Many products require knitting of the shoulder bevel. It is very important to tie this bevel without steps. This is done by means of (photo 1). There is nothing complicated. I advise you to take the remains of multi-colored yarn, preferably of the same thickness, and try it.

In order to make it more clear, I took yarn of several colors and knitted a sample of the right shoulder (see photo 1).

To knit the left shoulder, everything is done in the same way, but in a mirror image. I suggest step-by-step execution according to the diagram in fig. 1.

1. Cast on the required number of loops. I cast on the number of stitches in multiples of six, plus two stitches. Why two more loops? These are edging, they will be needed when making connecting seams or when processing an edge.

2. Knit several rows.

3. On the carriage, set both retaining cam levers to position II.

4. If the right shoulder is knitted, then leave the carriage on the left, that is, where the neck is. On the right side of the shoulder (on the side where the shoulder seam will later be) put seven needles into the non-working position (photo 2), this is position "E".

5. Knit one row with a carriage. I knitted it with a red thread.

6. Carriage on the right. Slide the thread over the most extended needle (photo 3).

7. Knit one row with a carriage. This is the second row of a red thread.

8. Carriage on the left. On the right side of the shoulder, extend six needles to the non-working position. Knit one row with a carriage. I knit it with yellow thread.

9. Carriage on the right. Slide the thread over the most extended needle (photo 4).

10. Knit one row with a carriage (photo 5). This is the second row with yellow thread.

11. Carriage on the left. On the right side of the shoulder, extend six more needles to the non-working position. Knit one row. I knit it with a gray thread.

12. Carriage on the right. Wrap the thread again (photo 6) and knit a row. This is the second row of gray thread.

13. Carriage on the left. On the right side of the shoulder, extend six more needles to the non-working position. There are seven needles left in the working position. Knit one row. I knit it with blue thread. Slide the thread over the most extended needle (photo 7) and knit the second blue row with the carriage.

What a multi-colored shoulder looks like from above and below after the 13th step is shown in photos 8 and 9.

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing construction lines. These are the lines of the armholes of the back and front and sleeves. Therefore, for them knitting the neck, shoulders, armholes, we recommend using ready-made calculation results.

How to calculate and knit a back

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

• 3 p.x6 cm = 18 p. (Pg. = 3 p.);
• 18 p.: 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting, close the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the hem) in 2 steps:

at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and knit the row to the end.

Turn the knitting, close 3 loops at the beginning of the row. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having connected the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the purl row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops must be closed in one go.

Decrease the second third (6 loops) one at the beginning and end of each front row: at the beginning of the row, remove the hem, knit the next loop with the front (regardless of the pattern) and pull it through the hem. At the end of the same row, knit the hem and adjacent loops together with the purl.

Knit purl rows without subtraction. Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in every front row, but after one row, that is, after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, front, purl) and only then make another decrease.

Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders.

How to calculate and knit the shoulders and neck backrests

The neck shape depends on the model. In our example, after drawing the constructive lines ("under the neck" plank), the new neckline is 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the plank ends above the base by 1 cm (this can be seen on the working pattern).

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars on it that determine the width of the new neck. Next, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern.

Measure the width of the new neckline (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

• 3 p.x8 cm = 24 p. (Half of the neck);
• 3 sts x 12 cm = 36 sts (shoulder).

Measure the new shoulder slope (it is slightly more than 3 cm) and count the number of edging in this value using the control sample, for example 7.

The number of shoulder edges in the slope always corresponds to the number of groups into which you need to break the shoulder loops in dm decreases. Therefore, in this embodiment there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are in each of the groups. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided into the number of groups (or edging). 36 sts: 7 = 5 sts (1 st in the remainder).

Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is more than one, distribute it 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder, you need to subtract 1 time 6 loops and 6 times 5 loops.

The number of edging in the height of the neck always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops must be split for decrements.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edging loops, determine the number of loops in each group. 24 sts: 7 = 3 sts (3 sts in the remainder). Distribute the remainder by adding 1 loop to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the neck of the back, you need to decrease 3 times in 4 loops and 4 times in 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Having tied the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with the purl row. Mark with colored thread the middle of the back and the width of the new neck. Divide the knitting in half. Transfer the left half to the spare knitting needle, and knit the right half according to the calculation just made.

To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving at the end of the 4 neck loops untied (put them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the purl row to the end.

At the beginning of the front row, close 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more loose loops. Now there are 8 loose loops on the thread. Continue knitting as calculated until all shoulder stitches are closed.

