Building the basis of the pattern. Building a pattern for the basis of a dress: Italian technique as the easiest way to make a good pattern

Do you want to learn how to sew? IT IS TIME TO TAKE THIS NEW Frontier. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns.
We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in an easy new way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No - I will not give you any ready-made patterns - I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The lightest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me - it is.

Yes - Sewing by yourself is very easy and simple. Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

And you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover - I will teach you yourself to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the pen in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacies of numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WILL NOT LEAD YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch up with fear and make a girl who really, really wants to sew a dress- but I was very unfriendly in school years with geometry and drawing... Even I - who adore both of these school subjects - walked around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: "Well, how long will it take to draw such a drawing, and after all, you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in letters ...".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (this is a piece from it you see from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-and-digit cobweb.

How is it? Have I removed some of your concerns yet?

Relax now - we won't start drawing right now. For starters, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know each other, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a base pattern?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast from your body. This is your personal print. Any item, sewn according to YOUR base pattern, will perfectly fit YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be stitched based on one single pattern... All-all models of dresses are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even in three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits your figure perfectly). Dress tailored to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual base pattern. See, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face oval.

All the other (any-lovable) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

This is how it works in the fashion world.

Once the fashion designer thought ...“And what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - the figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of opposite overlapping triangles (red outlines - the figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful.

What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a pattern basis.

And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just have a lot of imagination.

And another fashion designer thought: “And what if we give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs on the arm. " And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do that too. If you UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And according to what laws does it exist.

That's why I do not want to give you instructions stupidly to create a base pattern (like "read a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place of its intersection with line X with the next point ..." - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you bitch... I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Have learned to see what a simple drawing in essence hides behind a photograph of any dress, even intricately tailored.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes, we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - let us find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way ..

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It’s as if you’ve already drawn the base patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a pair of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as a thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us. "

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - the base pattern. We will tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple drawing - like a lattice for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a pair:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what these halves are for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo of a black-and-white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. That is to say - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in Potnov's language the halves are called “shelves”. We will draw these very front and back shelves today. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: Tuck and ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce.

So, get to know - POSITION.

When drawing the base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and the size armhole that suits you - when the armhole does not pull or dig into the arm.

That is, the base pattern contains minimum size of armholes permissible... You can simulate the armhole of your choice, of any configuration. But your fancy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole on the basis of the pattern - these are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not step.

Your model armhole can be as large as you want - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

DARK BACK- shoulder dart + waist dart.

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the grooves of the back - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don't see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don't have it either. Because for convenience and beauty - this dart is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper. That is, excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra tissue trimmed in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in ..

Also darts are optional if you are sewing from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Let's get to know ... HALF DRUTS.

Oh, you can write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain more clearly - what it is for and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought ... and came up with it.

The fact is that a woman has a breast.))) That is, in front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. A dart on the front shoulder gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in the pictures. How does this happen.

For example - we have a flat piece of fabric, and we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a dart on it. For example - this flat circle made of cardboard, with the help of a dart, will now become convex.

Here's how the brisket tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the breast dart the tip of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in the store, which was somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its edge was directed by the tops of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut for your breast shape at the factory.

But that is not all,

what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this breast dart is located not on shoulder- a on the side just below the armpit... This is for beauty. The dart on the shoulder is more striking, and from the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest dart from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?)))

It's only the beginning…

We continue walking along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

BREAST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We will sew it with you. Do not even hesitate)

The chest line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate on it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the front before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder dart is in front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to find out that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letters and numbers).

WAISTLINE

We focus on this line when we draw waist darts - both on the details of the front and on the details of the back. The widest point of the dart is exactly at the waist line.

HIP LINE

So why is it easy and simple to draw a base pattern? You will understand now.

WHY DRAWING A BASE PATTERN IS EASY AND SIMPLE

I want to draw your attention to 2 wonderful points.

Wonderful moment # 1 - the entire pattern is created inside a rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)

Wonderful moment # 2 - the most laborious is drawing the upper part of the pattern - where the neck is, and the shoulder line, and darts, and armholes.

And to make it morally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that's it - the upper part is ready.

As you can see, if you divide a seemingly difficult job into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts itself does not seem difficult. As a result, you will not notice how everything has already been drawn.

It's simple- first we draw a large rectangle, then we divide its upper part into three zones. Draw 2-3 lines in each zone. And all that remains is to go down below and draw the waist darts and the line of the hips. Ha! Delov something!

Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real base pattern.

Well then, let's get started. And we'll draw it all in 20 minutes. Time the timer.

BEGIN TO DRAW A PATTERN BASIS - WE TAKE MEASURES.

WE TAKE MEASURES

Height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra - to the bottom of the hem of the dress)

Semi-girth of the chest - (chest girth divided by 2)

Chest center measure - (distance between the tops of the chest) in your regular bra.

Back width- (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades - from hand to hand)

Back length(from the cervical vertebra to the waist)

Shoulder length- (from the lateral point at the base of the neck - to the shoulder joint)

Semi-girth of the neck- (the girth of the neck is divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it

Half hip - (the girth of the hips was divided by 2)

Half waist - (waist circumference divided by 2)

How to remove all those girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck - we know.

And to take other measurements, I give you an approximate picture below:

STEP ONE- draw a rectangle.

Height of the rectangle - this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress

The width of the rectangle is half-girth of the chest + a few cm for a loose fit.

How much you need to add these same centimeters for a free fit, now we'll figure it out.

Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of tightness of a sheath dress:

• Tight fitting dress silhouette

• Adjacent silhouette

• Semi-fitting silhouette

• Straight silhouette

If you need tight-fitting silhouette - then choose the fabric that has elastic fibers, that is, it stretches a little (not like a stretch, but slightly) - and then the ADDITIVE ON FREEDOM OF FITTING MAY BE LOST AT ALL - that is, the width of the pattern will be equal to the half-girth of your chest.

If you sew a dress from an ordinary non-stretch fabric, then you will not be able to completely adhere it to the curves of your body - and the maximum we can do is cut out adjacent silhouette ... And then the ADDITION ON FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE - 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, the armhole area and the chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we will calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each of the zones - and that's it.

If you need a dress semi-adjacent silhouette (one that hides the "flaws" of the figure) - then the ADDITION ON FREEDOM OF FITTING will be 4-5 cm (1 cm will go to the back zone, 1.5 cm to the armhole zone, the rest automatically falls into the chest zone.

And if we need a basic pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then we add 6-7 cm.

STEP TWO -we zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: the back zone, the armhole zone, the chest zone.

Back width is a measure of the back width divided by 2

The width of the armhole is the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 2 cm

The width of the chest zone is what will remain.

ATTENTION (!!!) If at the very beginning you made an allowance for freedom of fit, do not forget to add a part of this allowance to each zone (as I described a little higher in the article).

STEP THREE - in the back area, draw 2 lines - the neckline + the shoulder line.

Neck line - lies on a rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised upward.

What you need to know:

neck width = 1/3 semi-obchv. neck + 0.5cm

the height of the edge of the neck above the rectangle = 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.8 cm

What do we have to do:

So we divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 and add 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the upper line to the left. We found the width of the neck and marked it with a dot.

Now this point needs to be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.

We all found the edge of the neckline - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done simply by hand.

Shoulder line

it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neckline and slightly extends beyond the border of the back zone.

What you need to know:

Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for dart.

The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for high 1.5 cm, for sloping 3.5 cm) - mark the level of inclination on the lateral line of the back zone (measure from top to bottom).

What do we have to do.

We figured out what type our shoulders are. Measured on the lateral line of the back zone the desired value (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)

A line was drawn - from the edge of the neck to the marked level of the slope.

And on this line we measure the shoulder length + 1.6 cm for a dart. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back zone.

Back dart:

What you need to know:

The dart is 4 cm from the edge of the neck

The depth of the dart is 6 cm (that is, it goes down by 6 cm)

The dart width is always 1.6 cm

The first side of the tuck is lowered perpendicularly, and the second is deflected to the side.

Both sides of the dart are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm

What do we have to do(see the picture) - we measured 4 cm from the edge of the neckline (put a bold point) and further measured 1, 6 cm for a dart (put a dot) - these are the edges of our dart.

Now they lowered the perpendicular 6 cm down, then went up to the other edge of the dart. Moreover, we also rose exactly 6 cm. Yes, we will rise a little above the shoulder line. But it is important for us that the sides of the dart are of the same length - after all, we will sew them together (close the dart) - and they must match in length. If they do not match in length, the shoulder line will turn out to be a broken line after closing the dart.

STEP FOUR- we find the line of the chest and in the area of ​​the armholes draw the armhole of the back and the armhole of the front.

Back armhole line

What you need to know:

The armhole line goes down evenly to the chest line.

And the height of the armhole of the back is always = 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 7 cm

The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is exactly in the middle of the armhole zone (on the chest line).

Top 2/3 of your armhole height goes almost straight down

The lower 1/3 of your height + 2 cm - the armhole bends towards the midpoint of the armhole zone.

Draw the line of the chest

Find the height of the armhole. It is equal to = half-girth of the chest: 4 + 7 cm. The armhole of exactly this height will be optimal for your arm, it will not cut into the armpit, or pull the shoulder.

We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. Measured and put a point.

We have now found not only the lower edge of the armhole - we have now automatically found the level of the chest line. This very important line is found only in this way. Her level is always the size of the armhole, measured down from the shoulder.

And to draw the chest line exactly horizontally. It is necessary to measure with a centimeter the distance from this point to the upper edge of the square of our pattern. And then measure the resulting value on both sides of the pattern - slap the points - and connect them with a horizontal line.

Draw the line of the armhole of the back.

Now we will draw the line of the armhole of the back.

The lower extreme (axillary) point of the armhole is always in the middle of the armhole zone on the chest line. They measured the armhole zone with a centimeter - found the middle - slapped the point.

The line of armholes starts from the edge of the shoulder, goes down and begins to bend to the side only at the level of 1/3 of its height + 2 cm. We measure this distance from the chest line. That is, the height of the armhole: 3 + 2 cm = the distance from the chest line, where the armhole begins to bend towards the axillary point. But to be honest, I don't always remember about these additional 2 cm and always draw a bend by eye, by hand - I define approximately 1/3 and from it I start to round off.

