How to make a crochet hook for knitting reinforcement with your own hands. How to make a crochet hook from an old toothbrush, detailed master class How to make a large crochet hook

For knitting, we have already told. Now we invite you to get acquainted with those little things that make the work of a needlewoman easier and more enjoyable.

1. Curly knitting needles for tying braids and arans, i.e. those patterns that require removing and crossing the loops - they will not slip off due to unusual shape tool. It can be replaced with a simple knitting needle or a regular hairpin - it also holds the loops perfectly.

2. A loop holder, more commonly known as a knitting pin. You will need this tool when you need to leave open a part of the loops that are not involved in the work (for example, when knitting a neckline, a pocket, products with raglan sleeves, etc.). Most of all, the holder resembles a large safety pin (depending on how many loops you need to leave, you can choose a holder of different sizes), and operates in exactly the same way. However, you can easily replace the holder with an auxiliary knitting needle with clamps, contrasting thread or fishing line. But be careful that the hinges you leave do not "run away".

3. Marking rings, or stitch markers, are needed to mark the beginning / middle of the row when knitting on circular knitting needles, places of increases and decreases, marking the connection of parts and for other necessary points. Can be replaced with a contrasting color thread or a regular paper clip.

4. The row counter is necessary when knitting large items or patterns with a large number of rows. There are electronic counters that are put on a finger, and there are mechanical counters that are attached to a spoke (such counters are different for different sizes of needles). The counter is one of the most convenient devices that facilitate the work of knitters, but its absence is not critical - you can always just make notes in a notebook.

5. Thimbles for knitting also come in two types - protective, designed to protect the finger from injury with a knitting needle, and separating, with which you can distribute the threads different colors when knitting jacquard patterns so that they do not get confused. These gadgets will be very useful for professionals in knitting, but beginners can do without them. However, if you want to have a thimble in your arsenal - your right.

6. A board or tablet for reading diagrams is well known to those who are fond of counting embroidery. This device will be very useful for you if you have to work on a thing with complex jacquard or large openwork or relief patterns... Can be replaced with a children's magnetic board with a limiter ruler. (Read about that in our material.)

7. The skein holder is another interesting knitting accessory. The choice of holders is very wide - industrial production and made by hand, and from improvised items. Basically, anything from a kettle and colander to a large basket or a cropped one will do. plastic bottle that will hold the skein and prevent the thread from tangling.

8. Accessories for storing hooks and knitting needles will also be useful. They can also be industrial or homemade, such as sewn or knitted. the main task so that the tool does not bend or break, the circular knitting needles do not get confused, and the stockings are kept in the kit.

Of course, the list of accessories for knitting is not limited to this list. Among them there are clamps for knitting needles, and rulers for determining the number of knitting needles and hooks, and bases for winding balls and much more.

Not a single construction project can do without fittings today. The strength and reliability of metal rods significantly improve the characteristics of concrete, allowing it to last for decades, withstanding any stress. But in order to tie a reliable frame made of rods, you need a hook for knitting reinforcement, you can buy it in a store or make it yourself.

When reinforcing a small volume of concrete, builders simply place the reinforcement in the formwork, and then fill it with mortar. However, if the reinforcement of large concrete products, for example, a monolithic (slab) or massive strip foundation, is required, then a frame is needed. The reinforcement must be evenly distributed over the entire volume of concrete in order to reliably perform the function of increasing the strength of the structure. In these cases, a complex frame is made from metal rods.

When working with most types of fittings, it is undesirable to use welding. First, the welds are more likely to corrode, which significantly reduces the strength and service life of the metal. Secondly, overheating of the metal leads to the fact that it can no longer withstand heavy loads and may fail.

Therefore, professionals prefer to use knitting as a compound. Each intersection of the rods is connected with a special wire, which guarantees the reliability of the frame. To simplify the work, a hook for tying reinforcement or other specialized tools is used. About them, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, it will be useful to tell in more detail.

How to knit a frame?

The following tools can be used for tying reinforcement:

Rebar hook.
Mechanical hook.
Knitting gun.

Crochet hook

The first option is the simplest and most affordable. If necessary, you can buy it in a specialized store for a hundred rubles or even cheaper. What's more, it can be handcrafted if the right material is available - we'll come back to that later. The downside is low performance. A beginner knitter, if there is a sufficient supply of wire, will be able to produce 6-10 knits per minute. An experienced master who has worked in this field for more than one year reaches the limit of 15-20 mating. But this is perhaps the maximum. Therefore, it will take a lot of time to complete a large amount of work. You will also have to take the time to cut the wire into pieces of the appropriate length and fold it neatly. Since even a small object may need hundreds of pieces, this factor should be taken into account.

