How to sew leatherette on a regular typewriter. Working with genuine leather

Hello, dear readers of the cutting and sewing site - site. The sewing circle continues its work. Today we will focus on the skin. Or rather her sewing. We will not consider how to sew leather on a simple machine, at least for now. Usually the phrase - "my machine does not take the skin" does not correspond to reality. How to sew leather on a typewriter is not the topic of today's material. But first a warning. The hand tool used must be sharp. Oddly enough, the dumber the awl for the skin, the higher the likelihood of being injured by it. This, in principle, applies to any tool with a cutting edge. Including ordinary kitchen knives ...

Training

A line is marked along which the line will pass. It is marked by simple punching. If there is a special tool for marking the position of the stitches, then using it, you can give the stitches a neat, professional look. With certain skills, this tool is not needed. I sewed enough. The thread is taken as long as four times the length of the intended connection. Both ends of the thread are threaded into the needles. The parts to be connected are placed in the clamp. Important note. Wash your hands thoroughly. Very light on the skin leave stains that are difficult to deduce.

What thread to sew leather

The type of seam considered in this material is the simplest. Bears the name of the saddle. The classic thread for performing this type of seam will be a thread made of flax. Linen is a durable material, but, nevertheless, in need of additional protection. Wax acts as a protection against moisture. If you paid attention, on expensive leather bags the seams are slippery to the touch. This is because the thread used in them is impregnated with wax. In Chinese you can buy ready-made threads. The wise Chinese do not do with natural materials in the production of such products.

Getting started

First, let's examine the awl. It is better if its working point is in the shape of a blade. In this case, the stitches will fit into the grooves left by the side edges of the awl tip. The awl for the skin is characterized by precisely this shape of the point. Round awls are also fine for the job. And to get grooves, you can swing it a little after piercing the parts to be fastened. The main thing is not to overdo it. When threading the needle for the first time, the awl itself can be comfortably grasped with your right hand.

We thread the thread finally and align it along the length. Now you need to learn how to handle three tools (two needles and one awl). And there are two hands! The photo provides an explanation. When not in use, it is convenient to grip the needles with the inside of the index and middle fingers. Resistance to pressing force when piercing is carried out by the index and thumb of the left hand. Just not very close to the piercing site. During this operation, a blunt instrument can play a cruel joke. It will just slide off. And to pierce the skin of his hand, the sharpness is enough for him.

Needles

After the hole is formed, the awl is gripped in the right hand with the little finger. The right needle lies between the middle and forefinger. The left needle, from the wrong side, is threaded through the hole that has just appeared with the left hand.

The right needle is held by the thumb, forefinger and placed behind the left needle, forming a cross.

The left needle is now pulled completely out of the hole. The thumb and forefinger are holding the needle. The ring finger, in the area of the eye of the needle, holds the thread, preventing it from falling out. The index and thumb of the left hand straighten the thread without letting it get tangled as it passes through the hole. When the thread is pulled, the right needle is threaded through the same hole. The right needle thread falls behind the left needle thread.

The left needle pulls the thread slightly taut as the right needle is passed.

Tightening

After both threads have been threaded, the stitch must be tightened. The hole made with the awl should have a diameter that allows the threads to be held tightly. They should not move freely in the hole, while simultaneously passing through it with some, not very great effort. The seam is tightened strongly. Be careful not to damage your fingers with the thread. Of course, a bartack is set. In the form in which we are accustomed to it. Only in the case of hand sewing leather, a couple of reverse stitches are sufficient. Both threads are brought out to the wrong side. Cut off without tying up in any way. This can spoil the appearance of the product.

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How to sew from genuine leather - we will try to answer this question in detail in this master class. There are some simple rules for working with genuine leather.

We will tell and show in detailed photos how to sew a basic seam on a sewing machine, process allowances and fasten threads, as well as how to sew a simple seam by hand.

How to sew from genuine leather: the necessary tools and equipment

How to sew from genuine leather with your own hands? In addition to the material itself, you will need a number of mandatory tools.

To cut and work with seam allowances, you should purchase a knife, hammer and glue. The basic version for beginners can be bought at a building supermarket, and a more professional tool is presented in stores of sewing accessories or accessories for sewing shoes.

Knife should be sharp and comfortable.

Hammer you should choose a small one, with a wooden or rubber head, it is designed for tapping allowances.

There is a professional glue for those who work with leather goods, it is often sold in large packages and it makes no sense to buy it for one or two projects. Choose a clear, waterproof polyurethane adhesive. Make sure leather is on the list of materials for which it is intended.