Front armhole line

What you need to know:

The height of the front armhole is equal to the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 5 cm

The armhole has 2 bends:

The upper bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line on 1/10 chest measurements

Bottom bend - starts at 1/3 of the armhole height from the chest line

What do we have to do:

We find the level of the upper bend of the armhole - half-girth of the chest: 4 + 5 cm - slap the point. Now this point must be moved to the left by a distance equal to = half-girth of the chest: 10.

Now we find the level of bending of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. Measure this distance on the lateral line of the armhole zone - slap the point.

And we also have the same axillary point. We get only three points. Now, through these three points, draw a smooth line of the armhole.

STEP FIVE- WE DRAW THE LINE OF THE BREAST AREA (neck, shoulder and chest dart)

Neck line

What you need to know:

The width and neckline of the front is the same as the neckline of the back = half-girth of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm

The depth of the neck is = half-girth of the neck: 10 + 2 cm

Neck edge height measured from the chest line and equal to = bust: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)

The diagonal depth of the neck is = 1/3 half-girth of the neck + 1 cm

What do we have to do:

We find neck width(half-girth of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - slap the point.

We find throat depth(half-girth of the neck: 10 + 2 cm) - measure it down from the corner of the pattern - slap the point.

Now raise the edge of the neck- it must be above the bust line by a distance equal to (half-bust: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).

We measure this distance up from the chest line - and to this level we raise the edge of the neckline.

Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline line, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline... It is measured with a centimeter tape from the imaginary place of intersection of the continuation of the edge of the pattern and the level of the upper point of the neck (light green lines in the figure).

Front shoulder line

- you don't need to know anything. Here, in general, everything is simple - we connect the edge of the neck of the front and the upper edge of the armhole of the front - the gray line in the figure.

Breast dart.

What you need to know:

The edge of the breast dart reaches the chest line.

The tip of the breast dart should match exactly with the top of the breast (this is where the measure of the center of the breast comes in handy).

The width of the dart is found empirically, which is described below.

What do we have to do:

We find on our pattern the top of the chest. To do this, measure on the chest line from the right edge of the pattern half bust center measure + 1cm... Only half, because we have only half of the front on the pattern.

We put a point - and from it we draw a perpendicular straight line straight up - to the shoulder line. Here we have just identified the location of the breast dart, so that its point is directed evenly to the top of our breast. The chest will fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress - without distortions.

Now we need to draw the second side of the dart - BUT for this we need to know its width.

There are no formulas here. The width of the dart is determined empirically. For this we need

1.) Know the measure of the length of your shoulder (we took this measure at the very beginning)

2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.

3.) Compare these values ​​with each other.

4.) The difference in size will be the width of our dart. In flat-chested kids, this difference is zero, which means that the width of the dart is also zero. That is, it does not exist. Well, rightly so, little girls have no breasts - why would they need a dart.

5.) Find the width and measure to the left of the edge of the dart. We mark with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the edge of our dart. Ops! And the dart is almost ready.

6.) It remains only to make both sides of the dart the same length. We measure the first side of the dart. And we measure the same distance on the other side of the dart. So that they are the same and coincide with each other when we close this dart.

7.) The shoulder line turned out to be a little broken (raised after tuck). But this is how it should be. After closing the tuck, it will go down and be perfectly flat.

WE FINISHED WITH THE TOP OF THE PATTERN. URAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

It remains to separate the back shelf from the waist shelf. Then find the line of the waist and the line of the hips. On the waist line, draw a side bend and 2 waist darts (on the back and front). On the line of the hips, draw an extension of the hem to the sides.

Let's do it quickly and that's it - you can open a bar with drinks and celebrate this business.

Well, let's get started ...

STEP SIX - we divide the pattern into the back shelf and the front shelf - that is, into the right and left sides.

What you need to know:

Side seam line - divides the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf.

The line of the side seam does not pass in the middle, but shifts towards the back (it is necessary to divide the width of the armhole zone into 3 identical parts by two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back), the side line will pass)

What do we have to do:

We measure the width of the armhole zone. We divide it into 3 equal segments - two points. And through the left point and draw a vertical line. This will be the side line of our shelves (back and front).

STEP SEVEN - draw the waist line and the hip line.

What you need to know.

The waistline is located below the cervical vertebra at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.

The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the back length measurement.

The waistline and hip line - has a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the half of the front (this deflection is needed for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest have).

What do we have to do.

We measure the level of the waistline - measure down from the top of the pattern back length measurement- draw the line.

We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half back measurement- draw the line.

On the right side of the pattern, mark the points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - we bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).

STEP EIGHT - draw the side bends of the front and back + waist darts of the front and back.

We calculate the width of the darts and side bends

What you need to know:

Front side bend width = Back side bend width = Back waist dart width = Front waist dart width. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and in the darts.

To find out the width of a dart or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the one that should be cut in the side bend or hide in the dart. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will be tucked into its own dart or into its side bend). Means…

Dart (or side bend) width = excess fabric: 4

Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus waist half girth.

A bit confused, but now I will show everything with a specific example….

What do we have to do.

1.) We know the width of the pattern (remember, it is equal to the half-girth of the chest + 6 cm)

2.) We know the half-girth of the waist (we took measurements at the very beginning)

3.) We subtract the half-girth of the waist from the width of the pattern and additionally subtract 2 cm.

4.) The resulting figure is the amount of excess fabric that will go into the side bend or darts.

5.) Width of one dart (or side bend) = amount of excess fabric: 4.

For example, the width of my pattern is 52 cm, and the semi-circumference of my waist is 36 cm.

The amount of excess fabric around the waist will be 52 - 36 - 2 = 14 cm.

It is this amount of fabric that should be partially cut off at the side bend of my pattern, partially hidden inside the darts of the front and back.

On the pattern there are 2 bends (at the side of the front and at the side of the back) and 2 darts (one at the front, one at the back).

This means that my surplus of 14 cm should be evenly distributed among all these four elements. That is, 14 cm: 4 = 3.5 cm.

That is, 3.5 cm will be the width of the dart of the back + 3.5 cm will be the width of the dart of the front + 3.5 cm will go into the bend of the side line of the back + 3.5 cm will go into the side bend of the front line.

Now it is clear how to find out the width of the darts and bends.

We can draw the side bends at once - we measure one size at a time (in my case, 3.5 cm) on both sides of the midline:

And in order to draw waist darts on the back and front, you still need find their correct location on the pattern.

We draw the waist dart of the back.

What you need to know:

The central axis of the waist dart of the back - runs in the middle of the back zone. That is, it is located from the left edge of the pattern at a distance equal to = back measurement: 4

The upper vertex of the waist dart of the back is located just on the chest line (where the axis intersects this line)

The lower top of the waist dart of the back - does not reach the hip line by 4 cm.

What do we have to do:

First, let's draw the centerline of the dart - that is, a straight line that will represent the center of the dart. The tops of the dart will be located on this centerline.

The center line of the waist dart of the back runs exactly in the middle of the back zone.

That is, you can simply measure the width of the backrest area and find its middle.

Or measure from the edge of the shelf to the right a value equal to = back measurement: 4.

Finding the tops (sharp tips) of the darts: Top apex lies on the bust line where the dart axis intersects. The lower one lies on the axis, at a distance of 4 cm from the hip line.

Now we draw a dart: on the waist line, on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart. And from these points we draw lines to the top top of the dart and to the bottom top of the dart.

Front waist dart.

What you need to know:

Front waist dart - Lies on the same axis as the chest dart. That is, the axis of the tuck is also located at a distance equal to = half center bust measurement + 1cm

The tops of the waistline are on the line of its axis: the upper one does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower vertex does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.

What do we do:

We find the axis of the waist dart of the front - either we continue down the line of the dart of the chest, or we measure from the right edge of the pattern a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm.

We measure this distance along the line of the chest and along the line of the hips - we put the points, connect and get the axis of the dart.

On the axis we mark the tops of the waist dart of the front - the upper top does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower peak does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.

On the waistline, on both sides of the axis, we measure half the width of the dart - and from these points we draw lines down and up to the tops of the dart.

STEP NINE - draw an extension in the hips and a smooth roundness of the bottom of the product.

What you need to know:

Hem dresses expands in the area of ​​the hip line by 1.5 cm.

And if you want a slightly widened hem, then also make an extension on the bottom line of the product another 1.5 cm(that is, in total at the bottom, the hem will expand by 3 cm).

Anyway, when trying on, you will see the optimal width of the hem and you yourself will sew the side seam under the hip line there yourself if you want to narrow the hem.

The bottom of the product also has a slight curvature (by 1.5 cm) to the edge of the front and back shelf.

What do we do:

On the line, we measure 1, 5 cm on both sides of the side line of the shelves (we put dots).

On the bottom line of the pattern, we measure in both directions by 1.5 cm (or 3 cm if we want a slightly extended hem)

We connect these points with a smooth line, drawing the side lines of the hem of the front and back. The side lines of the front and back hemlines are drawn (as you noticed) overlapping each other - crossing each other. Then, having made copies from the base pattern, we cut out the back shelf separately, the front shelf separately, that is, we divide these halves, leaving each of them with its own outline of the hem.

Now for the curved line of the bottom of the product - we draw dots 1.5 cm lower than the bottom corners of the pattern... We connect these points with smooth lines to the extreme side points of the hem.

Done, comrades-girls !!! We with you in a sober mind and memory have just made a pattern-base !!! And at the same time, they never even turned off the brain and nicknames-cadabras with letters-numbers.

Moreover - you did not just draw under my pointer - but you understood what is hidden behind each line. And this is a little thing - oh, how useful it will be for you when modeling. And we will moderate you - all kinds of things and with pleasure and also with full consciousness of what is being done and for what purpose.

Learn to think and turn on the brain, and you yourself can model what you like without waiting for my articles-lessons.

And we will begin to sew on the TOP pattern.