Screw hook

The screw hook is the next step in the development of the rebar knitting tool. Outwardly, it looks a little like an ordinary one, but thanks to it, the mating speed will increase, and the employee will get tired much less. If, when working with a conventional hook, a specialist must overwhelm the ends of the wire and manually twist them, then the screw hook is much more convenient. Overlap the loop and ends, then gently but firmly pull towards you. The plastic handle will be locked in your hand, and the hook itself will spin quickly, tightening the loop securely. Such a tool costs from 600 to 1000 rubles - depending on the manufacturer and store. It will be an excellent choice if you need to do a job once on a relatively large object. The tying speed will increase, but the wire will still have to be cut and bent by hand.

Automatic pistol

Finally, a special pistol. If you use an automatic pistol to knit fittings, then even the largest volume of work can be easily handled by a beginner who has never been involved in such an activity before. When working with it, you do not need to cut and bend the wire - a coil of wire is tucked into the gun, which is bent and cut automatically. It is enough to press the pistol to the joint and pull the trigger - in less than a second the reinforcement will be tightly pulled. In a minute, an inexperienced worker can make 50-60 matings. Of course, this is an absolute record. Alas, the knitting gun has a drawback - the cost. Most simple models cost about 50 thousand. Also, not just any wire will work here. You need to use a special one that has a certain diameter and stiffness, and it costs much more than a regular knitting one. Using the wrong wire can damage expensive equipment.

Knowing about different types knitting accessories, you can easily make right choice, deciding which option suits you in full.

We make the hook ourselves

Despite the low cost of a crochet hook for rebar, some experienced craftsmen who have worked with rebar for more than one year prefer to use homemade rather than purchased ones. This has its advantages.

If you make it yourself, you can give the handle an optimal shape so that it fits comfortably in your hand. The hand will fatigue less and productivity will increase.
The choice of steel for making, often comes across factory hooks made of soft metal. As a result, it cannot withstand the load and bends.
Make a crochet hook of the desired size. There are times when it is impossible to crawl to the place of mating with a factory hook, because of it it is long.
Small, but still savings (subject to the availability of materials and tools).

Electrode hook

An electrode hook is suitable for a small amount of work. When it is necessary to tie a small frame made of reinforcement.

Making a crochet hook with your own hands takes only 5 minutes. You will need: electrode 4, pliers and a grinder (if not, you can do without it).

Let's take a step by step how to do it:

We beat off the electrode from the protective coating.
We retreat from the edge 1-2 centimeters and bend it at 80-90 degrees.
We retreat 3-4 centimeters from the other edge, make the first bend at 90 degrees. We retreat another 10-12 centimeters, and make a second bend at 90 degrees. We retreat another 4-5 centimeters and make a third bend.
Let's sharpen the tip of the hook a little, so that the wire slips better.

The hook is ready, you should get the same shape as in the drawing below.

Homemade hook made of rebar with a wooden handle

A homemade hook is most often used by professional fitters, thanks to the advantages described above. Its production will take about 2 hours, as a result, you will get a hook that is in no way inferior to the factory one.

To make a hook, you will need the following materials and tools:

Corrugated reinforcement 8-10 diameters, length 35-50 centimeters;
wooden blank for the handle;
2 washers - diameter equal to the hook handle;
2 nuts;
pliers, knife or hatchet;
grinders and welding;
drill with a drill of 8-10 diameters;
sandpaper.

Manufacturing procedure:

