How to make leather shoes. Shoe pattern

You will need

• - well-crafted upper leather
• - thick leather for the sole
• - felt or felt
• - strong threads
• - awl
• - two needles
• - universal glue
• - tape measure
• - several sheets of paper
• - pencil

Instructions

Take measurements. You need to know the length, the width of the foot, the height of the instep, the girth of the leg through and the highest point of the instep, the protrusion of the heel, the width and height of the heel, the distance from the end thumb to the instep, the distance from the end of the big toe to the lower leg, height. Place your foot on a piece of paper and circle the foot. Cut back from the 5 mm line.

Make a sweep. To do this, circle the template on another sheet of paper. Connect the most prominent points of the heel and toe. This will be the center line, plot the distance from the end of your thumb to your lower leg and draw a perpendicular across this point to both sides. Mark the intersection lines of the perpendicular with the side slices. This will be the ascent line. Draw the heel line parallel to it through the most convex point of the heel. From the intersections of the instep line and the cuts of the insole, set aside the height of the side walls. Set aside from the instep line 6 cm towards the toe on both sides of the insole and through these points outline the contour of the toe.

From the bulging point of the heel, set half the width of the heel to one side and the other. From the same point, set aside the height of the side walls. Draw a line parallel to the instep line. Calculate the nasal insert. To do this, circle the insole on a separate sheet. Measure the insole from the fullest part of the toe to the instep line. Set aside 5-6 cm from the intersection of the lift line in each direction and through these points circle the bow. Make the tongue as you wish. Round all right corners and circle the pattern along the outer line. Cut out the pattern and transfer it to the leather. Mark the line of the sole and insole and mark the joints with dots at equal distances. Poke holes with an awl.

Draw a line for the sole and insole. Mark the connection points with dots at equal distances. Puncture the holes with an awl and decorate the insert. Slit the cord around the edges of the insert. Make the same slots at the top of the tongue.

Cut the sole out of thick leather. Cut out an insole from felt, and glue the sole on the outside of the insert and the insole on the inside.
Place the resulting part under the press.

Tie up the nose of the reamer with a thick waxed thread. Try on the shoe and tighten the thread. Tie the ends with strong knots. Sew on the insert. Thread the cord and tie.

note

Leather shoes can be sewn by hand or with a typewriter. From household machines the old "Singer" or "Podolsk" is the most suitable.

If you are going to sew more than one pair of shoes - make or order a last.

Helpful advice

The tops of old boots can be used as material. Thick fabrics like denim are also fine.

Rubber is also suitable for the outsole.

If this is your first time sewing shoes, try to sew slippers from some unnecessary fabric using this pattern.

Instead of a foot, you can circle the insole of a shoe that is comfortable for you.

You can decorate the insert with applique, embossing or fur. A strip of fur can also be sewn over the tops of the shoes.

The folds on the nose of the shoe should be 1-1.5 cm apart.

Sources:

• how to make shoes yourself

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Despite the huge assortment of the most different shoes on store shelves, people are often interested in making slippers, shoes or boots on their own. This desire is explained by many reasons: the ability to reduce the cost ready product, to get a model of a unique design that perfectly matches the parameters of the foot, or even simply try your hand at a new field for yourself. Be that as it may, in order to make shoes with your own hands, you need to study in detail all stages of production, choose the right raw materials and tools, correctly build a pattern, and perform many other actions. The process is long and complex, requiring remarkable patience, concentration of attention, perseverance, while it is quite feasible, interesting and informative.

Design features

The modern market presents many shoe models that differ from each other in material and appearance. Before studying the stages of making leather or suede products, you should familiarize yourself with the design, components, and their differences.