For pre-fixing some parts, you can use double sided tape... There is a special tape for leather in the hardware department, but it is quite expensive. You can use regular office double-sided tape, but only where the machine stitch will later be laid.

It is also desirable to have rubber mat, on which it is convenient to cut the skin. Also come in handy scissors and small pliers.

How to sew from genuine leather on a sewing machine? Ideally, you should have a machine for working with heavy fabrics and industrial leather. However, you can sew simple models made of medium-density genuine leather on a regular machine.

You will need for this special plastic foot and machine needles for leather which have a special spatula-shaped tip. You also need to purchase threads for leather, durable and slippery. The combination of these three components will allow you to sew natural leather on a household sewing machine.

Let's say a few words about buying material. sold in different sizes of skins, which are measured in dm2. The price is indicated for 1 dm2 and then the total cost of a particular skin is calculated. Very often there are various defects on natural leather: scratches, holes, defects in color and texture. In order to buy the right amount of material, take all the necessary patterns to the store and lay them on the skin, avoiding problem areas.

So let's find out how to sew from genuine leather!

Cutting basics

Look closely at the entire piece of leather in good daylight from different angles. With a small number of defects, mark them on the seamy side, if there are many problem areas - mark and lay out the pattern on the front side.

Cut out the main parts as close to the center of the skin as possible. The edges of genuine leather are thinner and may stretch slightly. They can be used for small decorative details: valves, belt loops, cuffs, etc.

If you sew from natural suede, please note that suede has a pronounced direction of the pile and details cut in different directions will differ from each other.

If thin skin is wrinkled, you can try to iron it with an iron from the wrong side through a slightly damp cloth. Be sure to try it on the little unnecessary piece first!

Simple seam and seam allowance

Remember that, unlike fabric, all needle or pin marks on natural leather remain forever!

Fold right sides in and line up the edges. For additional fixation, you can use stationery clamps or clothespins. Set the stitch length to 3.5-4 mm. Sew to the desired length. Leave the ends of the threads at least 3 cm long on both sides.

Pull the threads to one side and tie a double knot at the beginning and end of the seam.

Apply adhesive to both allowances, including knots.

Expand allowances and press them against the base. Tap each allowance and seam with a hammer.

Pull the threads to the wrong side and tie a double knot. Put glue on the knot and cut off the thread tails.

How to thread the ends of the threads

When working with genuine leather, it is often necessary to fasten the threads in such a place where both the front and back sides are in the public domain.

Thread both threads through a regular fine needle and stick it into the hole in the stitch next to the knot. Bring the needle out after 2-3 stitches.

Use pliers and a thimble to pull out the needle.

Pull firmly on the ends of the threads so that the knot enters the inside of the stitching, into the hole of the stitch.

Cut off excess threads with scissors.

Hand seam

Sometimes the bobbin thread runs out during sewing and the machine still has time to sew a few stitches. It happens that the machine cannot cope with the thickness of the leather part and only a series of punctures with a needle can be made. In all such cases, you will need to manually sew the seam over the finished punctures.

Insert the bobbin thread into the needle. Insert the needle into the nearest free hole.

Bring the needle to the right side and stick it back in the same hole, making a loop around the top thread.

Withdraw the needle and pull on both threads at the same time, tightening the stitch evenly. Continue to the end of the seam.

Leather goods have always been highly valued. This material is widely used in sewing clothes, making various accessories and even jewelry. Unfortunately, the skin is quite whimsical, you should work with it with special care. Therefore, if you decide to make any crafts, we will tell you how to sew leather on a sewing machine correctly so that the finished product will serve you for a year.

Grades and types of leather

The general appearance and thickness of the leather depends entirely on the raw material from which it was made, as well as on the technology of milling. Accordingly, the material is divided into grades, from which ready-made products are subsequently made. For example:

soft leather is used for sewing a vest;
for bags, it is best to take a tough variety;
with regard to the manufacture of jewelry, in this case, it is most appropriate to use kid's soft leather.

Necessary tools for work

Before you sew leather at home, you need to take into account the fact that it has many of its own "secrets" and nuances. They should be known and applied while working with this material:

When cutting out details, it should be remembered that the skin in its structure stretches much more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction. Accordingly - if the details of the pattern are paired, they should be cut in the same direction.

Important! It is impossible to chop off the skin with pins, as traces remain that will be visible on the finished product.