We will grind the ribs of the reinforcement on the grinder so that it becomes smooth. We take corrugated, not smooth, since steel is used for its production larger class, the hook will be stronger.
Let's prepare a pen. We will drill with a drill, a drill of a suitable diameter, a hole in the center of the workpiece. Then, if necessary, we adjust it to the required size, with a knife or a hatchet. At the same time, make sure that the hole is in the center of the handle. Next, sand the handle to a smooth state with sandpaper.
We put a nut on the edge of the reinforcement and weld it with welding. On top of the nut, put the washer, then put on the handle, then again the washer and nut. It is important that there is a small gap between the washers and the handle, so that the hook handle turns well. To do this, put a piece of paper folded a couple of times between them. Then we weld on the second nut. Be sure to put water near you in order to extinguish it with a rhinestone in case of fire of the handle.
Now we will sharpen the edge of the reinforcement with a grinder, do not overdo it so that it does not turn out too thin, otherwise the crochet hook will bend.
We step back from the edge of the handle 1-2 cm and make a bend at 90-140 degrees (it all depends on the type of hook selected, see the picture below for examples of bends). We retreat from the edge of the reinforcement 1-2 centimeters and bend the tip of the hook with pliers at 80-100 degrees. Make sure that the folds are in the same plane.
To increase the service life of the handle, cover it with 2 layers of wood impregnation from decay and moisture. After drying, cover with varnish on wood.
The hook is ready, it remains to make a couple of strings for testing, if it fits well, then you do not need to bend anything, otherwise you can bend it a little under your hand.

Photo of handmade crochet hooks

That's all. Now you have not only learned about knitting devices, but also learned how to make a hook for knitting reinforcement with your own hands and easily cope with this task.

I would call this master class very strange. Agree: it is not clear why spend your time on making a crochet hook, if you can buy a similar plastic tool in a store at a ridiculous price? But after a little reflection, I realized that this is a very correct idea. How many toothbrushes does your family throw out per year? Most people throw them out in the general trash can so recycling these pieces of plastic doesn't shine. They will lie in a landfill for centuries and pollute the environment. It makes much more sense to transform toothbrushes into hooks, thereby preventing the overproduction of plastic hooks. So toothbrush crafts are very useful, join us!

You will need any old toothbrush to make the crochet hook. The condition of the bristles does not matter.

In addition to stubble, use a file, pliers, sandpaper, and a sharp utility knife.

How to make a crochet hook? Work process.

The first step is to get rid of the bristle portion of the brush. Feel free to take a sharp clerical knife (you can even take a construction knife) and cut off this part.

Of course, the usual stationery knife you will not be able to cut through the plastic: you will only have to make a notch. But that's not bad either: the rest of the work can be done by grasping the bristles with pliers. Grasp this part of the brush and unscrew it.

The result is a brush without bristles.

Use a file to rub the tip of the brush lightly to smooth it.

Using the same blade, cut a small triangle at the tip of the brush. The kind of triangle you see in a regular crochet hook. If you look in profile, then this notch should be in the form of the number "7".

You can compare what you have done with any needlework crochet. Or you can even create exactly the same product, "copying" from a natural crochet step by step.

Immediately take a working thread (preferably of a suitable thickness) and try to knit with such a crochet. If the yarn does not jump off the tool during operation, then you are on the right track!

Pay special attention to the notch itself: it should not be catastrophically narrow. Otherwise, during knitting, the hook will break under the pressure of the yarn.

File the recess with a file: run it from the deepest point of the hook to the handle of the tool. Make the transition from handle to groove as smooth as possible.

You should get something like this. If the tool comes out rough, sand the surface with sandpaper. But remember: they take soft plastic for making toothbrushes, so you should use sandpaper with fine crumbs.

Now you know how to make a crochet hook!

Different brushes can be used to make crochet hooks of different sizes to work with different threads.

The undoubted plus of such hooks is that thanks to the care of the manufacturers of brushes, these tools will be very comfortable to hold in your hands!

A master class on making a bamboo hook prepared Serge.

For many knitters, store-bought plastic or metal knitting tools are not always suitable. This problem is fixable: if desired, anyone can make convenient hook as demonstrated by our regular reader Serge 🙂

Material: Bamboo sticks from Chinese restaurants.

Required tool: A very sharp knife (I used a knife that I made for wood carving), 100, 180, 1000 grit sandpaper and a polishing nail file (with three different surfaces).

Description of making hook No. 4: First, I cut off about 1 cm from the pointed edge of the stick and rounded it slightly. I took a regular hook and tied a couple of loops in order to measure the distance where the flat part should be. The measured distance was transferred to the workpiece and made a mark. From it to the intended place of the hook with a knife, I carefully began to sharpen the stick and give it a rounded shape (Chinese sticks are oval), the process is roughly similar to sharpening a pencil. After giving more or less the desired shape and approaching the desired size, I began to process the entire stick with 100 sandpaper. It turned out to be a pretty smooth stick. The next step was to make the hook itself. How did you do ?! I looked at the plastic one and did it in the likeness, with one BUT - I made the recess deeper. The hook is ready. Then, using 180 sandpaper, and then 1000, carefully and slowly eliminated all defects and achieved a smooth surface. Especially the hook itself and inside it. Finally, I polished it with a polishing nail file. At this stage, the hook was beautiful and glittered from polishing, the bamboo structure looked beautiful. The whole process took 1 hour.