You ask: "Hey, why not dresses immediately?" I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle "Sewing tops and T-shirts - quickly and easily." So to be continued))) Let's go….

Successful sewing!

Olga Klishevskaya, specially for the site "Women's Conversations".

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	where to get the sleeve pattern

Stylish fitted sheath dress should be present in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the material chosen, this wardrobe detail can become both an attribute of a business wardrobe and a dress for going out.

It is sewn according to the basic pattern of the dress. The construction of the pattern for the base of the dress is an important step in the study of clothing design. This process requires care and sequence of actions, so I suggest watching a video on building a pattern for the base of a dress.

Video lesson:

Preparing for cutting

Before , how to build a pattern for a dress case, you need to take off the measurements you need for work. The required measurements with ready-made values ​​are given in the table for the sample. In the "Value" field you need to enter your own dimensions:

To avoid inaccuracies in taking measurements, I also attach a table of typical measurements that are used in the Italian cutting system. It can be downloaded for free from the link:

(Downloads: 138)

The system for taking measurements is no different from the standard rules. The Italian construction method allows you to achieve a close-fitting silhouette of the dress.

Also, for work, you will need a table of allowances for free fitting, which is given in the photo:

Commentary: to build a dress, we need a gain of 1 degree.

Building a pattern for the basis of a dress

So, the construction of the pattern begins with the setting of point A in the upper left corner of the sheet. Further, from this point downwards, we postpone the segment calculated by the formula: Size / 24 + 0.2cm. We put T.V. This distance will be equal to the depth of the neckline on the back.

Then again from point A we retreat down 4.5 cm and put point B1.

After that, we find the depth of the armhole and the position of t. C, that is, from t. A downwards you need to postpone a segment equal to Growth / 8 + Size / 24.

Next, we find the location of point D - the value of TPA, which we also put down from point A.

Now, from the obtained point D, we put down the value of the WB measure and get the point E.

We find the last point F by setting aside from point A a segment equal to the DP measure.

Now we mark the line of the neckline. To do this, from point A to the right we draw a segment that is equal to Size / 6. We put T. G.

Again from point A to the right we draw a line on which we mark point N. Distance AH = SHS / 2

We pass to t. C. To the right of it we set aside the line on which we find the position of t. C1. Segment CC1 = OG / 4 + 1/4 increase in freedom of fit (PSO).

Now from point D we also put off point D1 to the right, which is at a distance equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (dart) + 1/4 PSO.

We find the position of point E1, for this, to the right from point E, we postpone the segment, which is equal to the value of OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO.

Point F1 is at the same distance from point F as point E1 from point E, i.e. EE1 = FF1.

We connect points C1, D1, E1 and F1 with a smooth line. We have the side seam line ready.

Draw a line down from the point H. At the intersection with the segment CC1, we get T. I. At a distance of 4.5 cm from T. H on the same line, we put T. L. Points L and B1 are connected:

We extend line В1L to the right. We find on it the position of point L1. Distance В1L1 is equal to ШП / 2. Connect point G and point L1.

From point I along the HI line we measure 5 cm upwards, 0.3 cm to the right. We get t. M. Draw a smooth line, connecting t. L1, t. M and t. C1. This is the armhole line. From point L1 along the line of the armhole we measure down 9cm. We put a notch, which will be a control mark for stitching in the sleeve.

We turn to the design of the dart. To do this, we find the position of point R by dividing DD1 in half. From the resulting point, draw a perpendicular line up and down. From the place of intersection with CC1, we go down 2cm and set the point R1. Down from point R we go down by 14 cm and get point R2. On line DD1, lay off the segments RR3 = RR4 = 1.5 cm. With a straight line we connect point R1, point R3, point R2, point R4.

Back patterns are ready:

We start building the front half of the dress. Put the point A again, from which we put down the value of Height / 8 + Size / 24. Received t. C. This is the depth of the armhole.

Segment AD is equal to the value of TTP, segment DA1 is equal to the value of RTA.

We get point B, postponing from point A1 down the value of Size / 6 + 1cm.

We find the position of point G. It is located at a distance equal to Size / 6 to the left of point A1. Draw a bisector from the angle GА1В. Find the position B1 on the bisector. A1B1 = Size / 6 + 0.5cm. We draw the line of the neck, connecting point G, point B1, point B.

From point D along the line AD, we put down the value of the WB measure and put the point E. Next, we find the position of point F. AF = DP.

We continue straight line A1G to the left and put t.H. on it. Distance A1H is equal to ШС / 2 - 1cm.

To the left of point C at a distance that is equal to OG / 4 + 1/4 PSO, we put point C1.

From point D to the left, set aside point D1, which is located at a distance of the segment, which is equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (dart) + 1/4 PSO.

EE1 = OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO

We connect the found points with a smooth line and get the line of the side seam:

Draw a straight line from the point H downwards. At the point of intersection with CC1 we put point I. At a distance of 7.5 cm from point H we put point L.

Draw a straight line from point L to the left. Find the position of point L1. To do this, in the drawing of the back, we measure the segment GL1 and in the drawing of the front from point G we postpone the same segment until it intersects with the line drawn from point L.

The A1N segment is equal to the size of the VG measurement. To the left of point N we put point N, which is located at a distance of CG / 2.

On line GL1 we put point G1, having descended from point G down to a distance equal to Size / 10 + 0.5 cm.

Draw a perpendicular line to segment GL1 and place point G2 at a distance of 1.6 cm from point G1.

Draw a line between point G2 and point N1. Upward from point N1 we retreat 7.5 cm and put point N2. From this point we draw a perpendicular to the straight line G2N1 2 cm long.

We measure the length of the segment G2N1 and draw a line of the same length from point N1 so that it passes through the extreme point of the perpendicular. At the end we put the point G3.

In the drawing of the back, we measure the size of the segment GL1 and draw a straight line from point G in the drawing of the front of the same length, while this line must pass through points G2 and G3. At the end of the line we put point L2. Erase the line between points G2 and point G3.

We find the position of t. M on the segment IH. To do this, we retreat upward from point I by 5 cm. T. M1 is located from T. M to the left at a distance of 2 cm.

Now we draw a smooth line between point C1, point M1, point L2. This is the armhole line. From point L2 we go down 9cm and put a mark for stitching in the sleeves:

Let's move on to building a dart. To do this, we find the position of point R on the segment DD1. DR = NN1. Draw a straight line from point R up and down. On the line N1R from point N1 we retreat 2cm down and put point R1.

T. R2 is 10cm lower from T. R.

RR3 = RR4 = 1.5cm.

We connect the points R1, R4, R2, R3 and get a dart.

The pattern is ready.

In my opinion, this is the most understandable way to build a pattern. But it is worth considering that for different types of figures there are nuances. So, for example, when building a pattern for a children's dress, you should exclude the construction of darts in the drawing. And for women of large sizes, it will be necessary to make different additions to the freedom of fitting. Also a popular technique is the construction of a drawing according to Mueller.

Based on the basic pattern of a woman's dress, using simple modeling methods, you can achieve completely different dress styles.

In this case, manipulations can also be carried out with the sleeve of the product. So, for example, from an ordinary sheath dress, you can get a fashionable summer dress with a one-piece sleeve:

This dress model is very suitable for obese women, hiding figure flaws:

Using the skills of building a basic pattern, you can sew a light summer dress for a girl.

Another popular method is the construction of a pattern according to Zlachevskaya. Using her technique, all the individual features of the figure are taken into account when constructing a drawing. This method is considered the most accurate, excluding the subsequent fitting of the product.

For beginners, it will be useful to study the classic method of constructing a basic pattern for a dress and set-in sleeves. Moving from simple to complex, in the future you can learn how to model products with raglan sleeves and even outerwear with lining.

If you decide to master the art of self-tailoring, we recommend starting with a dress. Of course, aprons and pillowcases are necessary things, but, you see, a little boring. And having sewn a dress, you can immediately surprise your friends and colleagues with your skill, show off a new thing. For sewing, first of all, you need to learn how to build a base. And then you can already start modeling the dress based on the basic pattern. There are several methods for constructing patterns: author's, classic, using computer programs and manually on a sheet of paper. Let's try to understand the features of some of them.

Let's start building a pattern by making the necessary measurements. The numbers given in our master class are suitable for size 48:

• chest circumference (= OG) - 96 cm;
• circumference above the chest (= Ong) - 88 cm;
• waist circumference (= OT) - 76 cm;
• hip circumference (= OB) - 20 cm;
• front length to the waist (= DPT) - 47 cm;
• back length to waist (= DST) - 43 cm;
• shoulder length (= DP) - 12 cm;
• neck circumference (= ОШ) - 38 cm;
• the distance between the highest points of the chest (center of the chest) (RCH) - 22 cm;
• armhole depth (= GPr) - 20.5 cm;
• product length (= CI) - 1 m.

Important note

The above technique for constructing a pattern for the base of a dress is used with a chest circumference of 80 cm or more. For toddlers and teenage girls, the basis of the pattern is built in a slightly different way.

Free fit allowances

Before building, you need to decide what kind of dress - tight, semi-tight or loose, we are going to sew. Depending on the silhouette, we choose the size of the increase for free fit. Typical increment figures - see table below.

In our master class, we will build the base pattern for the adjacent silhouette. The amount of the increase for free fit along the semicircle of the chest will be 1.5 cm.

Design parameters

To build a drawing, we calculate:

• back width (= SHS): calculated using the formula 1⁄8 OG + 5.5 cm = 17.7 cm;
• the width of the armhole (= ShPR): calculated using the formula 1⁄8 OG - 1.5 cm = 10.5 cm;
• chest width (= WG): calculated using the formula 1⁄4 OG - 4 cm = 20 cm;
• the depth of the armhole (= GPr): the parameter is determined by measurement, checked by calculating according to the formula 0.1 OG + 10.5 cm = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value differs from the measured one, the average value is used for plotting.

Step-by-step construction of a pattern

In the upper left corner of the sheet, stepping back 10-15 cm down, mark point (∙) A. From it, draw down a vertical line 1 m long (= CI), mark (∙) D.

