Niche brand perfumery. Selective perfume: what is it? The most famous brands

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... Anyone who has encountered such a perfume does not return to the familiar world of elite fragrances. In the minds of people who were not particularly interested in exclusive perfumery, this is something insanely sophisticated and expensive - that is, a kind of special toy for fashionable idlers who are fed up with ordinary normal “Dior”, “Chanel” or “Kenzo”. Meanwhile, everything is the other way around: fashionable loafers buy, first of all, widely advertised novelties of famous brands, while the main feature of exclusive, or, as it is also called, niche or selective (lat.selectio - choice, selection of the best) perfumery, is practically complete absence of advertising, especially traditional - with top models and movie stars on billboards and glossy spreads. Luxury perfumery - Chanel, Christian dior, Guerlain, Lancome, Valentino, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and others. Top brands appear in fashion magazines. They are widely known, but they are not selective, even though the prices are high. In addition, these brands are represented in almost every perfume and cosmetic store (yes, they all also produce cosmetics, unlike manufacturers of selections). And selective brands, in order to remain a niche perfumery, have no more than 250 points of sale of their products all over the world. Due to such a limited production, the selections are practically not counterfeited, which is quite expensive, so such fragrances simply cannot be generally available. The high cost is explained not only by the limited release of goods to the market, but also by the use of unique high-quality raw materials. " Let's first understand what luxury perfumery is. Such great fashion brands as Chanel, Dior, Prada classify their perfumery as luxury. If their clothes really are, then the fragrances are mass production lines at low cost and posh advertising campaigns to support them. As for the selective, these are always stories, they are always a deep idea, a concept. But the main thing is a different quality of the product. The cost of the components is much higher, they are natural. No advertising! All value is inside the bottle, not around it. Having tried a selective scent, then it is impossible to switch to something from the mass segment, even if it is labeled as a luxury!"- once said the founder of the brand Byredo Ben Gorham in an interview with Fashion & Beauty magazine.

Have you decided to draw your attention to the celebrities of the circle of manufacturers of selectivities? Then start with the most famous selective brands in your circle: Amouage, Annick Goutal, Diptyque, Byredo, E. Coudray, Erno Laszlo, Frederic Malle, Il Profumo, Jo Malone, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Miller Harris, Montale, Parfums de Rosine, Penhaligon, Serge Lutens. The knowledge about these scents is passed "from mouth to mouth", like secret conspiracies of some sorceress. This is perfumery for the elite ...

Complexity or simplicity

Throughout the 20th century, perfumery has steadily turned from an elite product, available only to the bourgeoisie, into a mass product available to everyone. By the 90s, this process reached its climax - the ban on the use of substances of animal origin and the flourishing of the chemical industry led to the fact that the price per 1 ml set by marketers when creating a new product was steadily decreasing, which means that natural components were replaced by synthetics -ic, and expensive synthetic for cheap synthetic. And, of course, globalization and the process of simplification, acceleration and unification common to all traditional industries, which had an irreversible effect on the art of smelling: fragrances began to be produced with the same frequency as clothing collections - several pieces per season, then as before, it took two or three years to create each fragrance in decent houses. As a result, we got slender perfumery lines, for the most part designed for an average youth taste, that is, moderately fresh, moderately sweet, moderately light, moderately funny, moderately sexy and highly politically correct.

Selective perfumery, despite its high quality, is not liked by everyone for its unconventional nature. Many selective perfumes are very "difficult" to perceive and are, so to speak, "for an amateur" scent. An untrained person can simply jump from Norma Kamali Incense from Norma Kamali, Oud Queen Rose from Montale or Gold pour femme from Amouage. Moreover, he will be scared by the smell, and not by the price. Maybe the chosen perfume will simply be "not yours", or maybe you have not yet matured to a special, "perfume-yachny" perception of aromas. Interest in cult and exclusive fragrances presupposes not only and not so much fashion, but knowledge and, oddly enough, culture. For the most part, connoisseurs of such perfumes are people who are distinguished by legibility and aesthetics, a special sensitivity to smells and their components.