Depending on the type of material you are working with, you should select the necessary tools. For example, you can sew soft leather on a sewing machine using # 80 and # 90 needles. As for the coarse grade, in this case it is best to work by hand using a special needle, in which the point is made in the form of a triangular tip.

Important! When sewing leather on a sewing machine, the stitch length should not be too small. This is due to the fact that due to frequent punctures, the material at the joints will simply break.

The skin incision also needs to be done with a special instrument. A shoemaker's knife is best suited for these purposes.

Important! Such material should be cut on a plastic surface or plexiglass, since if the process is carried out on a wooden base, the knife will simply cut into it.

In addition to the above tools, you will also need:

Thimble;
Rubber glue;
Strong synthetic threads;
Adhesive reinforcement of seams;
A hammer;
Awl.

How to sew leather at home?

Depending on the type of material of the future product you have chosen, the presence of any skills and knowledge, leather at home can be sewn in three ways:

With a needle;
Crochet;
On a sewing machine.

We sew the skin with a needle

To sew this material with a needle, you need to adhere to the following sequence of actions:

Apply a line on the material by extrusion, which will serve as a guide for you in subsequent work.
Using a hammer and punch, punch as many holes as you need along the line.

Important! When punching holes, a piece of thick rubber should be placed under the material.

Cut out the prepared holes.
Place the material in the clamp. Now you can proceed to stitching. You can sew with a saddle stitch, forward stitch, or overseam.

Important! If you wish, you can work with two needles at the same time, and to facilitate the work, pre-wax them.

How to crochet leather?

If you don't have a special needle, don't despair. You can do a great job with a crochet or an awl. This should be done very carefully, since, unfortunately, sewing leather parts in this way, they can be easily damaged.

The procedure is as follows:

Hold the awl or hook in one hand, and the prepared overedge in the other.
From the outside of the workpiece, make a hole and insert a hook into it.
Make a loop from the seamy side of the thread, pull it with a crochet hook to the front side of the workpiece.
Detach the hook and pull on one end of the thread. As a result, you will have one end of the thread on the front side, and the other on the wrong side.
Make another puncture on the material.
Insert a hook into the hole and hook the thread from the inside out. Pull it up so that its tip rises above the front side at a height of about 10 millimeters.
Release the hook, and pull a piece of the previously obtained thread into the resulting loop.
Tighten the stitch, then pull the thread from the inside.
At the end of all work, once the first and last stitches touch, take a few steps in the opposite direction. The thread should be pulled into the old holes.

How to sew leather on a household machine?

Immediately I would like to start with the fact that you can sew leather on an ordinary sewing machine, but not thick. A sewing machine may well cope with a material thickness of about 1-1.5 millimeters, but with a more dense one, you will have to tinker with it manually. The sewing process itself is similar, the only difference is that you first have to create special “conditions” for your working tool:

The needle for sewing leather fabric should be special, with a round cross-section. The end of such a needle has sharp edges, but due to its non-standard shape, it easily pierces the material, while gently pushing the fibers apart without cutting them.
If the needle is unable to cut the hole while sewing, you can adjust the needle tighter or replace the fabric with a thinner one.
If there are difficulties with the threads and they do not tighten, try replacing them with flax or nylon.
In order for the conveyor to easily cope with the advance of the material, purchase a special roller, PTFE or Teflon foot.

Important! Very often, in order not to spend money on the purchase of an additional foot, experienced tanners grease the pattern with oil, sprinkle it with talcum powder, or simply help the progress with their hands during work.

And finally, we want to offer you some practical tips that will be useful to you during the manufacture of various leather products:

Try to choose patterns that do not require planting. As for complex shapes, they are best done with complex seams rather than darts.
Avoid kimono sleeves when sewing clothes. It is best to work with a shirt cut as it has a deep armhole.
When working with leather, you should use already proven patterns. If this is not possible, sew a test item from a different material.
Before cutting on the wrong side of the material, mark the holes and various irregularities that you can get around when cutting out the parts. It is better to do this with a ballpoint pen or pencil.
During cutting, the leather is stretched in different directions. Therefore, it is very important to observe the correct direction of the paired parts.

Important! When cutting

Seamstresses often need to work with leather, both natural and artificial. It can be sewing leather jackets and jackets, accessories. Even replacing a zipper or a simple repair of leather products requires some skill in working with this material.

To master them, you need to choose the right thread for sewing leather and tools that make it easier to work with this difficult material.

