the left we put off by 1.25 cm and put dots T14 and T15, which we connect with points C5 and B9. (See fig. 42)

Construction completed.

But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay particular attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If, when checking, you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumference), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the gap of the darts along the waist line.

This pattern drawing for the base of the dress is a guide for creating a wide variety of patterns. Before embarking on modeling, you need to check the pattern, "plant" it on the figure, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after you are fully confident that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking!

I sincerely wish you success!

Dear craftswomen! The editorial office of the site receives a huge number of letters with a request to develop and publish as many fashionable and elegant models as possible on big sizes... We understand that it is difficult to buy a beautiful and quality clothes on non-standard figure, and we try to take into account all your wishes and fulfill them. However, in order to model the desired style of a dress or blouse, a basic pattern or base of the dress is required, and it is with its construction that you need to start. Needless to say, the request to publish basic pattern for download on big size- a champion among your requests? Today we are happy to fulfill the desire of many of our readers, women of luxurious forms, we publish a basic pattern for download in sizes 52-54-56, and we hope that this will help you create clothes that fit perfectly to the figure, and for some, it may become new. stage of the creative path.

In addition to the patterns for the back and front, we have also developed a single-seam sleeve pattern, so that using this pattern you can sew not only dresses, but also blouses and even light jackets.

Basic dress pattern for sizes 52-54-56

But you will do the adjustment a little later, and only if it is required. And first you need to download and print the pattern.

How to print a basic pattern

We have prepared for you two options for printing patterns - you can download and print the drawing in A0 and A4 format. The A0 format will allow you to print the pattern in life size and you don't have to glue the sheets together. There are printers of this large format in copy centers of any city.

In A4 format, the image is divided into 16 sheets, you can print it on any printer, and then glue the sheets into a solid pattern using registration marks. Some printers are capable of compressing the image (if the appropriate settings are set), and to prevent this from happening, we placed a test square with a side length of 100 mm on the pattern (see Fig. 1, mark 1).

IMPORTANT! After gluing the pattern, be sure to check the length of the test square!

After the pattern is printed, select your size in the upper left corner (Fig. 1, mark 2). Each size has its own line type. Circle the pattern along the contour as shown in fig. 1 on tracing paper and proceed to check the pattern.

IMPORTANT! An additional tackle tuck on the front half of the drawing (left) should be done only when additional fitting is required.

Rice. 1. How to reshoot the basic dress pattern

How to check the basic pattern

Keep your measurements handy to check your pattern. Take measurements according to the pattern:

Y1 = Measure Back Waist Length (DTS)
Y2 = Measure Front Waist Length (Accident)
X1 + X2 = Measurement Chest circumference with an increase of about 3-4 cm
X3 + X4 + X5 + X6 = Measurement of the waist with an increase of about 2-3 cm
X7 + X8 = measurement of the hip circumference with an increase of about 2-3 cm
Z1 = Measure the circumference of the arm with an increase of about 3-4 cm.

Rice. 2. How to check the basic pattern

How to download a basic dress pattern for sizes 52-56

To download patterns in A0 or A4 format, click on the appropriate button. Instructions for working with patterns are given earlier in this article.

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