Thread the neck loops (they remain open). Then cut off the working thread. Next, knit the left half of the back.

To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back by 4 loops to the left (point A in the figure), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end.

It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

On the site * Fashion knitting Perchinka * already has several useful tips this author. And for beginners in knitting, today we will again talk about another calculation method for correctly knitting armholes and sleeves. From whatever yarn and whatever number of knitting needles you knit, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the density of knitting, only the number of calculation digits changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer of them.

How to knit a set-in sleeve

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on the needles: long or short; narrowed or, conversely, expanded downward; straight (tube-shaped) or in the form of a flashlight; with cuffs or cuffs and many others.

Sleeves can be performed not only from the bottom up from the wrist - the most common way, but also from the side, from the sleeve seam (transverse knitting direction). You can knit a set-in sleeve from top to bottom (from the high point of the okata), but this is not very convenient. Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed downwards.

Set-in sleeve tied from bottom to top

Calculation and knitting of sleeves to okat(fig. 173). The calculation is faster to do for half of the sleeve. Count the number of stitches at the narrowest and widest part of the sleeve:

rice. 173 Calculation for knitting a sleeve to an okat

3 sts x 10 cm = 30 sts (Pg = 3 sts);

3 sts x 18 cm = 54 sts

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve: 54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.

Measure from the beginning of the flare on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34 cm) and divide that number by 24 (difference in stitches).

34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.

Count the number of edging in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row. Let's consider how best to do it.

Cast on the needles the desired number of loops (30 stitches x 2 = 60 stitches), knit 4 cm with garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Work 2-4 rows and add first; at the beginning of the front row, remove the hem and, having made a yarn (towards you), knit a row, at the end of it, in front of the hem, throw another yarn over. In the next seamy row, knit yarn over with front loops behind the back wall.

Continue knitting, making similar additions on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 stitches on the knitting needle (54 stitches x 2 = 108 stitches).

In order not to get lost in the count, each time mark with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which you made the addition. These marks will also come in handy for the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Sleeve rounding calculation

Let's get acquainted with this calculation. Divide the number of loops in the segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 sts: 3 = 18 sts). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 17), add the remainder to the first digit (3 + 1 = 4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into threes (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first digit from the high point of the okat (point O).

Apply the results of the calculation to the pattern.

Now you can start knitting an okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and tie the row to the end. Turn the knitting and fasten 4 loops at the beginning of the purl row. Then continue to close the loops according to the calculation at the beginning of each row (either front or back), until you cut 18 loops on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the stitches of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts), subtract 1 st at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but after one. Decrease the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the first.

Fix the loops of the 3rd part according to the calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, then at the beginning of the purl row. When 6 loops remain on the needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

Practical advice

* If the sleeves are made with a bouclé pattern, then gradually include the loops added for expansion into the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of hosiery (for example, plaits or removed loops on purl surface), then knit new loops on the front side of the work with the wrong side, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the seam of the sleeve will be soft and neat.

* When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. It is noticed: if the measurement of arm length is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then additions on the sleeve have to be done in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measurement is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is needed - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. With full and short arms (48-51 cm), the loops on the sleeve should be added in every 4th row. Knowing this, you can not do the calculation of the additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.

* When knitting a sleeve to an okat, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue to knit in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but note that the second sleeve must be done in the same way.

* Before you start knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: sweep it, put it on your hand and check if it is of the length and width you require. After making sure that the job is done correctly, continue knitting.

* It is important from the very beginning of training to pay special attention to the knitting density. It is necessary to carry out all parts with the same density; if this does not work out yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be dissolved and knitted again.

Calculation and knitting of front armholes

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide this number into 4 equal parts. If there is a remainder, add it to the loops of the 1st part (to the one at the side seam).
Example: knitting density 3p. in 1 cm.
3 p.x 8 cm = 24 p.;

24 p.: 4 = 6 p.

Now divide the loops of each part, except for the 1st, into groups (if in the 2nd and 3rd parts you get leftovers, add them to the first groups):

divide the loops of the 2nd part into threes (3 + 3);

loops of the 3rd part for twos (2 + 2 + 2);

loops of the 4th part into units (1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Having connected the left shelf to the armhole, fasten 6 loops in a row at the beginning of the front row (1st part). Then tie the row, turn the knitting, tie the purl row and at the beginning of the front row fasten 3 loops in a row (the first group of loops of the 2nd part). All subsequent reductions of the 2nd and 3rd parts do according to the calculation at the beginning of each front row.