What peculiarities may arise in the manufacture of other hook numbers - I do not know yet. But for myself I will still do it for sure, tk. I already knitted with this, I really liked it.

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We all know the desire to save time and effort on routine trifles and the tricks that allow us to do this - life hacks. Let me introduce you to some of these knitting techniques today.
Holders for balls. All kinds of devices designed to ensure that the glomerulus does not "run away" anywhere.
Use a clip-clip to build a knitting device - put a ball in a bowl, fasten a clip on its wall and thread the thread through the metal eyelet. The thread will not run away.

How easy and simple is it to make sure that the ball of thread does not run away from you? Cut the neck out of the bottle and leave a strip of plastic that you can attach to the back of a chair and then clip to the neck of the bottle. An irreplaceable thing for multicolor knitting.

Another idea for multicolor knitting.
Crochet a thimble like this and the thread won't go anywhere.

You can make such sheets of cardboard to store the name and number and color of the knitting thread. An original idea for storing knitting needles. You buy an album for photos and put in knitting needles - circular and toe. A file folder can also be used for the same purpose. Beautiful design - it's up to your taste

Here is such a simple device will help you not to lose the desired row:
When finished knitting, put the usual wine corks on the knitting needles - and not a single eyelet will "run away". You can use an eraser instead of plugs.
Rubber softeners from ballpoint pens can help make crochet hooks more comfortable.
Do you knit everywhere and always? Bend the tip of the crochet hook to fit comfortably on your keychain.
For knitting on the road and in any other dark places, you can use glowing knitting needles and lighted crochet hooks.
You can order such a tool in American and Asian online stores. The new kind needlework - knitting with laser swords!
To make the auxiliary knitting needle, hook and other necessary metal things always at hand, make yourself a bracelet like this:
You haven't finished knitting, you are afraid of pricking - sew these cuffs like this:
And finally, my favorite For those who want to knit anytime, anywhere, a few ideas for knitting bags:

Bonus! And here is the pattern of such a handbag

1. ALWAYS knit the pattern. Do not regret this time and expensive yarn. You knit with knitting needles that you plan to knit at least 1-2 rapports, close the loops, wash with warm water and dry. Only then can you measure the sample and calculate the loops for a large product.

2. It is not at all necessary to choose the number of knitting needles according to the recommendation indicated on the packaging of the yarn. Each needlewoman has her own special knitting style: free or, conversely, tight. With the size of the knitting needles, you can adjust the density of the fabric, taking into account your style.

3. After the product is connected, sewn, it is imperative to wash it in order to wash off the factory wax, treatment from moths. We wash with liquid detergent for wool in warm (not hot) water. We rinse several times. Squeeze with a towel, twisting gently. Leave to dry on a horizontal surface on a dry towel, shaping it with your hands.

4. Don't skimp on yarn. Life is too short to knit from synthetics and low-quality wool. Remember how as a child you did not like a prickly hat and biting mittens. For children's clothing, choose a merino. It is soft and does not prick at all. By saving money, you will spend time knitting things that will lose their appearance after washing. The thread will stretch, the paint will shed. Good yarn serves in the product for years.

5. How to make invisible beautiful decreases: hide the purl loops under the front loops. Knit the front loops in the aranas together last. "Eat" everything around the ornament. Change the size of the knitting needles to a smaller one in the places of the decrease.

6. After unraveling the product, if you decide to knit something new from this yarn, be sure to wash the yarn. It will become even, it will be more comfortable for you to knit. Wrap the yarn in long loops, like for a skein, for example, on the back of a chair. Tie with a contrasting thread so as not to get messed up. Wash, leave to dry, hanging by one of the stitching threads. Once dry, rewind into balls.

7. Hats, snoods, sweaters, sleeves are best knitted in a circle without a seam. For hats, snoods, it is better to use knitting needles on a line of 40 cm. For a sweater, line 60, 80 cm. Sleeves, mittens can be knitted using a line of 80,100 cm.

8. Paired items can be knitted simultaneously on the needles with a fishing line using the magic loop method. Use knitting needles with a smooth connection to the line (for example, detachable from Knit pro) and line 80, 100 cm long.