Niche brands were created as an alternative to the products of international mega-brands, their relationship can be formulated something like this: commercially play-free affinity and blossoming complexity. There - astronomical advertising budgets, photo models, cheap synthetic components and total distribution, here - oral promotion according to the principle "for those who understand", sale in a strictly limited number of places and the cost of components over $ 1. e. for 1 ml. In the first case, the lion's share of the price you paid for a bottle is often the cost of advertising with a hot top model, in the second - natural ingredients, including the rarest and most valuable. If Dior, Davidoff or Bulgary are perfume brands that are often created by perfume corporations unknown to the general public, then almost all niche brands are created exclusively as perfume brands and are built around one or more perfumers. And therefore rigid conceptual-ness- an inherent property of the best of them. They are alive - and therefore behave on the skin in the most unexpected way. They do not try to be fashionable - on the contrary, they look defiantly out of date or emphatically provocative. Such brands sell not just a smell and not a glossy advertising image, but a complex product consisting of ideas, emotions, memories. The concept of a brand can be simple - for example, a construction game: mono smells that can be mixed with each other, and more complex - for example, smells that correspond to certain memories or emotions, smells that revive old perfumery traditions. Conceptuality determines and, as a rule, a uniform design of bottles for all fragrances of the line.

Traditions are very important in this topic, mainly there is a niche perfumery where there are serious perfumery traditions, mainly in France, England or Italy. There is also Japanese perfumery, but this, like Japanese food or Japanese cosmetics, is a completely different story. English perfumery traditions are less sophisticated than French, English scents are simpler and more intelligible, not as "twisted" as French ones, which, by the way, is what many people like - the difference here is about the same as between French and English food. Italian perfumery is light, as they say, unobtrusive and quite traditional, without any special undertakings.

One of the main signs of a niche perfumery is its uncompromising nature: its creators like to say that any conformism is alien to them, that they make scents not for the needs of marketing or PR, but purely from their own ideas about beauty. It must be admitted that this is really so: these brands were created primarily as a space for free perfumery creativity outside the Procrustean bed of megabrands. The famous perfumer Serge Lutens, the creator of one of the most popular impoverished brands, described how he began to make perfumery, then for the Shiseido brand: “In those days, I was still too timid to dare and insist on my choice of ingredients. To all my suggestions, I systematically received an answer: "Oh, just not this! Impossible!" Exclusive brands follow the exact opposite principle: everything is possible, and the more unusual, especially, the better.

Retro style

Among the selections there is a whole group of brands that create rare scents in the vintage (from French - vintage - antiques in a modern interpretation) style - “like from an old dressing table”. Almost all such fragrances are positioned as old, with a rich history (real or invented), or as a “return to tradition”.

One of the very first, well-known and well-deserved brands - French L "Artisan Parfumeur ... It was created by renowned perfumer Jean Laporte in 1976. Laporte cites “the long tradition of French perfumery” as his source of inspiration. The austere bottles from L "Artisan with a gold cap look quite old. The first scent he created in 1978 was Mure et Musc („ Blackberries and musk“) Literally created a sensation: it reproduced the feeling of a summer garden, ripe berries and leaves heated in the sun. To others, it seems to be the smell of grandmother's dacha, to others - something else just as personal and pleasant. Since then, each L "Artisan fragrance has been accompanied by a story of certain memories that it is intended to revive, each must convey a whole complex of sensations. Dzing! - dry and harsh scent of a circus arena and curtains, leather, ginger and musk. Passage D" Enfer („ Road to hell“) - the scent of the millennium, created in 1999, when everyone was talking about the end of the world: incense as a sign of the heavenly and divine and musk as a sign of the bodily and devilish. La Chasse aux Papillons („ Butterfly hunt“) Is a very unusual and one of the most popular fragrances of the brand, a memory of summer holidays in Normandy. Many of them do not have a distinct vintage look at all and, on the contrary, look very modern. All L'Artisan fragrances are filled in the same pretty bottles and differ only in the color of the label.