Decrease the loops of the 4th part one by one through one front row, that is, having made a decrease at the beginning of the front row, knit it to the end, then tie the purl row, then the front row, another purl, and only at the beginning of the next front row do the next decrease.

After completing the armhole, knit 5-6 rows in a straight line, and then add 1 loop 2-3 times at equal intervals (see the + signs in Fig. 183). Sometimes the knitting pattern is broken by the added loops. In this case, it is more advisable not to make additions, but to knit the armholes in a straight line.

Calculation for knitting curved lines of the neck of the front and shoulder

Any of the curves can be exploded into separate segments that have a certain angle of inclination. This possibility is taken into account when calculating for knitting curved lines.

The calculation is done as follows: the curved line is divided into segments of different types, the number of loops in the width of each is counted and the number of edging in its height is determined. For example, in the width of the BV segment (2nd part) there are 6 loops, in the height there are 2 edge loops. Next, they use the principle of calculation familiar to us: the number of loops is divided by the number of edging; the result is the number of loops to subtract in each group.

6 p.: 2 = 3 p.

Therefore, the loops of the curved line on the BV segment must be subtracted in two steps, 3 loops each.

Another example. There are 6 loops in the width of the GD segment (4th part), and in the height of 12 edge loops, the segment is quite long, so you have to divide the number of edge loops by the number of loops in order to determine the length of the intervals between decreases.

12 edging: 6 p. = 2 edging (4 rows).

This means that the loops of the curved line on the GD segment must be cut one at a time in every 4th row.

In this example, we met for the second time with the calculation for an almost vertical line (remember the side seam line of the fitted model), only the height of the side seam line was measured in centimeters, the intervals were determined and then their length was expressed by the number of edge seams.

Now let's make a calculation for knitting the remaining segments of the neckline: 12 loops are placed in the AB segment (1st part). The segment is horizontal, so the loops in this area need to be subtracted in one step. In the section VG (3rd part) 6 loops, its height corresponds to three edging.

6 p.: 3 = 2 p.

Therefore, the loops of the VG segment must be closed 3 times 2 loops each.

The vertical section DE (5th part) is knitted without subtraction.

Apply on the pattern the results of calculations for knitting the neckline (Fig. 185): 12 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 1 + 1 + + 1 + 1 + 1. Also put the calculation numbers for knitting shoulders.


Tying the neck and shoulder of the left front. Tie the shelf up to the neck (see fig. 184, point A). At the end of the front row, leave 12 loose loops and string them on an auxiliary strong thread.

Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the row to the end Continue work, not tying the neck loops at the end of each front row. The shoulder loops must be fastened at the beginning of the front rows after the armhole is tied. The neck and shoulder of the right shelf are knitted similarly to the left one, only the subtractions are made in the purl rows.

Practical advice

* Adhere to the rule in knitting: when performing the back and in front, do not fasten the loops along the neckline, but string them on an auxiliary thread, i.e. leave open - they are much more convenient for subsequent processing of the neck than closed ones. In addition, if the open loops are not needed, they can always be closed: it is enough to transfer the loops from the thread to the knitting needle and fasten them in the same row.

* When knitting a model from thick yarn, it is recommended to perform shoulders partial knitting and after that, starting from the front side of the part, knit 2 rows of front loops with the main thread and 3-4 rows with the auxiliary thread. Then the shoulders are ironed, the auxiliary thread and one woolen row are braided off and after that the shoulders are connected with a loop-to-loop seam on the front or back side, depending on the features of the pattern.

* If knitted thing put on over the head (sweater, pullover, T-shirt), then, tying the neck of the front, it is necessary to divide the work in half and perform each half separately (like the neck of the back).

* Often, on modern models, strips of dense jersey are sewn to the armholes to expand the shoulders. Usually they are made with garter knitting (all rows are knit stitches) or 1x1 elastic band. It is more convenient to tie them separately, and then quit to the model.

Calculation and knitting of back armholes

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing construction lines. These are the lines of the armholes of the back and front and sleeves. Therefore, we recommend using ready-made calculation results for tying them. Determine the number of loops in the width of the armholes (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

3 p.x 6 cm = 18 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

18 p.: 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting, close the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the hem) in 2 steps: at the beginning of the front row, close half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and tie the row to the end. Turn the knitting, close 3 loops at the beginning of the row. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having connected the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the purl row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops must be closed in one go.