The elements that make up the upper part of the shoe:

1. Toe - the part that covers the surface of the toes, keeps the foot from mechanical damage, most often comes into contact with the external environment.
2. A vamp is a piece that covers the back of the foot. When walking, it constantly lends itself to bends, therefore it is deformed first.
3. Ankle boots - cover the lower parts of the lower leg and ankle joint. During operation, this part practically does not lend itself negative impact from the outside.
4. Eyelet - a place designed for laces, ropes.
5. The back is a detail that covers the heel of the foot.
6. Tongue - a part attached to the base of the boot that fixes the foot, prevents dust, dirt, and small parts from getting inside.
7. The insole is a layer of soft and pleasant leather (or other material) that contacts directly with the foot, softens walking, removes discomfort even when running.

The lower part of the shoe is represented by the following elements:

1. The sole is the most significant detail of the bottom, which determines not only the comfort while walking, but also the durability of the product. It protects the leg from unpleasant contact with the ground, softens the mechanical effect when jumping, running, walking.
2. The heel is a part that is designed to lift the heel of the foot. May be different shapes and size, it all depends on the model, seasonal design.
3. Heel - attached to the surface of the heel, protects it from abrasion.
4. Rant is the part responsible for securing the bottom of the shoe.
5. Protective inserts - elements made of cotton and polyurethane that prevent heel chafing and calluses.
6. Filler is a material that provides breathability, warmth, ventilation, protection from seasonal weather conditions.
7. An instep support - a part that is placed between the sole and the base of the insole, creates the necessary rigidity and elasticity.

The sole has enormous loads, it undergoes constant wear and tear when it comes into contact with the ground, so the material for its production must be of high quality and durable.

Making shoes with your own hands requires adherence to many rules. Each of the described details has its own production nuances.

Materials and tools

Before making your own shoes, it is important to choose the right material and assemble the right tools. Adult or children's products are most often made from leather, suede, textiles. Natural leather shoes, because it is durable, practical, wear-resistant, the chances of rubbing your feet are much less. From this raw material they make: sneakers, boots, boots, shoes, sneakers, flip flops.

Suede is a pleasant, soft, elastic material used for both adult and children's shoes. It does not have a front layer, it is laborious to manufacture, and therefore quite expensive. Textiles - used for sewing summer shoes, booties for children, sneakers, as well as house slippers. The material is very delicate, soft and pleasant to the touch. In such shoes, the foot always breathes, receives the necessary ventilation, comfort, warmth.

Textiles are environmentally friendly, so they are most often used to make children's shoes.

Leather
Suede leather
Textile

When making soles with their own hands, they use:

1. Skin - has increased durability, strength, protects the leg from external damage, allows it to breathe. Making a leather sole with your own hands is no more difficult than from any other material.
2. Rubber is a wear-resistant material that is resistant to frost, temperature extremes, and has thermoplasticity. It is characterized by strength, practicality, durability. The only drawback is the increased soiling of such a sole.
3. PVC is a cheap material that has good wear resistance and can be painted. Used for making winter footwear. The disadvantage is too heavy.
4. TPE - made of thermoplastic rubber, characterized by good wear resistance, does not slip on a wet road. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to give clear and even outlines.
5. Polyurethane - has low thermal conductivity, soft, lightweight, any seasonal models are made from it. Easy to repair. The footwear industry uses this material frequently. The disadvantage is fragile, it wears out quickly.

Leather Rubber
Pvc TEP
Polyurethane

Sewing shoes will not be possible without the following tools and consumables:

• file;
• tokmach;
• beeswax;
• awl;
• lingering pliers;
• hammer;
• boot knife;
• Desmokol polyurethane glue;
• nails;
• insulating tape.

Take care of having everyone necessary materials and the tools are in advance, only then you can proceed to the manufacturing process.

Manufacturing steps

The creation of shoes or boots consists of sequential steps that are important to follow. If you have no idea how shoes are made, it will be useful to watch a few videos, study step by step master class on correct sewing - this will make the process clearer, easier and more enjoyable.

Taking measurements

Taking measurements for sewing shoes is the first significant step, it helps to determine the required size of the selected model. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• the leg is placed on a white sheet of paper, the foot is traced along the contour;
• its length is defined as the distance between the protruding toe and the heel, width as the distance between points at its widest part;
• the girth of the instep and ankle is measured using a measuring tape;
• girths are determined: calf muscle (for high boots), oblique through the heel, feet in the narrowest and widest parts.