One of the merits L "Artisan Parfumeur lies in their innovative pathos - they introduced many scents into the perfume circulation, for example, they were the first to create a scent based on figs - Premier Figuier, figs have since become extremely popular among selectors, and in 2004 - eau de toilette with a scent pineapple Ananas Fizz ("Carbonated pineapple"). At the end of 2005, they carried out a very conceptual action. Any aroma based on natural raw materials will vary depending on the quality of these raw materials, which does not occur year after year. And so L "Artisan bought up the entire Tunisian orange blossom harvest, which this year turned out to be outstanding, and launched a series called Grand Cru, deciding to apply the principles of winemaking to perfumery - the value determines the harvest year. This is how the first of them appeared - Fleur d" Orange 2005. Tunisian orange blossom was enough for 2990 bottles, each of which is numbered, in a few years they will certainly be on sale at perfume auctions. In 2006, the next came out - this time from daffodils. What else to say about this wonderful brand? Many wonderful perfumers have worked and are working with L "Artisan and there is nothing better for getting to know the selections - among more than 30 names, everyone will find something of their own, besides, they are all unisex. And one more thing: they have a wonderful flagship boutique in Paris , exactly opposite the Louvre, where it is very good to train in distinguishing notes of smells: there are displayed in a row jars with essences and all kinds of natural raw materials.

Jean Francois Laporte created another brand - Maitre parfumeur et gantier („Master of perfumery and glove making“), In order to revive the historical traditions of perfumery. Using only rare and high quality natural ingredients, Laporte has created an exquisite perfume line based on a 17th century formula. It was the "golden age" for the perfumer profession. At that time, there were 250 glove perfumers in Paris who worked in accordance with the charter of the guild given to them by King Louis XIV. In their shops, they sold perfumed gloves, the epitome of the elegance of the era, aromatic essences, hair powder and cosmetics. Their shops, mainly concentrated in the historic center of Paris, were richly decorated: elegant furniture and armchairs, walls covered with Spanish leather, marble floors, decorative mosaics and soft light. The quintessence of sophisticated elegance. When customers came to buy their perfumes, they lingered for a short while in the "boutique" to chat while the perfumer fulfills their order. Hence the name "perfume salon" or "perfume cabinet" arose. This painting inspired the creator of the Parisian boutique, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. He decided to exactly restore the atmosphere of the "perfumery cabinet" of the 17th century, where the interior design was dominated by gold, dark green and crimson-red shades.

Fragrances Maitre parfumeur are quite consistent with their concept: they are complex, often heavy, intricately revealed on the skin (like all natural scents) and very French - in a word, absolutely gorgeous and very memorable. For example, Eau de Gantier ("Water of the Glovers") is very unusual, combining currants and raspberries with musk, sandalwood and ambergris. Maitre Parfumeur has several musks - there is Fraicher Muskussime (“Fresh musk”), there is Sanguine Muskussime (“Musk red orange"), there is Rose Muskussime ("Musk rose"). The brand has a lot of very effective masculine scents that discerning women like to use (the right perfumers say “wear”). Now Jean-Paul Millet Lage is engaged in the brand. Perfumery products Maitre parfumeur et gantier is distinguished by high quality workmanship, original compositions created using natural and expensive components.

One of the most distinguished French selective companies - Diptyque(Deeptic), created in Paris in 1968 by three friends: Desmond Knox-Leat, Yves Couslan and Christian Gautreau. The same familiar story - a 16th century perfume recipe accidentally found in an old folio, on the basis of which the first product was created - L "Eau" (simply "Water"). Then they had many more hits: for example, the pink-spicy Opone, enthusiastic citrus-strawberry Oyedo, fig Philosykos The brand is fashionable, especially famous for its scented candles: if you are viewing a photo report from the house of a star in Vogue magazine, you will certainly see them in a photo of a bath or bedroom. the city ", then it is Diptyque candles that will stand at the head of Kerry Bradshaw's bed, preparing for another date. Once you know the sensual aromas of Diptyque candles - herbal, floral, woody and fruity - you will no longer be able to live in a fresh world." It's like a drug, only in good sense”Jokes the current managing director of Diptyque Mohamed Latua. Natural origin of all essences used Diptyque, precious ingredients that are almost impossible to get hold of and the very best noses that make up flawless combinations are what makes the fragrances Diptyque- a cult. In addition to loyal customers (sometimes already in the third generation) of the world famous scented candles, the house of Diptyque has a huge number of fans of body fragrances. The first eau de toilette was released in 1968 and was called very simply - L'Eau. It is a spicy blend of cinnamon, geranium, sandalwood, rose and clove. It was followed in 1973 by the very dry and sensual blend of Middle Eastern spices L'Autre, and in 1975 by L'Eau Trois, inspired by the resinous aromas of vegetation from the coast of northern Greece. In 1975 Diptyque created the unique Vinaigre de Toilette, which tones the body and softens the skin, which can also be used as a hair rinse.