We sew leather - features of work

The secrets of working with leather lie in the fact that this material is of different thickness and texture, is able to stretch when sewing, therefore it requires special threads and tools. Small accessories such as purses or belts are sewn by hand. To do this, take nylon threads for leather. But they are not suitable for stitching leather on a sewing machine, because they will tear the material. You can't do without a car when sewing car covers or hauling furniture. They sew on it with twisted braided threads.

Having conceived to sew a thing from leather, you need to make a pattern and go to the store with it to buy material. Usually leather is sold in pieces of different sizes and shapes, with a pattern it is easier to find the right format. Before starting work, the skin is laid out on the table and the places with defects are chalked around in order to try to get around them when cutting.

Important! When cutting paired parts, they need to be laid out in a mirror-like manner, since the leather stretches differently in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Before cutting out genuine leather, you must first cut and assemble a test piece from fabric, if necessary, make adjustments to the paper pattern and only then transfer it to the skin. The contours are marked with a special pen with a soft rod or pencil. At the same time, mark the seam and hem allowances, preferably of the same width, so that it is easier to grind.

When working with leather, you will have to forget about basting with a needle and pricking with pins, since each puncture leaves a mark and it is impossible to mask it later. You can pre-connect the parts with paper clips, adhesive tape or a special Gutermann glue stick. Its advantage over adhesive tape is that when sewing, the sticky substance of a pencil does not clog into the eye of the needle and does not spoil the threads.

Details are connected with a stitch or seam seam. The allowances are not ironed, as on fabrics, but are carefully straightened and glued with rubber or any other glue, which, after drying, retains its elasticity. A leather item is often decorated with an embroidered pattern. Simple patterns are made by hand, complex ornaments are more convenient to embroider on a machine.

Leather tools

The main tool that you need when sewing leather is a needle. For working with leather materials, special ones should be used: long, perfectly polished and thin. Their tip does not look like a sharp point, but looks like a triangular blade. When sewing, it cuts through the skin and gently stretches it, preventing breaks when passing the thread. The needles differ in different angles of entry into the material. Manufacturers on their websites show photos and videos of leather stitches, which are obtained when sewing with different needles.

Important! When working with dyed eco-leather, a special needle, by cutting through the material, prevents pieces of paint from peeling off around the hole

The thickness of the needle must correspond to the thread number and the density of the material in order to obtain a quality stitch.

When cutting leather, you will need a plastic or glass board, on which it is easy to steer with any cutting object, cutting out parts. The wooden one is inconvenient because the blade of a knife cuts into it. To cut out leather parts, take a boot knife or blade with a holder. When sewing by hand, you will need an awl to pierce the thread holes and thimble. Many craftsmen use a small rubber hammer, which is convenient for straightening the stitched seam, walking along the glued allowances to secure them.

If the leather product is to be sewn on a machine, you will need a special foot. Its necessity is due to the fact that the bottom conveyor can hardly cope with the advancement of this dense material. Because of this, the line deteriorates. The roller foot is designed to facilitate the advancement of leather and fur. The same purpose is served by a Teflon foot, which easily glides over the material due to its smoothness and does not hinder its pulling when stitching. On the forums of specialists working with leather, craftsmen speak favorably about the walking foot. It promotes the material well and enhances the capabilities of the household machine to the level of an industrial device.

What thread to sew leather

When choosing threads for working with leather, one should focus on the density of the material and the thickness of the needle. The thinner and longer it is, the lower the number of threads used. Usually these are needles No. 90 and 100, which are suitable for eco-leather, loose leatherette and thin natural leather. The optimal thickness of threads for such leather is considered number 35 or 45. They are strong and not too thick, do not require a special reconfiguration of the machine. Sometimes thread # 20 is used to topstitch the outer details of bags or to make a decorative protruding seam on accessories. It will require a thicker needle and will have to adjust the tension, set the appropriate stitch length.

In any case, for leather sewing threads, strength and elasticity are important. Old Soviet-style cotton threads, even thick ones, are not suitable for work. They tear quickly with a slight tension on the stitched parts, rot and deteriorate. Nylon sewing threads are suitable for hand-sewn leather, but they are not for machine sewing because they tear the material.

The optimal choice of thread for sewing leather on a machine is reinforced. They have a polyester core, tightly braided with cotton, linen or rayon fibers. This thread is very strong and elastic. The stitch is delicate and strong, the seam does not pile up. The threads are convenient for working with fur and leather materials, since they do not fray and do not stretch, do not become electrified due to special processing. They do not wear out and do not shrink when washing, they are resistant to paints and alkalis from household chemicals.