To the right of (∙) A, draw a horizontal line. Along it we set aside a value equal to 1⁄2 OG + 1.5 cm (= an increase in free fitting), put (∙) V.

We finish building the base rectangle, mark (∙) C.

Armhole line

From (∙) A, we put off in a straight line downwards ГПр + 0.5 cm (= an increase in free fitting, see the table above). We put down (∙) G. Draw a horizontal line from it, put (∙) Г1.

Along the line of the armhole from (∙) G we measure the AL plus 0 cm (= increase for free fitting), SPR plus 0.5 cm (= increase for free fitting), WG plus 1 cm.The total amount of increases is 0 + 0.5 + 1 = 1.5 cm. It is equal to the increase laid down above. From the set points we draw perpendiculars to the segment AB.

Waistline

From (∙) A put down DST, put (∙) T. Draw a perpendicular to the segment BC, mark at the intersection (∙) T1.

Hips line

Draw a horizontal line parallel to the waist line at a distance of 20 cm (= hip height). We mark (∙) Л and (∙) Л1.

Side line

From the center of the segment of the width of the armhole, draw down a perpendicular to the segment DC. We divide the segments of the auxiliary lines for the construction of the armhole into 4 equal sections. In the drawing, the division points are shown with red crosses.

Back collar roll-out

From (∙) A, set aside to the right side 1⁄6 OR + 0.5 cm = 6.8 cm. Set aside 2 cm upward (the value is constant for all sizes). We build a curved roll-out line.

Back shoulder

From the upper (∙) line of construction of the armhole, lay down 1.5 cm. Draw a straight line connecting (∙) 2 (roll-out of the neck of the back) and (∙) 1.5 (slope of the shoulder line). Along the drawn line, set aside the DP + 1 cm = 12 cm + 1 cm = 13 cm.When further stitching the shoulder seam, the DP of the back is slightly adjusted.

Armhole back

Draw the bisector of the lower left corner of the armhole, measure 2-2.5 cm along it. Draw the curved line of the armhole through (∙) 13, (∙) dividing the height of the armhole, (∙) 2 by the side line.

Raising the shelf

We put off from (∙) T1 upwards DPT, put (∙) W. From it we draw a horizontal line to the left until it intersects with the extended right line of the width of the armhole.

Roll-out of the neck of the front

From (∙) W we put aside 1⁄6 OSH + 0.5 cm = 6.8 cm to the left. Put 1⁄6 OSH + 1.5 cm = 7.8 cm downwards. We build a curved line of roll-out.

Front shoulder line to bust dart

From (∙) 6.8 (on the roll-out) to the left, we lay aside 4 cm, go down 1 cm (the value is constant for all sizes). We draw an inclined line.

From (∙) 1 we draw down the segment 1Г2. With this construction, the size of the segment Г1Г2 should be equal to 1⁄2 of the size of the RCH measurement, that is, 11 cm.As a result, we drew the right border of the chest dart.

Bust dart

From the center of the right border of the chest dart, lay 4 cm horizontally to the left (= POG - PONG = 48 cm - 44 cm = 4 cm). Through (∙) 4 we build the left border of the chest dart. It should be equal in length to the right.

Front shoulder line

Draw an auxiliary line with a dotted line from the top of the left border of the chest dart to the upper (∙) division of the left armhole line.

Along the dotted line, lay off 8 cm (= shoulder length: shoulder length to the right border of the dart = 12 cm - 4 cm). We go down the perpendicular by 2 cm (constant number for all sizes). We draw the line of the shoulder of the shelf.

From the lower (∙) shoulder, draw an auxiliary line with a dotted line to the lower (∙) division of the armhole line. We divide this segment in half.

Armhole shelf

We build the bisector of the lower right corner of the armhole, measure 2 cm along it.

From the central (∙) dotted line, we lay off 1 cm along the perpendicular to the right. Draw the curved line of the armhole through (∙) 2 (on the shoulder), (∙) 1, (∙) 2 (on the bisector) and on the side line.

How to calculate darts

Let's calculate the difference 1⁄2 OG - 1⁄2 OT = 48 - 38 cm = 10 cm.This value must be removed along the waist line in the darts. We will put a third in the side darts, the rest in the backs and a shelf, distributing 3 cm to the front part, and 4 cm to the back.

The size of the side darts is 10 cm: 3 = 3.3 cm. After rounding, we accept the value of 1.5 cm for the front and back.

Important note

The missing value for the hips is calculated as (OB - OT): 4 = (102 - 96): 4 = 1.5 cm. We measure this distance in both directions from the common lateral line, draw the side lines of the back and front.

Dart on the waist line on the back

We find the center of the segment along the waist line, draw a vertical up to the armhole line and down to the hip line. The upper point of the dart should not reach the armhole line 3-4 cm, the lower one is 2 cm above the hips line.The width of the dart is 4 cm.

Dart on the waist line on the front

Draw a perpendicular to the waist line through the top of the chest dart. From (∙) G2 we put 5-6 cm down, draw a dart 3 cm wide (see drawing above).

For kinky figures with a narrow waist, it makes sense to remove the excess fabric in the central seam of the back and one more dart.

In the previous drawing, these constructions are shown with blue lines. To build an additional dart, measure from the lower right corner of the armhole to the right side 3 cm and draw a dotted perpendicular down to the line of the hips. The upper point of the dart should not reach the armhole line 7-8 cm, the lower one is 1.5 cm above the hips line.The width of the dart is 2 cm.

We remove 1.0-1.5 cm along the central seam of the backrest, draw a curved line for the middle seam.

We reshoot the ready-made patterns.

The method of constructing the basic pattern of a women's dress according to Mueller

The cutting system, created more than 125 years ago by the German tailor Michael Müller, takes into account the individual characteristics of a person's figure, allows for precise construction of clothing patterns. The technique is not the easiest, but very accurate. According to the Mueller method, the body is divided into segments, the features of the figure are taken into account in the proportional calculation by deviations from the standard.

Consider, as an example, how to make the basic pattern of a straight dress.

When constructing, we will take into account the increments (= P) for free fitting for sizes:

• back armhole height - 2-3 cm;
• back width - 1.5-2.0 cm;
• armhole width - 2.5-3.5 cm;
• chest width - 1.5-2.0 cm.

To build the basis of a women's dress, we need to take measurements (we provide our data, you can build according to your own measurements):

• chest circumference (= OG) - 85 cm;
• waist circumference (= OT) - 62 cm;
• hip circumference (= OB) - 95 cm;
• back length to waist (= DTS) - 44 cm;
• product length (= CI) - 100 cm;
• chest height 1 (= VG 1) - 34 cm;
• length to the waist in front 1 (= accident 1) - 56 cm.

Let's carry out preliminary calculations for models with exhaust gas more than 80 cm:

• armhole height at the back (= VPr Z) ** = OG: 10 + 10.5 cm = 19 cm; VPr Z + P = 19 cm + 2 (3) cm = 19 cm + 2 cm = 21 cm;
• hip height (= WB) = VPR W + DST = 19 cm + 44 cm = 63 cm;
• neck width at the back (= Shsh Z) = OG: 20 + 2 cm = 85: 20 + 2 cm = 6.3 cm;
• chest height 2 (= VG 2) = VG 1 - Shsh 3 = 34 cm - 6.3 cm = 27.7 cm;
• front length to waist 2 (= road accident 2) = road accident 1 - Wsh 3 = 56 cm - 6.3 cm = 49.7 cm;
• back width (= SHS) ** = OG: 8 + 5.5 cm = 85: 8 + 5.5 cm = 16, 125 cm; Shs + P = 16.125 cm + 1.5 (2.0) cm = 18 cm;
• armhole width (= ShPR) ** = OG: 8 - 1.5 cm = 85: 8 - 1.5 cm = 9.125 cm; SPR + P = 9.125 cm + 2.5 (3.5) cm = 12 cm;
• chest width (= WG) ** = OG: 4 - 4 cm = 85: 4 - 4 cm = 17.25 cm; WD + P = 17.25 cm + 1.5 (2.0) cm = 19 cm.

The values ​​indicated by **, when completing the drawing, are taken with allowances for free fitting (P).

Important note

For a well-formed drawing, the sum ((VPr 3 + P) + (SHS + P) + (ShPR + P) + (SHG + P)) should equal (OG: 2 + P) = (OG: 2 + 5.0 ( 7.5) cm).

We need a sheet of tracing paper with a width of at least (OG: 2 + 0.3) m and a length of at least (CI + 15 cm).

From the upper right corner we retreat down 10 cm, then to the left 5 cm, mark the point (∙) O. Draw a straight line down. Along it, we postpone OG = VPr Z + P = 21 cm; FROM = DTS = 44 cm; OB = WB = 63 cm; OH = CI = 1000 cm.

Through the data (∙) we draw horizontal lines: through (∙) O - top line, through (∙) G - chest line, through (∙) T - waist line, through (∙) B - hips line, through (∙) H - bottom line.

From (∙) B to the left, set aside 2 cm, put (∙) B1. From (∙) O through (∙) B1 we draw a straight line to the intersection with the lower line. We designate (∙) the intersections of this straight line with horizontal lines, as shown in the drawing. We have built the center line of the back.

To the left of (∙) Г1 we put aside Г1Г2 = ШС + П = 18 cm. Then we successively measure Г2Г3 = 2/3 (ШПр + П) = 8 cm; G3G4 = 10 cm + 13 cm; Г4Г5 = 1/3 (ШПр + П) = 4 cm; G5G6 = WG + P = 19 cm.

We control G6G4 + G3G1 = (OG: 2 + P) = 49 cm.

Draw vertical lines through the marked (∙) - see drawing. The line through (∙) Г6 will be the middle line of the front.

At the intersection of the vertical through (∙) Г2 and the horizontal through (∙) О mark (∙) О1.

From (∙) О to the left, we put aside О2 = Шш 3 = 6.3 cm O3. Draws a curved rollout line.

From (∙) О1 we measure downwards О1О4 = 1.0 (1.5) cm. From (∙) О3 we draw a straight line through М О4. On it to the left we measure O4O5 = 1.5 (2.0) cm (for small sizes), 1.0 (1.5) cm (for medium sizes), 0 (1) cm (for large sizes).