Diptyque Is more than a legend. Over the 40 years of its existence, Diptyque has become an iconic French perfume house. Superstars, presidents and fashion elite adore Diptyque's exquisite body and home fragrances, and of course the famous scented candles. In 1961, three friends Desmon Knox-Leat, Christian Gautreau and Yves Couelan opened a hand-dyed fabric shop. Their original idea was to sell cotton fabrics that they designed themselves. But this idea did not touch the hearts of the Parisian snobs. Then a fresh idea dawned on friends to sell together with the fabrics candles corresponding to the bright colors of the materials. On the advice of a candle-maker in 1963, they created the first scented candles with the scent of hawthorn and pine. Perfumed candles - no one had heard of this at that time. Today, the Diptyque line has 48 different fragrances - the largest collection in the world.

Among the many in love with Diptyque masterpieces that this house has ever had are Elton John, Princess Diana, ex-President of France Francois Mitterrand, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer, Liz Hurley, Donatella Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Catherine Deneuve, Kate Moss and Christine Scott Thomas. Diptyque created signature scented candles for his great friend and most loyal customer, John Galliano. Diptyque also has some of the nicest labels in the beautiful Victorian style. Therefore, the fact that it was under this brand that the signature scent of John Galliano came out is practically a regularity.

Another popular selective project is the brand Amouage ... This Arabic project, created in 1988, from the Sultan of Oman, who was concerned about the revival of national perfumery traditions (in ancient times and in the Middle Ages, they were really strong). The project was conceived on a feudal scale: the sultan called on the famous Frenchman Guy Robert, the third generation perfumer who created Dioressence (Dior), Madame Rochas (Rochas) and many other hits, inviting him to “not deny yourself anything” - to use any ingredients of any cost. Which Guy Robert did, using such precious ingredients as, for example, silvery incense. Robert created the first fragrance Amouage - Gold, and then the brand developed independently. The most expensive perfume in the Amouage line is Crystal Gold. Perfume House of Oman advertises its creations under the slogan "The most valuable perfume in the world".

Today Amouage- is no longer the leader in terms of price. The brand remains a leader in the use of natural ingredients. Perfume development " Amouage”Was occupied by the legendary French perfumer Guy Robert. In the process of creation, he used more than 120 natural ingredients from all over the world. The basis of the Amouage perfumery is the incense of the Dhofar Mountains. Crystal Gold can be considered a classic oriental scent. Basic notes: Arabian stone rose and silvery incense. The gifts of the Magi in the trinity: gold, myrrh and incense. The rich evening aroma exudes "legends of antiquity". Powdery and woody notes of violet root, cedar and sandalwood, sensuality of ambergris, civet and musk make you believe in the naturalness of each component. Male version complemented by oak moss and patchouli. To bring the scent closer to a chypre composition, woody notes are intensified. Amouage cannot be "put on" with jeans and a T-shirt. A formal suit is a must. It is better if you look over 35 years old. Expensive exclusive silver bottle is made in the form of a saber handle of an Arab blade (khanjar or dagger). The bottle can be 24 carat gold plated.

Amouage often evokes diametrically opposite reactions: he has ardent admirers who consider these richest fragrances to be the pinnacle of perfumery art, and equally ardent opponents who call them "kitsch, screaming and vulgar." But no one remains indifferent - these smells are from the category “the girl passed - everyone noticed”. In addition, Amouage is famous for its bottles, which are covered with different kinds gold and precious stones (for this, English court jewelers were mobilized). We love the brand very much - our people are close to solid oriental luxury.