9. You can knit in 2 threads from one ball: thread outside and inside the skein. Or, for example, take 2 tips for knitting with the "magic loop" method.

10. Write down the initial data on the product: yarn name, article / color name, needles number, number of loops dialed. When you want to repeat, you will not need to remember or calculate.

11. Elastic bands are knitted with knitting needles of a smaller diameter, the "rice", "pearl" pattern makes the thing more voluminous, arans, braids squeeze the thing. We knit arans and braids, jacquard with knitting needles of a larger diameter.

12. It is easier to tie a cap of the desired shape using different sizes knitting needles: the elastic is 1 / 1.5 smaller, the main part with the knitting needles indicated on the yarn packaging, closer to the crown of the head, we again switch to a smaller size in order to smoothly narrow the product.

Every needlewoman knows that a competent combination of colors is 50% of success! When starting to create a new product, you need to think over everything to the smallest detail. Color charts and amazing palettes will help you find the right yarn colors.

Artists use a color chart to understand how colors work together.

Blue, red and yellow are the primary colors. Orange, green and purple are secondary. The rest of the colors are tertiary.
The segments that are next to each other are in great harmony. Colors that are directly opposite provide beneficial contrast.

Conventionally, the color chart can be divided into 2 parts: warm shades and cold shades. The warm portion of the color spectrum consists of reds, yellows, browns, and oranges. Use these colors to create brightness and depth. The combination of warm shades can very beneficially enrich ready product.

Blue, green, and purple are in the colder part of the color chart. By adding cool tones, warm tones can be balanced.
Advice for all needlewomen: before choosing a yarn, constantly apply the thread to your face to determine this color scheme is also suitable for you.

How to speed up hand knitting: a set of secrets

Tool selection

The tool is the most important part of the product creation process. I must say right away that for myself I found the most comfortable knitting needles that can be knitted at almost the speed of light. These are the so-called knitting needles for hats (as for socks, only longer), they are matte and with pointed ends.

I always go for pointed needles and crochet hooks. It is easier and faster to grab the loop the first time with such a tool.
The needles should be as light as possible and without tips. Excess weight- this is an extra load and loss of knitting speed due to fatigue.
When knitting a wide fabric, I choose knitting needles with a matte finish, knitting will not slip off the other end of the knitting needle.
When knitting a narrow fabric, you can choose the most smooth glossy knitting needles. It will be easier to slide the canvas, it will not need to be nudged and thus waste valuable time.
It is important to match the thickness of the knitting needles to the thickness of the yarn.
For the convenience of knitting, before starting work with circular knitting needles (regardless of the chosen knitting method), I straighten the fishing line, holding it in hot water for a short time.
If the ends of the tool have roughness, yarn or fingers start to catch, I part with them. It is distracting, time consuming and annoying.

I do not use various additional tools in my work, such as additional knitting needles, hairpins, markers, row counters and other objects that distract from the main work. When knitting plaits, braids and other similar patterns, I toss the loops between the two knitting needles in the order in which it is necessary, and then knit them. So I knit absolutely all patterns. When knitting products that are knitted on four knitting needles (such as socks or mittens, for example), I often choose knitting methods on two knitting needles (no seam), and there are such.

Knitting method

I do not knit on circular needles in a circle. I have no complaints about the needles themselves, not the fishing line, they can be convenient when knitting a very wide fabric. But! Not in a circle. When knitting in a circle, you must constantly push the fabric. From such actions, the canvas is overwritten, loses the appearance of a new thing. It is also a colossal waste of time.
I do not consider the absence of a seam on things tied in a circle to be a plus, since such a thing does not have a side orientation (front-back, left-right) and this is not convenient when using the product. I connect the product with a neat knitted seam using a crochet hook (I will describe in detail exactly how I do this in the next master class) and never with a needle! My firm opinion is that the needle is not a knitter's tool, such a seam spoils appearance products.
I do not knit according to the schemes. Do not knit according to the pattern, get it! It will take much less time to understand the pattern and understand it than to constantly be distracted from work, looking at the diagram.
I choose yarn in comfortable small skeins and knit by pulling the thread out of its middle.
The thicker the yarn, the faster the item will bond. If you need to quickly make a product, choose a thick bulky yarn.
Don't knit too tight. Loose loops are knitted much faster than tight loops. If you need a denser canvas, you can take a more thin knitting needles.
I do not turn the fabric over when knitting. Having tied the row with my right hand, I transfer the auxiliary knitting needle to the left and begin to knit the next row, in the opposite direction, without turning the fabrics over. This is convenient in that time is not wasted on turning the canvas, the pattern is always in front of your eyes and it is easier to reproduce, when knitting with several balls at the same time, entanglement is excluded. This method may seem unusual, but it is very simple and convenient. You just need to get used to it. I invented it myself and always use it. I have not met anyone who knits in the same way. If you knit like that, write in the comments, I will be glad to find like-minded people :)
If someone finds my method interesting, maybe later I will do a master class and even record a video of exactly how I knit.