When tracing the foot, the pencil should be held perpendicular to the plane of the paper.

Each taken measurement written on the sheet, then these parameters are used in the manufacture of the layout and pattern.

Layout creation

The next step is to create a block. Wood is used as a material, which is characterized by increased hardness, resistance to moisture. For example, beech, birch, maple. To work, you will need two pieces of wood, preferably a square section.

When choosing bars, you need to understand what type of last should be obtained: the boot neck should be higher, by about 3 cm compared to the shoe. If for the first a bar with a cross section of 15 × 15 cm is taken, then for the second 12 × 12 cm will be enough.

Of the tools you need:

• axe;
• mallet;
• hacksaw for wood;
• rasp;
• a set of chisels and round cutters.

In addition, old shoes that fit the foot well will come in handy. Step by step algorithm:

1. On one side of the timber, the sole is drawn according to the standards, and the profile of the future desired model is drawn from the side with a template.
2. Center lines must be made between the top and bottom parts by drilling two through holes.
3. All unnecessary knots and fragments are removed with a hacksaw or a hatchet. After that, the workpiece is given a shape similar to the shape of a leg.
4. Coarser processing is done with a mallet and chisels. Then round incisors are used, since in some places the block is not only convex, but also concave inward.
5. At the end, sanding is carried out using sandpaper or rasps. If a heel is planned in the shoe, you need to create a special depression for it.

Having made the block according to the measurements, they proceed to create a preliminary layout. For this, the finished product is sheathed with thin, genuine leather... At this point, you already need to understand what the model will be, whether additional external design seams, drawings are provided. They are marked on the layout in advance, then, focusing on the finished appearance models move on to more complex manufacturing stages.

Take two pieces of wood
On one side of the timber, draw the sole according to the measurements.
Draw the profile of the future desired model on the side with a piece
Drill two through holes between the top and bottom
Remove unnecessary swirls and debris
Do a rougher treatment with a mallet and chisels
For convexities and concavities, use round incisors.
Grind the product
Finished block

Pattern preparation and overcasting

The insole pattern is made on the basis of the outlined foot. Moreover, it should be slightly longer, the shape of the sock is chosen depending on the model.

The top is constructed as follows:

1. The measurement results create the shape shown in the figure. The outer and inner lengths of the upper must exactly match the lengths of the outer and inner contour of the insole.
2. The cut is roughly based on the desired depth from the toe in the direction of the lift. In the process of work, it is worth trying on the patterns on the leg - to understand the correctness of the actions.
3. According to the pattern of the shoe, its upper part, a blank is cut out of natural suede or leather.

You need to cut the workpiece 2-3 mm more than the pattern itself. In this case, when making shoes, it will not be small.

The lining is cut according to the same shoe pattern. The top and lining are sewn or glued together. The edges need to be trimmed as much as possible, the leather must be sharpened if necessary, the product must be tinted so that it looks as close as possible to the desired shoe model.

Create a shape based on the measurement results
Cut the blank according to the pattern
Cut the lining, sew or glue to the top

Pulling on the workpiece and patching the welt

Manufacturing continues: you need to pull the top of the shoe onto the prepared last, it is important to learn how to do this very tightly. Then you need to put the insole. This stage of production is especially important, convenience and comfort while walking will depend on it.

Rant is a thin leather strip that connects all parts of the future model, stretched over the last. The presence of this part allows you to repair any model in case of damage to the sole or last.

Pull the upper part over the block
Trim the insole blank with a boot knife
Smear the place of attachment of the insole with desmokol
Attach the insole
Fix the workpiece with shoe nails
Continue to work with lingering pliers
Tighten the edges of the workpiece as tightly as possible to each other
Pull out nails, trim off excess suede
Glue a decorative leatherboard welt

Sewing on, dyeing and polishing the sole

The sole is different, more often rubber or leather. It needs to be strengthened with special small studs, which ensure reliability and durability. If you need to sew on a heel, use several layers of leather.