In the middle of the segment G2O4 we put (∙) P1. Draw a horizontal line through it, set aside P1P1 ’= 1 cm to the left. Put (∙) P2 in the center of the segment P1G2. Draw a horizontal line through it. At its intersection with the vertical from (∙) Г5 mark (∙) П4. To the left of (∙) P2, put aside P2P3 = 1.3 (1.5) cm (in direct proportion to the size). From (∙) O5 through P1'P3 to (∙) G3 draw a curved line of the armhole so that its beginning is perpendicular to the shoulder line.

We put down (∙) T1 and (∙) T2 on the waist line. Along the chest line to the right of (∙) G6 we measure G6G7 = OG: 10 + 0.5 cm = 9 cm.We draw a vertical, at its intersection with the waist line we put (∙) T4. From it we measure upwards T4O7 = RTP 2 = 49.7 cm. From (∙) O7 we go down to O7G8 = VG 2 = 27.7 cm.

From (∙) G5 we ascend in a straight line to G5O6 = G2O4 - (1.0 ... 1.5 cm). As the shoulder slope increases, we increase the subtracted value.

From (∙) Г8 and (∙) Г5 through М О7 and М О6 we make radius notches. The values ​​of the radii Г8О7 and Г5О6.

From (∙) O6 along the arc line we measure O6O8 = Og: 20 - (0.5 ... 1.0) = 3.25 cm. From (∙) O8 we draw an arc with a radius of (O3O5 - 1 cm) = 14 cm. we will make 1 cm lines for planting. At the intersection of arcs, we put (∙) O9.

We draw a straight line from (∙) O8 to (∙) P4. In the center of the segment we put (∙) P5. From it to the left along the perpendicular, set aside 1 cm, mark (∙) P6. From (∙) O8 to (∙) G4 through (∙) P6 and (∙) P4 draw a curved line. In this case, at first it should be perpendicular to the shoulder line.

From (∙) O7 we draw a perpendicular to the middle line of the shelf, put (∙) O10. From it to the right we measure 6.3 cm (= О10О11 = ШШ Ш). For large values ​​of GO, the width of the rollout is О10О11 = ШШЗ З - 0.5 cm. The depth of the rollout is 7.5 cm (= О10О12 = ШШЗ З + 1 ... 2 cm). We draw a segment O10G5. Along it we lay aside О10О13 = ШШ З + 0.5 ... 0.8 cm. We connect (∙) О12, (∙) О13, (∙) О11 with a curved line.

From (∙) О9 we construct the segment О9О14 = О11О7 = 3 cm.Connecting (∙) О14 and (∙) Г8, we get the right border of the tuck. From (∙) Г8 upwards we measure Г8О15 = Г8О14. We draw a segment O11O15.

To build a dart on the back from (∙) O3 along the shoulder line to the left, set aside O3O16 = 3 ... 5 cm. We lower the perpendicular to the line of the shoulder blades, put (∙) L. If you are building the basis of a dress for a figure with convex shoulder blades and a pronounced stoop, then along the drawn line needs to be cut. The piece moves apart, a dart is formed. In our case, we will not do this, since there is no need.

Let's mark the control points for the sleeves. On the back, Kc = P3. On the front from (∙) Г5 upwards, we measure Г5 = 1⁄4 (Шпр + П) = 2 cm.

To construct the side lines, lay the back and front lines along the waistline, respectively, T2T5 = 1 ... 2 cm and T3T6 = 0.5 ... 1 cm. Draw the lateral lines. At their intersection with the hip line, mark (∙) B2 and (∙) B3. The intersection of the hip line with the middle line of the front is marked (∙) B4.

We control that (B4B3 + B2B1) is more (1/2 OB + 3 cm). If this is not the case, we increase the expansion of the details along the side lines.

From (∙) H1, perpendicular to the midline of the back, draw a straight line. Its intersection with the lateral line is denoted by (∙) Н2. From it we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the front side line, put (∙) H3. We draw a smooth line of the bottom of the dress.

Finally, we need to take into account the offset of the shoulder line to get the perfect pattern. For the front, lower the shoulder line by 1 cm, for the back - raise it by the same amount.

The construction of the pattern for the base of the dress according to the Mueller system is completed.

Cut according to the system of 10 measures

The patterns made according to the technique drawn up by Irina Paukshte are very accurate, the resulting products fit perfectly on the figure.

The Paukste cutting system has been very popular among beginners and professional cutters for many years.

This simple way of constructing a pattern has features:

• just ten measurements are enough. In this case, the accuracy of measurements is of particular importance. Instructions on how to correctly take basic measurements can be seen in the video with Irina Paukshte;

• designing the main pattern does not require complex calculations, it can be done quickly enough;
• the Paukshte cutting system is an ideal choice for constructing a dress pattern with sleeves, since the articulation of the armholes is very precise. In this case, the pattern of the sleeve is drawn directly in the armhole;
• the bust dart is calculated using the residual method, that is, the drawing of the remaining parts automatically displays the required dart width;
• ease of modeling - Paukshte's patterns can be easily changed for a different sleeve shape or silhouette of a woman's dress;
• the technique takes into account the optimal increase in free fitting - for elastic fabrics and when sewing corsets, as well as for sizes 44 and less, the increase is 2 cm.For all other cases, it should be at least 3 cm.

On the Internet, you can find a series of lessons by Irina Paukshte on building a base mesh, patterns for the back and shelves, calculations for the armhole.

Using a computer program to accurately construct a basic pattern

Let's figure out the basic terms used in the program.

The main constructive lines of the dress are shown in the figure below.

The measurements required for construction are indicated by letters. Semi-grips of the chest, waist and hips - we enter into the program under the letter C. These are the measurements that are divided vertically by the axis of symmetry.

We write down the full girths that cannot be divided. We designate them with the letter O. The girths of the arms, legs, ankles, and wrists are fully taken into account.

The rest of the measurements are used in full and are designated by the letters L (= length), W (= width), H (= height).

Let's consider in more detail the measurements required for construction.

Tie a lace at the waist before taking measurements. Elena Fomenkova recommends giving allowances for free fitting in half of the drawing.

We measure:

• Cr 1 - half-girth of the chest 1. Measure by the bulges of the shoulder blades, through the armpits, closing over the chest;
• Cr 2 - half-girth of the chest 2. Measured similarly to the previous one, but through the protruding points of the chest;
• h is the distance from the center of the chest to the level of the Cg 1 measure;

• Prg - an increase in free fit to 1⁄2 of the total chest measurement. Depends on the silhouette and is selected from 0 to 3 cm;
• Dpl is the length of the dress. Measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the desired length;
• Prshgr - an increase in free fit to the width of the chest. Depends on the silhouette and is selected from 0 to 1 cm;
• Prshsp - an increase in free fit along the width of the back. Is 7 ... 1.5 cm;
• Dst - the length of the back to the waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam;
• Dst 7 - the length of the back to the waist from the 7th cervical vertebra;
• Дпт - the length of the front to the waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam through the protruding point of the chest.

• Prshg - an increase in the width of the neck. selectable from 0 to 4 cm;
• Ssh - 1⁄2 the girth of the base of the neck. We measure at the place where the neck of the dress passes;
• Дп - shoulder length;
• Br - from the highest (∙) shoulder to the protruding point of the chest;
• Vgk - see the figure below;

• Tsg - the distance between the centers of the chest;

• Vprs - the height of the back armhole;
• Vprp - the height of the front armhole;
• Vprb - the height of the side armhole;

• Shs - back width;
• Wg - chest width;
• St - 1⁄2 waist circumference;
• Prt - an increase in the waist. Selectable from 2 to 4 cm;
• Sat - 1⁄2 hip girth;
• Prb - increase in the hips. Selectable from 1 to 10 cm;
• W is the sum of darts at the waist. The calculated value is defined as the difference (Cr 2 + Prg) - (St + Prt);
• Vvspb - the height of the dart of the back of the hips;
• Wb - hips height;
• Vvpb - the height of the dart of the front of the hips.

Based on these measurements, a basic pattern for a dress is built in the "Valentine" program or manually, on a sheet of paper.

Consider the step-by-step construction of a pattern on paper.

Main mesh

Draw vertical lines at the edges of the sheet at a distance of Cr 2 + Prg. These are the midlines of the front and back. We put point A2 above the middle line of the front. From it, along the perpendicular to the left, we measure 25 cm, finding the position of the highest point of the front.

Having measured Dpt from point A2 downwards, we find point T1. From it to the left we draw a perpendicular line to the middle of the back, putting point T at the intersection.

From this (∙) we set aside the values ​​of Dst 7 and Dst.

We put (∙) A6 and A. From A6 we measure Dpl down, mark N. From it we draw a perpendicular to the center line of the front, set H1. The grid is built.

Neck

Horizontally from point A, set aside 1⁄2 of the neck width (= 1/3 Csh), set A3. Set aside the same value on the gauge of the front from A2, set A4. From A2 downwards we put aside the width of the neck + 1.5 cm. We put A5.

We draw the lines of the neck А3А6 and А4А5.

Front shoulder line and bust dart

We calculate the solution of the tuck Cr 2 - Cr 1 = h.

From A2 we measure down Bg, mark A7.

From it to the left along the perpendicular - Tsg, point A8. Section А8А4 - the first line of the tuck. From A8 we put h upwards, we put the designation h.

To the left of h we measure the calculated tuck solution, mark A9.

From A8 through h we draw the second line of the tuck, mark A10. From it we make an arc notch with a radius of Dp + Prshp. We make the second notch with a radius of Brc from (∙) A8. At the intersection of arcs, mark (∙) A11. This will be the lowest point of the shoulder seam. We draw from it a line of the shoulder seam to A10.

Back shoulder line

From point A downwards we put off the value responsible for the slope of the shelf. It is equal to (Br - Brk). We mark (∙) A12. From it we draw a horizontal line about 30 cm long to the right. From (∙) A3 we make a notch with a radius (Dp + Prshsp + rr darts). We calculate the solution of the tuck as 0.13 Dp. Round the result to the nearest whole number. At the intersection of the arc with the horizontal, we put (∙) A14. At a distance of 3.5 cm (constant value for all sizes) from A3, set (∙) A15. From it we measure along the line the tuck solution (= 0.13 Dp), (∙) A17.