Decrease the second third (6 loops) one at the beginning and end of each front row: at the beginning of the row, remove the hem, knit the next loop with the front (regardless of the pattern) and pull it through the hem. At the end of the same row, knit the hem and adjacent stitches together with the purl. Knit purl rows without subtraction.

Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in every front row, but after one row, that is, after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, front, purl) and only then make another decrease. Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders. If it is done with an elastic band, cords and other "springy" patterns, then knit it without changes (in a straight line). Otherwise, give the armholes a concave shape. To do this, it is enough to make 2-3 additions of 1 loop along the armholes, performing them at equal intervals (see Fig. 169 for the location of the plus signs).

Calculation and knitting of the shoulders and neck of the back

The neck shape depends on the model. In our example, after drawing constructive lines ("under the neck" plank), the new neckline is 2 cm below the main line, the upper edge of the plank ends 1 cm above the base (this can be seen on the working pattern)

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars on it that determine the width of the new neck. Next, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern. Measure the width of the new neckline (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

3 sts x 8 cm = 24 sts (half of the neckline);

3 sts x 12 cm = 36 sts (shoulder).

Measure the new shoulder slope (it is slightly more than 3 cm) and count the number of edging in this value using the control sample, for example 7.


The number of hem in the slope of the shoulder always corresponds to the number of groups into which you need to break the shoulder loops for decreases. Therefore, in this embodiment there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are in each of the groups. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided into the number of groups (or edging).

36 sts: 7 = 5 sts (1 st in the remainder).

Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is more than one, distribute it 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder, you need to subtract 1 time 6 loops and 6 times 5 loops.

Next, measure the height of the new neck (3 cm) and count the number of edging in this value - 7 (in our example, the height of the neck and the slope of the shoulder coincided in size). The number of edging in the height of the neck always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops must be split for decrements.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edging loops, determine the number of loops in each group.

24 sts: 7 = 3 sts (3 sts in the remainder).

Distribute the remainder by adding 1 loop to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the neck of the back, you need to decrease 3 times in 4 loops and 4 times in 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern (fig. 171).
On the pattern of the back, the result of the calculation for decreases along the lines of the shoulders and neckline is applied

Having tied the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with the purl row. Mark with colored thread the middle of the back and the width of the new neck. Divide the knitting in half. Transfer the left half to the spare knitting needle, and knit the right half according to the calculation just made. To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving at the end of the 4 neck loops untied (put them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the purl row to the end. At the beginning of the front row, close 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more loose loops. Now there are 8 loose loops on the thread. Continue knitting as calculated until all shoulder stitches are closed. Thread the neck loops (they remain open). Then cut off the working thread.


Next, knit the left half of the back. To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back by 4 loops to the left (point A in Fig. 171), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end. Turn the work and at the beginning of the purl row, make the 1st decrease on the shoulder (6 loops). Do all subsequent decreases in the same way as on the right half of the back, but only on the seamy side of the work. It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

Practical advice

* Before knitting the armholes of the back, check again if your knitting matches the specified width. Then attach the canvas to you and find out if its length is sufficient side seam.

* After decreasing the loops of the armholes, pay special attention to the symmetry of the pattern: whether it is the same from the edges of the canvas.

* Fastening the loops, you can get a smooth line without "steps" (for example, on the shoulder) if you use the following technique: after closing the required number of loops at the beginning of the row, at the end of the next row remove the edge on the right knitting needle without knitting (thread by loop). Turn the knitting, at the beginning of the row remove, without knitting, the first 2 loops - the edge and the adjacent one, stretch the adjacent one into the edge one and then fasten the required number of loops in the usual way (taking into account that one loop is already fixed). In each successive decrease, use this technique.

* In order to get a smooth line of armholes, you need to reduce the loops as follows: on the right armhole (meaning the right side of the front side of the canvas) at the end of the purl row, do not knit the hem, turn the work and the 1st loop, without knitting, stretch into the hem ; on the left armhole at the end of the front row 2 last loops(including the hem) knit together the front one for the front walls, in the next row remove the hem, placing the thread in front of work.

* It is not recommended to string open loops on a thin cotton thread, since during further processing of the details, open loops seem to be "pulled" into the knitted fabric together with the thread. You should also not use woolen thread for this, especially the color with which you knit: open loops are difficult to distinguish from auxiliary thread. It is best to use an inexpensive thread, such as darning in several folds, and if the loops are large, then you can string them on soutache or thin lace. Before removing the thread, connect its ends, take the part in your other hand and pull the ends and part in opposite directions - from this the loops will align and it will be more convenient to transfer them to the knitting needle.