French brand Montale is also related to the theme of the Middle East. Its creator, Pierre Montal Dolgove, once did business there, and then returned to Paris and converted all his oriental impressions into whimsical fragrances that very unexpectedly reveal themselves on the skin. The greatest French perfumer Pierre Montal lived in Saudi Arabia for 3 years and created for the most influential sheikhs of the Arabian Peninsula. Montale resembles oriental attars - traditional Arab perfumery, which does not use alcohol, but only mixtures of various oils (aloe tree, rose, jasmine, etc.). The bottles of this brand are made of aluminum (so that the fragrance does not deteriorate under the influence of light) and look quite original. Montale has some very decent scents - for example, Patchouli Leaves and Vetiver des Sables are praised on numerous perfume forums, they have two interesting musks - Ginger Musk and White Musk. The special pride of the brand is the line of scents based on the oil of the oriental oud tree, which really will not be confused with anything even by a person who is absolutely insensitive to perfumery. Single-handed perfumery of Arab kings and sultans since the beginning of time, with sex-enhancing attractants. Perfumery Montale created for Arab kings, queens, sultans and princesses with the rarest and most precious fragrances, according to the ancient tradition of oriental perfumery.

Montale- presents the precious aromas of Arabia in metal bottles. Valuable species of wood, frankincense, amber, precious aromatic oils combined in aromas that look like a magic potion or love potion. Montale perfumery is the most concentrated and lasting. Presents 3 main lines: Satisfying the line, the male line and the female line.

Oat oil used in perfumery of the East from time immemorial. Oriental scents with oud tree oil ("OUD PUR ORIENTAL" - "Pure oil of the oud tree"; "OUD CUIR D" ARABIE "-" Arabian leather oil ";" ROYAL OUD "-" Royal oil ";" OUD QUEEN FLOWERS " - "Royal flower oil"; "OUD AMBRE" - "Ambergris oil" and "ATTAR" - " Essential oil attara ") is the pinnacle of perfumery. An old recipe known to a small circle of initiates. A scented ointment from Arabia, extracted from the roots of the Oud tree, and aged for several years in a special pit, protected from temperature extremes and sunlight: from which, in a secret way, is later obtained oud oil: a mystical aroma with aphrodisiac properties. Arabian flavors made with the addition of Oudwood oils is a millennial, secret process known very a small number of people. His tenderness and wealth is determined by his antiquity. Each of the lines consists of the most noble, environmentally friendly and natural ingredients: Citrus fruits from Italy, Bulgarian rose, French rose, Turkish rose, satin cedar tree, Mysore sandalwood, spices, white musk, amber, Olibanian pearls. The perfumery of Arab sheikhs and sultans is mysterious and attractive. This 50 ml aluminum bottle in a black silk pouch has been specially designed to protect fragrances from light. Each of the fragrances is a work of art, a particle of the world of harmony; sophisticated, sophisticated symbiosis of a combination of East and West.

In 2006 Montale Paris presented a new perfume Aromatic Lime... As the name suggests, this perfume is a variation on the citrus theme. An unexpected and rarely used combination of citrus and woody notes in perfumery is the essence of this fragrance. It contains notes of Sicilian lime, cedar, sandalwood with herbal shades and notes of greenery.

Mark Les Parfumes de Rosine also based on tradition and history. Its creators strive to revive the tradition of creating fragrances of the old Les Parfumes de Rosine, which was created in 1911 by the famous Parisian fashion designer Paul Poiret. The project is now being carried out by the granddaughter of Napoleon III, Marie-Helene Rougeon. After working for some time at Givenchy and Pierre Balmain, Marie-Helene Rougeon introduced Parfums de Rosine as a response to women's need for a new, more individual and selective approach to perfumery. All the fragrances of the company are built around the airy scent of a summer rose, ranging from Damask to Bulgarian rose. Les Parfum de Rosine Are fragrances offering French personality, quality, beauty, elegance and lightness. All this is symbolized by the rose flower. The brand's fragrances are very beautiful and resemble old perfumes, and for rose lovers Les Parfumes de Rosine is just a godsend. The fragrances of the Les Parfumes de Rosine brand are recognized all over the world as the most interesting pink compositions - no one else has such a variety of variations of this scent. They are also highly regarded for the quality of perfumery products made with natural oils and luxurious packaging.