Took note of myself!

LOWERED LOOPS ...

... can be saved! Take a crochet hook that is the same size as the knitting needles and insert it into the corresponding dropped loop. Crochet this loop high enough to knit it out of the broach, like an air loop. On the last broach, put the loop back on the knitting needle.

FACIAL EYE ...

... it will be better and smoother if you are on the side where you knit more freely, you will work with a knitting needle a full size thinner.

CORRECT SPOKE SIZE ...

... is very important for your knitted items to be successful in all respects. The sizes of the knitting needles indicated on the skein label are always approximate - that is, they are not required for every knitter. Those who knit very loosely should choose thinner knitting needles; those who knit tightly should choose thicker knitting needles. Besides ,

Do not crochet too tight, otherwise the knitting will fall off, become too stiff, and stop stretching. If you have a tendency to tighten the loops tightly, it is better to take the hook a full length longer.

Damaged crocheted products can be easily restored by tying new posts instead of damaged ones in the appropriate place. Then you need to carefully hide the ends of the new thread.

In order for the product made in the fillet technique to retain its shape longer, it can be tied in a circle with single crochet columns. To do this, one single crochet is knitted in each loop of the base, and 5 columns are made on the side for every 2 rows of sirloin mesh. In the corners, you should knit 3 columns in one loop of the base.

You can embroider Tunisian knitting - best with a cross. It looks very sophisticated. Alternatively, you can pull a different color of bias thread through the buttonholes of the knitted fabric.

If you need to introduce a new thread, it is best to do it at the end of the row. Insert the hook into last loop the previous row, pull out a new thread and tie the lifting air loops with it.

Crocheted items with high density patterns should not be starchy, otherwise they will be stiff and inelastic.

If you are going to knit a product from cotton yarn, then be sure to wash the sample in water that has the maximum temperature allowed for this yarn, since the knitted fabric usually shrinks.

If the typesetting chain is too long, then you can lose count. In this case, link several air loops more, and the extra loops at the end can be easily unraveled.

If you can't decide how many buttons should be on the placket and at what distance from each other, start knitting from the left shelf. Lay out the buttons on the finished part and try different variants... Sew the buttons not close to the model made of thick yarn, but on the leg. In addition, in order not to deform the strip fabric, provide a flat transparent button not more than 1 cm in diameter on the seamy side.

Pure wool, that is, made from 100% wool. This jersey is not recommended to be machine washed. Even with gentle washing, the garment will shrink. It is better to wash it by hand in warm water. Turn the garment inside out before washing to prevent fibers from sticking to the right side of the garment.

Until you tie the item to the end, do not throw away the label. If there is not enough wool, then according to the label you will immediately determine the numbers of the yarn and the batch of threads, which determine the quality of the yarn and the color shade of the threads.

If the folded thread is twisted, then the fabric knitted from it will be skewed, the product will be damaged. If the folded thread does not twist, then it can be used for hand knitting.

For openwork knitting, it is better to use a smooth yarn without fluff and lint that can close the knitted holes, and the pattern will lose clarity. For this knitting, smooth wool and threads such as "crochet", "poppy", "iris" in two folds are suitable.

Do not put the iron on the embossed knitted fabric: the drawing will stick and look bad.

Instead of knitting, the ornament can be embroidered. This is especially useful when the drawing is small and multi-colored or consists of strongly curved lines. Embroidery is best done woolen threads: they softly, beautifully lay on the knitted surface.

When crocheting, the first row is often curved in relation to the chain of air loops. In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary, when knitting it, to skip several loops untied, for example, every 7th loop.

If, when crocheting, the number of loops has become more, you can knit one column of two from the edge of the fabric. To do this, first stretch the working thread under one loop of the previous row, then under the next, then knit the resulting two loops together. If the number of loops has decreased, you can increase it by knitting two columns from one, that is, knitting one loop of the previous row twice.