Set aside the length of the dart down from A15. For all sizes, it is 9 cm, set A16. We draw segments A15A16 and A16A17. Extend the first segment upwards by 3 mm, (∙) A18.

Along the straight line А16А17, we set aside a segment equal to А1А18. Let's complete the construction of the shoulder seam by connecting A3A18 and A19A14.

Armhole

From the midline of the back, we set aside 1⁄2 Shs + an increase in free fit. From the waist line we measure up Vprsp. We denote (∙) the intersection of A21.

On the shelf, we find a similar one (∙) at the intersection of Vprp and size (Wg + Prshg). We have a dart. Therefore, we measure the formula at the level h and add the size to the result (h - A9). We draw a stroke. Bottom we do Vprp. At the intersection - (∙) A23.

To find the lower (∙) armholes, set aside the Vprb from the waist level. Divide the distance between the verticals drawn through A21 and A23 in half. The point of intersection of the Vprb measurement and the middle vertical will be denoted by A26.

This armhole is suitable for a sleeveless sheath dress. For models with sleeves, increase the depth of the armhole by 1 ... 1.5 cm.

Side seams

At the intersection of the perpendicular from A26, put A30 on the bottom of the dress. At the intersection of the perpendicular with the waistline, we put A25.

We measure Wb down from A25, set A31.

Let's find the difference between the volume of the hips and the volume of the chest using the formula (Sb + Prb) - (Cr2 + Prg). We postpone 1⁄2 of the result on both sides of A31. To correct the waistline, raise it at the side seams by 1 cm, set A27. Draw lines TA27 and A27T1.

Darts at the waist

We calculate the watts according to the formula suggested above. Distribute the result between the back (1/2), side (1/4) and front (1/4).

From A27 we put aside 1⁄2 darts in both directions.

In the center of TA28 we put A32. From it, vertically in both directions, we measure the heights Vvsl = A32 - A37 and Vvspb = A32 - A38.

We draw a waist dart of the back А40А37А39А38.

From A8 we draw a perpendicular to A29T1, point A33. We descend along the line by 2 cm (for all sizes), point A34. From line Т1А29 at a distance Ввпб we extend А8А33, point А41.

From A33 in both directions we measure 1⁄2 of the front darts, we get A35 and A36. We build a dart of the front A41A35A34A36. We carry out the side seam of the back A26A28A43A45 and the front A26A29A42A44. The basic pattern is now complete.

Additionally, the construction can be viewed from the video.

An example of constructing a pattern for a knitted dress

To build a pattern, we will use the European cutting system recommended by the Sewing Master website.

The pattern of a dress made of elastic fabrics has a simplified look, since there are no darts in it.

We take measurements as described for the previous technique.

We will take into account the peculiarity of knitted fabrics to stretch in the longitudinal and transverse directions by a negative increase in free fitting. For a correct fit of the product, the increase in the half-girth of the chest will be minus 2 cm. We divide them equally by the back and the front.

Since the method of constructing a pattern is similar to the previous technique, we will restrict ourselves to formulas for calculations and step-by-step drawings.

Back

AG = Vprz + increase.

Am = Dst 2 + increase.

TB = 18 cm (for all sizes).

Draw horizontals.

AA1 = 2.5 cm (for all sizes).

AA2 = 1/3 Ssh + 5 ... 7 mm.

AA3 = Shp + increase.

GG2 = 1⁄2 (Cr 2 + 1⁄2 Pr).

G1P1 = 0.15G1P.

G1P2 = 0.4 G1P.

P2P3 = 1.2 cm (for all solutions).

TT1 = 1⁄2 (St + 1 cm).

BB1 = 1⁄2 (Sat - 1cm).

Front

BB1 = 1/3 Ssh + 5 ... 7 mm.

G3G5 = 1⁄2 (Cr 2 + 1⁄2 Pr).

G4P6 = 0.07G4G5.

G4P7 = 0.35G4G5.

P7P9 = 2 cm.

T2T3 = 1⁄2 (St + 1 cm).

B2B3 = 1⁄2 (Sat - 1cm).

We measure 1 cm down from H2.

The pattern is ready!

An example of building a basic pattern for a fitted silhouette dress

For clarity, we will use the drawings of the site "Shay with me".

We take measurements. The designations of the measurements on the Shay with Me website coincide with the designations in our previous descriptions, so it will not be difficult for you to figure it out.

Similar to the previous description, we will restrict ourselves to formulas and step-by-step drawings.

We postpone the height dimensions:

• AH = Di;
• AT = Dts + Pdts;
• AG = Vprz + Pspr;
• TB = Lb = 20 cm;
• TT '= 1.5 cm.

G'G = Cr3 + Pg.

The width of the back and front on the Shay with Me website is calculated using the formulas:

• back: G'G2 = Shs + 0.2Pg;
• before: Shg + 0.1Pg + 0.5 (Cr2 - Cr1).

G2G4 = G4G3.

Back

AU = 0.4Dts;

AA2 = 1 / 3Csh + Pshgs;

* A2A21 = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs.

The shoulder slope on the Shay with Me site is found using two radii:

* R1 = A2P1 = Shp + 1.5 cm (tuck) + 0.5 cm;

• R2 = T'P1 = Vpks + Pdts;

From A2 we measure 4 cm (for all sizes), downwards - 12 cm. The solution of the dart is 1.5 cm. The site "Shay with me" emphasizes that the length of the sides of the dart should be equal.

If the dart during further modeling will be transferred to the side, then we extend it to the line of the shoulder blades.

Front

Lowering the waist line:

• 40-42 p .: 0.5 cm;
• 44-48 p .: 0.7 ... 1.0 cm;
• 50-56 p .: 1.2 ... 2.0 cm;
• 58 p. and more: more than 2 cm.

T1T11 = 1 cm.

Н1Н11 = 1 cm.

T11A11 = Dtp = Pdtp.

А11А12 = 1 cm.

A12A3 = AA2.

A12A4 = A12A3.

G1G5 = Tsg + 0.5 cm.

A3G6 = Bg + 1⁄2 Pdtp.

A3A5 = 2 (Cr2 - Cr1).

G6A5 = A3G6.

We construct the slope of the shoulder using two radii:

* A5P5 = A2P1;

* G6P5 = Vpkp + 1⁄2 Pdtp.

The construction of the armhole - see the drawing above.

Let's check the width of the front on the line through P6.

Shp = Shg + 0.1Pg.

We check this size by construction. We outline the entrance to the pocket.

We make the equal length of the segments G'G4 = B'B21.

We expand the hips by the amount (Sat + Pb) - G'G1, setting aside its equal parts in each direction.

The total size of the darts - T'T1 - (St + Pt) is divided into four parts:

• middle seam;

• side seams;

• back;

• front.

Draw the bottom line.

Ready-made dress patterns for a fitted silhouette

For beginners, we offer ready-made dress patterns.

You need to take measurements and compare them with the ones below (Russian sizes are given in brackets):

• Size 36 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 82 - 66 - 88 cm (= dress size 44);
• Size 38 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 86 - 70 - 92 cm (= size 46 dresses);
• Size 40 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 90 - 74 - 96 cm (= dress size 48);
• Size 42 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 94 - 78 - 100 cm (= dress size 50);
• 44 size (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 98 - 82 - 104 cm (= dress size 52);
• Size 48 (OG - FROM - OB): 106 - 90 - 112 cm (= dress size 54);
• Size 50 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 110 - 94 - 116 cm (= dress size 58);
• Size 52 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 114 - 98 - 120 cm (= dress size 60);
• Size 54 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 118 - 102 - 124 cm (= 64 size dresses);
• Size 56 (OG - FROM - ABOUT): 122 - 106 - 128 cm (= dress size 68).

Currently, handicrafts have gained unheard-of popularity, no matter what it is: a soft toy or a woman's dress. Many people ask themselves the question: why sew clothes when you can either buy in a store or ask for help from a professional atelier? The answer is simple: A hand-made thing will definitely be of high quality and unique, you can be 100% sure that no one has a second such dress, which means that the chances of meeting a double on the street are zero.

It is easy and simple to sew a dress with your own hands

At first glance, it may seem that tailoring a dress is an incredibly difficult task, which is not given to everyone. However, after looking closely and typing the phrase in the search: We sew our own dresses for beginners patterns you can be sure that there is nothing difficult in this and in just a couple of evenings you can easily sew a beautiful and stylish dress. Simple sewing patterns for beginners will turn the process into an exciting game, and the process of sewing will seem not as scary as it was perceived before!

Pros of a self-made dress:

1. Truly exclusive
2. Custom design can be made
3. Your creativity develops
4. The opportunity to earn money on your hobby
5. Significant savings in time and budget when buying new clothes.

As you can see, the dress, and indeed the clothes made with your own hands, have more advantages than disadvantages than purchased ones.

How to sew a dress with your own hands for beginners? Patterns below

There is nothing better in the heat than a beautiful, bright, weightless dress. But what if you sew it yourself?

But before taking on this difficult task, an amateur will have many questions: how to build a pattern for a dress for beginners? How to make a basic pattern for beginners? Which fabric to choose for your first piece? How to sew a summer dress? We are ready to answer these many questions in order. Any dress model is a "case" perfectly fitted to your body, and small changes (like a dropped sleeve or a slightly looser waist will make your image more interesting) do not be afraid to experiment, because now there are a great many master classes on the net. However, there are several general rules that should be strictly followed:

1. The fabric is always marked on the seamy side.
2. As a material for the pattern, you can use tracing paper or plain paper.
3. Before you trace the template, you should pin the clipping with pins so that everything works out neatly.
4. Spreading the fabric on a large, level surface (such as a huge table, large floor) will help to neatly cut the desired piece.
5. Remember to finish the hem and edges of the garment at the end of your sewing work.

Taking into account all these simple rules, you will get a light and simple dress at the exit, just what you need for hot weather.