It is not enough just to make a model yourself and sew the correct layout, you also need to be able to professionally paint the sole and polish it. The color depends on the tone of the shoe. After applying the paint, you need to wait until it is completely dry. Self-production of shoes ends with a polishing stage.

Pour glue into a small, convenient container
Brush the bottom of the shoe blank
Pay special attention to the suede folds
Treat the sole with glue too
Warm up with a hair dryer to activate the properties of the glue
Press the sole and the workpiece tightly together, beat off with a hammer for grip strength
Cut off the protruding edges with a boot knife
Act slowly and carefully
The next stage is the manufacture of heels and heels.
Take the necessary measurements
File the area of ​​the heel attachment with a file
Fitting

Adults with very small or, conversely, large size legs can be very difficult to pick up an autumn or winter shoes... Those who wear size 34-35 have to go to children's stores for new clothes, giants from 45-46 may not find it at all suitable pair... An excellent way out of the situation will be to sew boots with your own hands, which will definitely meet all requests and wishes.

What it takes to sew boots

To sew boots yourself, you will need pads. You can purchase ready-made shoe pads, which differ from shoe pads by the presence of padding for sewing the bootleg. For those who want to fit their future boots as much as possible for themselves, the last can be made independently. To do this, it is necessary to lower the leg into a container filled with the impression mass, and remove it only after the substance has completely solidified. In the resulting cast, you need to fill in the casting material and wait until the block hardens.

Important! The finished layout must be wrapped with wide masking tape, which will prevent splitting and allow you to apply markings and drawings to the block.

In addition to the pads, for sewing boots you will need:

1. Leather, fabric and rubber that will form the basis for shoes. It is better to purchase them with a margin - several sheets of each material.
2. Sole. For the first time, you can use a sturdy sole from old boots that are out of fashion or simply disliked by their owner. If not, as a material for manufacturing new sole you can use a cork to make it water-repellent and durable.
3. Sewing tools. Needles, threads, scissors, a knife, a sharp awl and boot nails are among the tools necessary for sewing shoes.
4. Paper, tailor's meter and pattern pen, glue.

You can buy tools and supplies in specialized stores all together, or separately in supermarkets or in the market. It is important to take into account that shoe leather is much different from the leather from which clothes and bags are sewn, it is very hard and dense.

How to build a pattern for boots

After the last is ready, you need to start building a pattern. The insole is the easiest to make - it is drawn along the contour of the foot. It is important to take into account the shape of the toe and the fact that the finished shoe should be slightly longer than the foot itself.

The construction of the pattern of the upper part of the boots begins with measuring the foot in several places. The best way to do this is to use a flexible tailor's meter. With the measurement results in front of your eyes, you can draw a shape. It is also necessary to measure the height of the backdrop.

The outer and inner parameters must match the outer and inner contours of the insole, if it will be difficult to keep track of this. To build a neckline, you need to measure the depth from the toe to the instep. To build a schematic image of the bootleg, you need to measure its width in several places, taking into account the lock, and then draw a part of the required length.

Important! Paper patterns must be applied to the leg or block. If you need to make the model more loose in fit, the pattern can be made a little wider. In this case, you will need to pick up a lining under the top layer of leather.

How to sew boots with your own hands: instructions

After the patterns have been cut out of the pattern, they are transferred to the skin, from which parts of the future boot are cut out with a knife:

• The sole blanks cut from dense leather are applied to the block. To it, with the help of studs, a blank of the top made of leather is attached by pulling it onto the block.
• After the top is fixed, the junction with the sole is glued with a layer of glue. After that, you can remove the nails, cut off the excess material and glue the edging from the cardboard.
• The second part of the sole (ready-made or made of cork) is fixed on top with glue, firmly connecting them together. For a stronger grip, they can be slightly beaten off with a hammer.
• The rest of the top details are sewn together with an even and neat seam. In order for the seams to be as even as possible, you must first make the required number of punctures in the material and only after that use the needle and thread.
• A zipper is sewn into the bootleg, or if the boots are short, holes are made in the bootleg for laces.
• So that boots can be worn in the rain and wet snow, they need to be treated with a water-repellent impregnation or cream.