* Often a yoke is tied on the back. Its pattern, as a rule, differs sharply from the main pattern of the back. This can be a regular elastic or elastic with the loops removed, garter knitting or a pattern that resembles waffles. Depending on the structure of the pattern, the yoke may turn out to be wide and go beyond the pattern or, conversely, shrink. For example, if the main pattern of the back is hosiery, and the yoke is tied with a 1x1 elastic band with the loops removed (see Fig. 63), then it will become narrower than the pattern, if the number of loops does not change when the patterns are changed. In our example, having tied the back to the yoke, you need to add 1 loop in the last row before the yoke at regular intervals. How many additions should you make? The control sample will help to answer this question: cast on 25 loops, knit 3-4 cm in hosiery and go to the 1x1 elastic with the loop removed, without changing the number of loops after the hosiery. Now measure the width of the stocking knit, then the elastic and determine how much hosiery wider than elastic; for example, 1.5 cm. Count how many loops fit in 1.5 cm; for example, 3 is the number of stitches to be added so that the control does not shrink on the elastic. Now find out the interval between the additions: 25 p.: 3 p. = 8 p. Therefore, before the yoke, it is necessary to add 1 loop in one row every 8 loops. It is better to make additions from broaches (see Fig. 112, a) so that new loops are less noticeable. In the next row, you can start the yoke pattern, it will certainly match the pattern.

* Sometimes knitting is trimmed before the yoke. The assemblies are positioned, retreating from the armholes by 4-6 cm. If the assembly is thick, then in one row they knit 2 loops together and then begin the yoke. To make the assemblies more beautiful, we recommend to loosen the structure of the pattern by gradually changing the needles: before reaching the yoke of 8-10 cm, you need to change the needles, take a full length. Having knitted 1.5 - 2 cm, replace the knitting needles, take one more full size, and so on every 1.5 - 2 cm.If there are no required numbers of knitting needles, then try to knit more and more loosely with knitting needles of the same number, but keep in mind that this is not entirely easy for beginner knitters.

To ready knitted the product did not bristle, it is necessary to perform shoulder bevel. This is done in loose rows in 4 - 6 receptions (depending on the height of the slope).

You will get the total number of shoulder loops by multiplying the shoulder width by the number of loops of 1 cm.Then divide the resulting number by 4 (6). Thus, you will find out how many loops you need not to tie in each row. The left shoulder is not tied in the front rows, the right shoulder in the purl rows.

After completing all the decreases, knit all the loops in one row, capturing all the pivoting loops together with the loops of the previous row so that there are no holes. Then close all the shoulder loops, or knit 3-4 more rows of hosiery for an increase in.

You can also perform a shoulder bevel in another way: gradually closing the groups of loops. In this case, the left shoulder will decrease at the beginning of the purl rows, and the right shoulder at the beginning of the front rows.

Most often, during knitting, it is necessary to perform both shoulder bevel and decoration at the same time. So you will have to calculate in advance where the decreases begin earlier and when to start performing another structural element.

On the back, the design of the neckline and shoulder begins approximately at the same time, and on the front half, it is necessary to start the design of the cutout earlier, and proceed to the bevel of the shoulder only at the 2nd or 3rd decrease.

An example of calculation for knitting a shoulder bevel

Knit from the calculation:

shoulder width = 44 rows;

shoulder height = 16 rows.

Make 8 decreases through the row in every 2nd row:

4 times 6 loops and 4 times 5 loops.

How to tie a straight shoulder line

How to calculate and tie a shoulder bevel

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• Knitted sweater for daughter
• Bevel for vest cut

  Girls, save me. We urgently need to figure it out, the whole thing has risen! How to make a bevel of a cutout at a vest, in the description of "Decrease for a cutout bevel: at a distance of 2 sts. From the edge on the right side of the front, knit 2 stitches together. And ...

• Tired of knitting balls ... switched to booties!

  I've already tied a lot of balls! Almost on an industrial scale came out))) gave away 8 of the first rattle balls to familiar kids. And then I tied 9 more ... Ilya is delighted - plays with them ... But I decided that there are enough balls for now ... it's time ...

• Knitted flowers

  Twisted knitted flower. Cast on 40 stitches. Knit 10 rows in rib - purl row, knit row. 11 row ( Right side) - * 5 persons., Turn the left needle in the opposite direction clockwise 360 ​​...