The shops offer a wide variety of beautiful summer clothes. But the best solution would be to make the outfit yourself and get unreal pleasure from the process. The first and most important step is choosing your fabric. It should be light and flowing. Cotton or silk works great (silk is more difficult to work with, though)

• How to take measurements from your figure (this is what will affect how the dress will fit on you in the future) The following body parts are required for measuring: waist, shoulders, hips and, if desired, arms.
• Draw a pattern according to your measurements on the fabric. Building a base pattern is the most understandable way for beginners = look and choose the most p
• Cut carefully.
• Stitch the details on a sewing machine, however, you can sew on your hands, then the process will take much longer.
• Process the edges of the finished product, steam.

This is a general algorithm for sewing a summer dress with your own hands.

Blouse patterns for beginners simple DIY patterns?

What is the simplest dress? That's right, two sewn rectangles of fabric, with slots for the arms and head.

However, even this miracle can be made neatly and beautifully if you remove the standard measurements from the model, which will form the basis of the future masterpiece.

How to make a basic pattern for beginners

BASIC MEASURES (WITHOUT THEM IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO SEW THE PRODUCT)

• OG - 96
• OT - 75
• OB - 101

BACK MEASURES

• Dst (back length to waist) - 41
• Shsp (back width) - 35
• Sh shoulder - 12

Front measurements.

1. Dpt (front length to waist) - 43.5
2. VH (chest height) - 26.5
3. CG (cent of breast) - 18
4. Vgk (oblique chest height) - 24
5. SHG (chest width) - 37
6. Гп (armhole depth) - 20

Remember that the side seams must absolutely match, only then you will get a neat and beautiful product.

How to sew a baby dress with your own hands for beginners patterns

If our visitors have little princesses, then closer to the vacation season, the question of how to dress young beauties becomes relevant. By typing in any search engine patterns of children's dresses for beginners simple do-it-yourself patterns You will be surprised by the abundance of all kinds of styles, patterns and master classes, choose the most suitable option for yourself.

The algorithm for sewing a dress for girls is exactly the same as for adults, although their delicate skin requires only natural and high-quality fabric.

How to sew a dress to the floor with your own hands for beginners patterns

A floor-length dress looks beautiful and romantic, this is the best choice for young girls, because such clothes allow you to emphasize grace and lightness. For sewing, you can use absolutely any elegant fabric.

For beginners, perhaps the best choice would be viscose knitwear and, of course, a standard set of a needlewoman, as well as an overlock, so that the edges of the finished product look as even as possible. Many of these models do not have a pattern, but novice craftswomen should use a template in their work.

How to sew a do-it-yourself sheath dress for beginners patterns

The sheath dress is nothing more than a second skin that must be tailored to each individual's unique measurements. This work requires a lot of diligence and diligence from the fashion designer and the tailor, because it is quite difficult to achieve that the dress fits perfectly, but a beginner can try his hand and sew a simple, straight dress, based on exact measurements.

Dress patterns for beginners, simple DIY patterns ALL THIS is a great opportunity to try new handicrafts, find your hobby and possibly a new source of income, because all girls and women (and sometimes young princesses) love to dress up in beautiful clothes. Now you have replenished the knowledge base that will allow you to make truly exclusive and good clothes both for yourself and for your friends. Patterns of summer dresses for beginners simple patterns with your own hands
Ten years ago, we could not even imagine that we would again sew clothes for ourselves, and not buy them in stores and supermarkets. Nevertheless, the number of people preferring things of their own manufacture is growing.

If you are not in the mood to spend money on magazines, or prefer electronic sources of information to paper, you are not losing. By entering queries into the search engine:

Why sew clothes yourself?

There are many reasons why women again sit down at sewing machines, as in the 90s and earlier. Yes, as before, some of the hostesses do it in order to save money: to use a fabric that has been lying idle for a long time or to alter an unfashionable thing from a still strong material. As a rule, this is relevant for those whose budget has suffered significantly due to the economic situation in recent years.

Fortunately, the desire to save money isn't the only thing that motivates women to sew in 2016. A much more common reason for this now is to create something special for yourself, not like others. Someone leaves an order for such an exclusive to professional craftsmen, and someone does it on their own. The latter option, of course, carries with it risks, but if you are successful, the clothes made with your own hands become truly loved.

A considerable part of beautiful ladies resort to independent sewing in order to be able to wear dresses, skirts and blouses that fit exactly to the figure. After all, modern stores offer customers a variety of clothing models (of different colors, textures, styles), but all of them, as a rule, are tailored for women with standard hourglass figures (thin waist with approximately the same chest and hips) and rectangle "(the waist is not pronounced, the difference between the main volumes is minimal). It is more difficult for pronounced "pears" (the hips are much wider than the shoulders), "inverted triangles" (the thighs are much narrower than the shoulders) and "apples" (they have a noticeable tummy) to choose something that does not focus on the imbalances in the figure.

Where to start if you want to sew clothes?

Convinced of the seriousness of your own intentions, take care of the means of production, the main of which is the sewing machine. If you have it, check its serviceability and, if necessary, contact the master. If you don't have a car, get one. When it is better to be guided not by the principles "the more expensive, the better" and "the more famous the brand, the longer it will serve," but by the technical characteristics and reviews of real people.

For example, it is fundamentally important, when purchasing a sewing machine, to understand what types of fabric you will be processing on it. Not every machine can handle thick coats or leather. Also, not all devices are suitable for sewing knitwear, thin tulle fabrics, and so on.

Then, having chosen a certain number of cars suitable for you according to the characteristics, read reviews about them. They can be found on specialized review sites, needlewomen forums, as well as on resources such as Yandex.Market.

It is also necessary to take care of the purchase of such things as tailor's scissors, measuring tape, pins, chalk, and so on.

When all the funds are ready, it is worth moving on to buying materials: fabric, threads, necessary accessories. If this is your first time deciding to sew, you should not take the most expensive one. Start with budget options.

What to sew first and where to get the patterns?

Perhaps, novice needlewomen should not immediately take on products with a complex cut, from capricious fabrics: coats, shirts, trousers. Relatively simple pieces such as straight-cut or pencil skirts and casual dresses are best suited for debut.

Patterns for future outfits can be found in several sources. For example, in sewing and sewing magazines, the most famous of which is, of course, Burda. As a rule, such publications contain not only intricate models, but also detailed instructions on how to how to sew a simple summer dress with your own hands for beginners... Here you will also find materials about how to sew a baby dress with your own hands for beginners, patterns men's clothing, in general, having accumulated magazine issues over several years, you can get a full-fledged textbook on cutting and sewing.

Handicraft books are also traditionally popular. A significant part of them is devoted to just inexperienced seamstresses. So, on the shelves of bookstores you can find publications containing recommendations for a specific type of product: “ We sew a dress with our own hands patterns for beginners», « DIY dress: easy and simple to sew. For beginners" etc.

There are also thick books, almost encyclopedias, in which you can find advice on how to sew anything from an apron to a coat. They may be called " We sew ourselves. For beginners. Patterns and recommendations "or" Dressing the family ourselves: a guide to sewing all types of clothing. "

If the book contains not only a description of the manufacturing algorithm of the product and small illustrations of the details that need to be designed, but also full-size patterns, this is usually said right on the cover. Pay attention to the publications with the titles "Patterns of summer dresses for beginners", "Simple patterns. Now you can sew everything with your own hands ”,“ How to sew a dress with your own hands? Pattern and Models "," Simple patterns of summer dresses and sundresses for beginners "or, for example," Patterns of children's clothing for beginners. Simple patterns with your own hands. "

To make sure that the book really has patterns in its composition, you need to flip through it. And when ordering books on the Internet, choose those stores that add photos of the content and sheets from it to the page of each edition. By the way, such advanced trading platforms often allow you to leave reviews for books. It will also be useful to read them, so as not to be mistaken with the choice.

If the article of any resource turned out to be successful about, for example, how to sew a dress with your own hands for beginners, patterns were also quite applicable to reality - do not be lazy, save the link to the site in bookmarks. Observing this rule every time, you can accumulate a whole selection of links, following which, you will receive high-quality "recipes" for clothes.

Summer dress pattern for beginners

Of course, within the framework of one article, it is impossible to give as much information on cutting and sewing as a specialized website, book or magazine filing can provide. However, by reading our text, you are guaranteed to benefit from it. And it will be not only theoretical, but also practical. So, we present to your attention the instructions on how how to sew a summer dress with your own hands for beginners, patterns we will give you too!

Beachwear has always been considered the simplest cut. On vacation by the sea or river, you don't need much. Nice colors, a loose or semi-fitted silhouette, a small sleeve to cover the shoulders prone to burning - these are the basis for the success of a beach dress.

In our example, a stylish dress with a V-neck and a drawstring at the waist is made in a juicy yellow color, but you can choose another one. Brown, red or young greens are perfect.

The first thing we start with is construction of a base pattern. The clearest way for beginners- building on the model. In the diagram below, you will see a reduced pattern of a beach dress for size 46-48 and height 160-170 centimeters. If you are shorter or taller, slimmer or fuller, it is difficult to how to build a dress pattern for beginners, should not arise either.

In order for the dress to fit exactly on the figure, remember that the length of the chest line (in the pattern it is 25 cm) should be a quarter of the girth of your bust. So, for a girl with a chest volume of 90 cm, 27.5 cm should be set aside in the drawing.The same principle applies to the lines of the waist and hips: their length on the pattern will be equal to a quarter of the real volume + allowance. If you want the dress to be more spacious in the lower body, add two or three instead of one centimeter.

Try not to overdo the cutout depth. It is always possible to increase it, but to decrease it can be problematic.

To make the drawstring, take a piece of fabric with a length equal to the girth of the dress at the waist. Sew on the right side, tucking the edges inside, and iron. Then make holes for the cord and overcast them. After that, you can thread the cord.

When sewing the shoulder seams, leave room for the cords and stretch them as well. This will allow you to play with the shoulder line and change the character of the dress depending on the conditions and mood.