So that two boots from one pair are maximum similar friend for another, work on them must be carried out in parallel.

WE MAKE COZY HOME BOOTS

Winter is getting closer and this means that the coziest, most homely time is coming - the season of warm knitted items, hot drinks and quiet evenings at handicrafts. To be honest, this is my favorite time of the year. Ahead new year holidays, a time of gifts and joyful bustle, but still you can enjoy the tranquility and home comfort. This is exactly the atmosphere that the little thing that I propose to you to sew with me today - warm home boots made of felt with a knitted top - you can please yourself with them, and you can cook it for someone you love as a gift.

For work we need:

1. Felt 2 mm, cut 22 cm by 90 cm.

2. Thick yarn or ribbons for knitting.

3. Hook, knitting needles of suitable thickness.

4. Large needle with a large eye (for yarn).

5. Punch, hole punch or awl, scissors, marker or pencil on textiles.

6. Optional thick insoles (ready-made or homemade, I used an insole cut from the same sheepskin pattern).

You also need to print the pattern. If you print it at a scale of 1: 1, you get 38-39 size slippers. If you need to get a different size, change the print scale or manually adjust the size by cutting off the excess or adding the length of the outline.

We transfer the contours of the pattern, including points along the perimeter of the parts, to felt. Taking into account the specifics of the work of our workshop, I printed the parts directly on felt, but you can do this using a textile marker.

We cut out the parts and using a punch, hole punch or ordinary awl we make holes in the places indicated by the dots. The diameter of the holes should be larger the thicker you plan to use the yarn.

Let's start assembling the slippers. You will need a hook at this stage. The thickness of the hook should fit through the punched holes on the felt details.

We start assembling from the back seam. We connect the holes on the rear edges of the parts of the top of the slippers and pull the thread through the bottom holes using a crochet hook.

Go to the next hole and pull out another loop with a crochet hook.

We pass the second loop through the first.

Now we go to the third hole and pull another loop through it.

We again thread it through the previous one.

Thus, we crochet through all the holes and complete the back seam.

We continue crocheting - now we will pick up the loops from the upper holes for knitting the bootleg. Here I will make a small reservation - if you know how and love to crochet, then you don’t need knitting needles at all, you can crochet the tops of your boots using a crochet hook in any way, with a pattern that you like, as they say, is a matter of taste. I personally don’t like to crochet and don’t know how, I prefer knitting needles. Therefore, I use the crochet as little as possible, only to pull the threads through the holes in the felt. Thus, with the help of a crochet hook, I simply dialed in loops in order to then knit the bootlegs on the knitting needles.

Pulling new loops through all the holes in the felt, we collect the required number of loops and divide them into 3-4 knitting needles.

Here, I think, for everyone there will be a moment of free creativity - we knit in a circle the way we want: braids, jacquard, stripes - what we want and what we can do. I knitted simple elastic band 1: 1, alternating several shades of knitted tape.

When the bootleg reaches the desired height, finish knitting by closing the loops.

Now we will sew the sole to our boot. Take a thick knitted needle and thread through the eyelet.

We connect the mark on the heel with the back seam and sew the sole to the upper. It will be very easy, whichever stitch you use, since the pattern was prepared by me in such a way that the number of holes in the sole and upper matches exactly.

The Russian company Ralf Ringer is already 17 years old. It has three own factories (in Moscow, Vladimir and Zaraysk), the largest distribution network in Russia (over 1,700 stores) and the largest production volume in the country. men's shoes... In total, in 2012, she sold about 1.35 million pairs.