For embroidery on leather, it is better to choose nylon threads - if the pattern is made by a machine and cotton floss - to embroider the pattern by hand. To make the thread lay flat, the elastic skin is compacted with duplicate.

Types and manufacturers

To correctly determine with what thread the leather is sewn, it is necessary to understand the types of polyester threads.

Reinforced are of several classes, which differ from each other in the composition of the braid of the polyester core. The thread is formed by simultaneously pulling the inner lavsan (polyester) rod and braiding it with protective cotton, viscose or lavsan fibers.

To work with leather, take threads with cotton (LH) or lavsan (LL) braid. They have a round cross-section, are very strong and give a neat, strong seam. With them, shrinkage of the product along the stitched seam is excluded, their color is resistant to sunlight, water or chemical detergents.

COATS epic threads, offered by the Russian company PAZH (LLC Pazha), are used for sewing leather and fur. In them, the polyester core is braided with staple fibers, thanks to which they are durable and can be used on modern high-speed sewing devices.

What thread to sew leather on a sewing machine is shown in the table below.

A special type of polyester yarn is filament. Their difference from reinforced ones is that such threads do not twist from short fibers, but are made using the technology of continuous polymerization during stretching. An example of such a thread is Sinton. They are durable, they are used on industrial devices when sewing furniture and car covers, shoes, suitcases, bags.

Ritza Tiger waxed braided threads from Danish manufacturer Julius Koch are made of polyester and differ from other flat-section leather sewing threads. The seam of them looks delicate, does not wrinkle. The thread wax does not stick to your hands and does not clog the eye of the needle.

Consultants in specialized sewing shops in the city of Moscow will help you choose the right threads in terms of thickness and structure.

How to choose

When choosing, you should pay attention that the marking may indicate the width of the thread in millimeters. If you are planning to sew a purse, watch straps and other small accessories, choose a thread 0.4 mm wide. She looks harmonious and gives things lightness. When sewing belts or bags, it is more convenient to take threads of medium width - about 0.5 mm. For sewing backpacks or shoes made of thick leather, you need a thread of 0.7-1.0 mm. The seam looks smoother and neater if the thread has a dense double twist.

For handmade leather crafts, craftsmen often opt for flaxened linen thread No. 10. They are made of triple-twisted combed linen yarn. This thread is very strong and has a pleasant matte color.

Sewing leather requires the correct choice of thread color. They can be either in the tone of the product or in contrast with it. Handmade will be emphasized by a seam made of light thread on dark leather, a combination of the color of the outer seam on the bag with a shade of lining.

For working with artificial leather, the optimal choice is threads # 40. This type of leather is very soft, and the stitches made of thin threads look good on it. For topstitching handles, you can use # 20 to make the seam stronger and more expressive.

Both cotton and synthetic threads are used for embroidery on leather. The choice depends on how the pattern will be embroidered - by hand or using a machine.

How to sew leather goods correctly, see the video below.

Many needlewomen have to deal with leather in their work. Products made from this material look very impressive and stylish. But this material is not as easy to process as it might seem at first glance. Consider the main parameters of work, as well as how to sew leather on a sewing machine, what thread to work with.

What should be prepared

When working with leather, there are a lot of different features and little things, and if you are unfamiliar with them, you are unlikely to be able to establish a good work with this material. For example, if it is necessary to cut out the same parts, it is worth remembering that in the transverse position the material stretches better than in the longitudinal one. Based on this, we can conclude that you can cut out paired parts in any direction, but always in the same direction.

How to work with natural material on a sewing machine

For many, such work may seem like an impossible task, but if you competently approach the task at hand, you will certainly succeed.

Let's consider how you can sew natural leather so that when you move on to this stage of work, you will not have any difficulties.

It is necessary first to fold the parts to each other with the front sides. Align the edge. For the purpose of fixing, you can use clamps or clothespins.
Adjust the stitch length 3.5-4 mm on the technique. Sew the stitch length as required.
On each side, you must leave a thread at least 4 cm long, for ease of processing.
The edges of the threads must be pulled to one side, where you can tie them with a double knot.
Allowances and knots will need to be glue. Expand them and press them to the base.

You can sew a finishing stitch if you wish.

When making clothes using natural material, it must be ironed from the back, while the iron should not be too hot. Use a dry cloth for ironing, do not use steam.
In order to prevent the parts from stretching, you need to use a special foot.
Fasten the seams more securely with a couple of knots, otherwise you risk that the seams will simply unravel.
For work, you will certainly need to use glue. In this case, PVA or Moment is suitable, it can also be rubber glue.