We hope now you are convinced that it is easy and simple to sew a dress with your own hands. Having successfully finished sewing a beach dress, you have learned that building a basic pattern for beginners is not such a big problem. And this means looking for “how to make a basic pattern for beginners”, “how to sew a dress with your own hands for beginners”, “how to sew a simple straight dress with your own hands for beginners”, “how to sew a straight dress with your own hands”, “how to cut straight dress for beginners "," how to sew a straight dress with your own hands for beginners, patterns "are no longer necessary.

It is enough to sew a dress with your own hands once - the patterns and models will no longer seem like a Chinese letter. Simple patterns of dresses for beginners will not cause much difficulty, which means that soon it will be possible to realize the wildest fantasy from the freshest magazine or book.

After practicing on picky fabrics and silhouettes, you can proceed to more capricious ones: silk, woolen and others.

We wish you good luck in all your endeavors! Be unique in your own outfits!

Every woman's wardrobe should have a little black dress, an outfit for the office, everyday walks with children, as well as an original version for a banquet. The prices for dresses are quite high today. And not every woman wants to wear an outfit that was made in many copies. In order to always look original and not spend a lot of money for this, you just need to learn how to sew. Moreover, the basis of the dress pattern is built quite simply.

What parameters is the drawing based on?

In order to sew a thing according to the figure, you need to know four basic things. This is the height, as well as the girth of the hips, waist and chest. If the measurements are taken correctly, the construction of the pattern for the base of the dress will not take much time. Additionally, it is necessary to measure such parameters as the girth of the neck, the length of the back to the waist, the length of the product, as well as the length of the shoulder. All these measurements should be taken under maximum illumination using a centimeter tape.

To build a drawing, almost all parameters will need to be divided by two. The fact is that the patterns are laid out on a fabric folded in half. This means that on paper you will have to draw half of the back and half of the front.

For those who draw a drawing for the first time, it is better to purchase graph paper in advance. Even small deviations can cause defects in the finished product. Special markup allows you to draw a sharper drawing. The construction of the pattern for the base of the dress is made on a scale of 1: 1. In advance, it is necessary to prepare a high-quality ruler, a soft simple pencil, a washing eraser and templates (a special ruler with smoothly curved edges).

Base Mesh Creation

In order to build a pattern for the base of the dress, it is necessary to draw a base grid - these are the lines from which you will have to build on in the future. Initially, it is necessary to draw a straight vertical line, which will be equal to the length of the finished dress +10 cm. At the top of the drawing it is necessary to put point A and measure the length of the finished product from it. Point E is placed at the bottom of the line. The distance from point A to point C is the length of the back to the waist. Distance AB is equal to the depth of the armhole. The CD distance is 16-18 cm (for height from 155 to 170, respectively).

Long perpendicular lines should be drawn from the main points on graph paper. The width of the base mesh will be equal to the half-girth of the chest. From point B it is necessary to measure this parameter and put point B1. We measure the same distance from the rest of the points and set points A1, C1, D1 and E1, respectively. The baseline grid is now complete. Based on these lines, it will be possible to quickly build a pattern for the base of the dress.

Back pattern construction

The dress pattern consists of three main elements. This is the back, front (front) and sleeve. The backrest is the easiest to construct. Initially, we pay attention to the parameter of the half-girth of the hips. Divide this number by two and measure the resulting distance from point D. Set point D12.

Next, you need to determine the location of the tuck. Typically, this element is located in the center of the drawing. Line CC1 must be divided into four parts and point K. Darts on the back usually do not exceed 2 cm in width.Therefore, from point K we measure 1 cm in each direction and set points M and N. The dart should start 5-6 cm lower chest lines. It is worth measuring this distance from the BB1 ​​line and putting the corresponding point. The dart line must be drawn strictly vertically.

The step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress in the waist area is based on the width of the dart, which was the result. The half-girth of the waist must be divided by two and the width of the dart must be added to the resulting number. This distance should be measured from point C along a horizontal line and put point C12.

Next, the width of the back must be divided by two and the resulting distance from point B must be measured along a horizontal line. Point B12 is put here. This is the bottom edge of the armhole. It is worth returning to the construction of this element a little later. Last but not least, the neck circumference is divided by 4. To the result obtained, a free fit allowance is added, which is 1 cm. We measure the result obtained from point A and draw a horizontal line. Point F is put here. The depth of the neckline on the back is 3 cm as standard. This distance is measured vertically downward from point A. Point A12 is put here.

Building the front of the dress

The basis of the dress pattern in front is built in much the same way. There are only a few differences. From the waist line to the bottom, the construction is carried out, as in the version with the back. It is worth dwelling on the construction of the dart. This element is usually shorter and wider at the front. As in the previous version, the dart is located in the middle of the shelf drawing. It is necessary to measure the required distance from the edge of the base grid and put the point K1. The dart starts 10 cm below the bust line. The width of this element is 4 cm. From point K1 it is necessary to measure 2 cm and put points M1 and N1

The shelf also has a bust dart. From the edge of the waist dart, measure 5 cm up and put point L. This is the center of the chest. The distance from a point to the extreme line of the base grid should not exceed 15 cm (for sizes 42-46). The direction of the chest dart can be any. The dart width is the difference between the half girth over the bust and the half girth above the bust. Usually this parameter does not exceed 4 cm.

It is necessary to measure the distance along the chest line, which is equal to the half-girth of the chest. Point B22 is put here. This is the bottom edge of the armhole at the front.

The neck of the shelf is built based on the half-girth of the neck. Divide this parameter by 2 and add 1 cm for a loose fit. From point A1 along the baseline grid we measure the resulting distance. Point F1 is placed along the horizontal line, and A22 along the vertical line. A neat square is built along the lines, which is subsequently redrawn with the help of patterns into a smooth neck. The dress pattern is almost complete.

Armhole construction

Not a single pattern for the base of a dress can do without this element. The step-by-step building instructions will be described below. To draw the armhole, you will need parameters such as the width of the back, as well as the front in the narrowest places. Divide the obtained data by 2 and measure it on the baseline grid of the back and shelves, respectively. On the drawing we put points H1 and H2. Next, the shoulder line is drawn. To do this, you need a shoulder length parameter. Additionally, you will have to build an auxiliary dashed horizontal line from points A12 and A22. Further, lines are drawn from A and A1 to the intersection with the auxiliary element. Here we measure the shoulder width and put the G point on the back and the G1 point on the shelf. This will be the top edge of the armhole. Through points G, H1 and F1, the armhole line of the back is carefully drawn with the help of patterns. It is necessary to do the same with the front (points G1, H2 and F2 are used).

A simple solution

Building a pattern for the base of a dress for beginners can seem like a rather complicated process. For those who do not want to spend a lot of time on measurements and calculations, many sewing magazines offer their help. The Burda edition is very popular. All you need to do is choose the model you like and circle the pattern drawing of the required size.

The dress pattern (base) can become the basis for the manufacture of any style. Step-by-step sewing instructions, as well as recommendations for the selection of fabrics, are always described under each model. A sewing magazine is a great option for those who are not versed in design, but want to always look stylish.

Modeling

On a basic basis, you can create an outfit for every taste. Modeling a dress based on a pattern is a very exciting experience. For example, to create a sun-flared style, you just need to replace the bottom of the pattern. The upper part remains unchanged. To build a sun-flared skirt, you only need a waist circumference. It is necessary to cut out a circle from the fabric, in the center of which a hole for the waist is cut out. This skirt can be easily connected to the top of a classic dress.

In order to get a trapeze dress, you need to remove all darts in the drawing. Additionally, you can slightly expand the product along the bottom line. With the help of such a model, you can easily hide figure flaws.

Choosing the right fabric

Even if the pattern (base) of a woman's dress is built correctly, this is not a guarantee that the finished product will fit perfectly on the figure. The right material is of great importance. So, for sun-flared dresses, coarse material such as gabardine will not work at all. A model made of this fabric will look awkward. For fairly flared models, it is better to choose fabrics that fall in soft waves.

For strict models, it is quite possible to choose a strict suit fabric. In this case, gabardine will just be very appropriate. Poplin or linen are also ideal. For summer dresses of a straight silhouette, chintz, linen, soft knitwear are suitable.

What else can you use a blueprint for?

The dress pattern base can be an excellent base for making shirts, jackets and outerwear. In addition, it will only be necessary to add an allowance for a free fit. If in the version with a summer dress this parameter is 1 cm, then in a shirt or jacket it is 2-3 cm. Outerwear requires an allowance for free fitting up to 10 cm.It should be borne in mind that you will have to wear a sweater under the jacket or coat.

How to transfer a drawing to fabric?

To make patterns according to the drawing, you will need special transparent paper (tracing paper). The main lines of the drawing are transferred to it, and an allowance for free fitting is also added. It is very important to properly lay the fabric when cutting. A piece of material is folded in half along the edges. Strictly parallel to the edges, you need to lay the resulting patterns. If the fabric is too slippery, it is better to secure the pattern with pins.

The elements of the dress (shelf and back) are outlined on the fabric with chalk or a special pencil. It is necessary to cut parts with seam allowances. Along the lower edge, this parameter is 4 cm, and in other places - 1 cm. For cutting, it is better to use special sewing scissors that do not spoil the fabric and cut as accurately as possible. After cutting out the parts, it is necessary to mark the seamy side and the front side.

The final stage

Is the pattern (base) of the dress for beginners built? Are the fabric parts cut? It's time to start sewing. For owners of sewing machines, this stage will not be difficult. Although in ancient times, many women sewed dresses by hand. To connect the main lines, you will have to use a simple straight seam. If the fabric is too loose, you will have to process the seams additionally. This can be done using an overlock or a zigzag seam. For those who do not have much experience in sewing, it is advisable to first grind all the seams by hand.

Special attention should be paid to heat treatment. Each seam after sewing must be ironed with an iron. This will make the product look neater and the sewing process will be faster and easier.

Let's summarize

Building the basis of a woman's dress is a laborious process, but very exciting. In addition, the basic pattern can become an element for making clothes of various styles. A little perseverance and attention will help you look amazing and spend a minimum of finance on your wardrobe. The material is much cheaper than finished products.