Ralf Ringer shoe company

Location

Moscow city

opening date

1996 year

employees

3000 people

Annual turnover

2 billion rubles

Before the start of production, future shoes go a long way. A team of brand managers, relying on global fashion trends, market analysis and sales results of the previous collection, creates a technical task. On its basis, fashion designers come up with a collection, which they show to the assortment department and company executives on a sketch board. Next, the models are selected, which, according to the general opinion, will be in demand in the market. For these models create technological map and patterns, according to which the first samples are created in the experimental workshop. The already sewn collection is again shown to the expert council, which step by step considers each style and model, sends them to the designers for revision and approves the final assortment. Only now the collection is being presented to buyers from various stores. The models they choose go into mass production.

The factory uses leather from four countries: from Russia - for rough men's boots, from Italy - for model classics, from Argentina - for semi-sports shoes, and from France comes high-selection raw materials, which are used in the production of the most expensive models.

The pads take into account the structural features of the Russian foot. Our shoes are wider and fuller than those of Europeans, so classic Italian shoes are often not suitable for our men. The width of the Russian foot can be not only a genetic feature, but also a consequence of orthopedic flat feet earned in childhood from uncomfortable shoes.

In this workshop, details of future boots are cut out. It is specially located on the ground floor, because the punching presses are very heavy - they simply could not withstand the overlap.

This is how the insoles are cut. Each shoe (with rare exceptions, moccasins, for example, without the main insole), in order to maintain shape stability, necessarily contains an insole made of shoe cellulose - a very dense, thick material. She, like the bones in the human body, creates the skeleton of the boot.

On the table, there are patterns tied with a string for a boot of a certain style and size. Each such part is inserted into a cutter, which, under the press, cuts the corresponding parts out of the material.

This is a preparatory workshop where previously cut parts are processed. They are painted over, burned with a special blowtorch, bent, and marked with a silver pencil. Then there is the marking of the details: on each shoe there is data on the type of shoe, color, size and batch number.

An important nuance when creating a shoe is that it should not have pronounced scars, seams that can injure the leg. In order to prevent the shoes from chafing, the edges of some parts are grinded. To check the thickness of the skin, use a thickness gauge (pictured).

In the workshop where laser perforation is carried out, there is always a strong smell of burnt leather. According to the pattern set by the program, the laser burns neat "holes" in the skin.

An automatic belt passes through the workshop, along which boxes with products travel. In order for the specialist to perform his operation, the master puts the box on the tape, presses the number of the corresponding specialist on the remote control, and the box is sent to him. When the operation is completed, the specialist returns the box with the product to the master, and he directs it to the next operator.

In this workshop, the main insoles are made, which are then attached to the upper blank, and then to the sole. The parts of the insoles (main and heel) cut out on the ground floor are glued together.

This machine makes a groove in the insole, into which the instep support is then inserted.

The next steps are related to shaping the boot. To do this, first, a shoe pulp insole is nailed to the last with three studs. Then, in special machines, the toe and heel-gel part of the shoe is tightened and glued on the last. The white threads on the bobbin in the photo are polyurethane glue that is heated up inside the machine.

The boot passes through a special sauna, where it is subjected to moisture-heat treatment, as a result of which it finally takes the shape of a shoe. Then the workpiece goes to prepare the attachment to the sole: the drawing is washed off, the boot is pre-primed and polished, the excess of the tightening edge is sanded with a coarse abrasive.

To attach the upper to the sole, the leather at the junction of the sole and the upper blank must be slightly ruffled - this way the parts "grasp" better.

This is the connection between the sole and the upper of the boot. The sole with glue gets very hot and is pressed into the upper in a special bath. The finished boot is very hot, so it is immediately sent to the freezer, and then the excess glue is quickly removed from it.

Then the shoe is removed from the shoe, the insoles are inserted into it, treated with cream, tinted with water-repellent paints, additionally polished, steamed with a special mini-iron, which straightens the inner sock. Also, boots are treated with carnauba wax, which is considered the most expensive material in shoe care products. It is thanks to him that the shoes in stores look so sparkling.