Of this kind of brands, you can also name Histoires de Parfums in the popular style of old French perfumery. Histoires de Parfums is the brand that devotes its creations to traditions, famous personalities and the way of life of the 17th-19th centuries. For example, you can choose a perfume dedicated to those personalities, echoes of whose character traits you feel in yourself. If you consider yourself a passionate dreamer like Georges Sand, your fragrance is 1804. The author's signature perfume smells of notes of fruits and flowers, amber and spices. Which adds sensuality and stamina to the perfume. For the fatal beauties, Histoires de Parfums takes the image of Mata Hari (Margareta Geertruid Zelle, 1876-1917) - a famous dancer and spy - and creates an oriental elixir - "1876". Histoires de Parfums also encapsulates masculine characters. Romantically - the exciting story of Casanova in 1725, the muscular and passionate character of the Marquis de Sade in 1740, a strong cocktail of adventure and freshness in memory of Jules Verne - 1828. Histoires de Parfums imparts fragrance and color. Blank Violette - powdery violet, Noir Patchouli - mystical patchouli, Vert Pivoine - elegant peony. Histoires de Parfums also have perfumes, candles, incense sticks and all kinds of essences in store for the house.

Let's remember a wonderful English stamp Pecksniff "s and her wonderful female scent Floriental, a very interesting brand and also English Czech & Speeke, once Hungarian, Patyka (five stylized ancient perfumes, with the highest content of natural ingredients), Italian Carthusia as well as a completely new series of fragrances dedicated to New York City Bond No.9 and a separate line - Comme des Garcons.

Even though the smells Comme des Garcons sold in any chain store, the brand also has 6 lines, which are sold only in her boutiques, and these scents, without any discounts, are selective: Leaves („ Leaves“Dedicated respectively to the leaves of lily, mint, suza and tea); Red (everything is made with red ingredients: red flowers, mahogany, red fruits and red spices); "Philosophical" line Incense (from Japanese - incense, incense), the so-called religious, or spiritualistic series dedicated to the most famous religious centers - Avignon, Indian Jaisalmir, Kyoto, Moroccan Kuarzazat and our Zagorsk; Cologne (three eighteenth-century colognes - anbar, that is, amber, vetiver and citrus); Sherbet ("edible" scents - cinnamon, mint, rhubarb) and the synthetic series that made a lot of noise ( resin, sky, dry cleaning, soda and garage). Everything, as you can see from the names, is rigidly conceptual, the most popular are “religious” and “synthetic”.

Fragrance line Incense from Comme des Garcons- this is a perfumery respect to the ancient cities: the fragrances are called Avignon (France or Essence of Vice), Ouarzazate (Morocco or Neutral Stripe), Jaisalmer (India or the Lost City) and ... - Zagorsk (Russia or Russian Monastery). Each scent of the line is inspired by the main spiritual teachings of humanity. Smells in glossy black bottles evoke a chain of associations, tune in to reflection and spiritual quest. For thousands of years, people around the world have burned incense to honor ancestors, purify the air, accompany rituals, or simply for the pure pleasure it brings. The new Incense Kyoto also embodies a spiritual quest. The fragrance is reminiscent of "a spiritual journey to the serene temples of the city known as the Heart of Japan." Buddhism and Synthaism. Dry and calm, imbued with the sophistication of smoky vetiver and the wisdom of juniper, bathed in the serenity of cypress, cedar and coffee. A scent for meditation.

Etat Libre d "Orange- a new line of niche perfumery, the production of which began in France in September 2006. The line includes 6 unisex fragrances: Jasmin et Cigarette (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). Basic notes are jasmine absolute, tobacco, oats, apricot, tonka bean, tumeric, cedar and musk; Encens & Bubblegum (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). Basic notes: raspberry, peach, lily of the valley, orange, vanilla, musk, incense; Vraie Blonde (perfumer Antoine Maisondieu). The scent is based on a combination of notes of aldehydes, champagne, rose, peach, white pepper, myrrh, patchouli, suede; Secretions Magnifiques (Antoine Lie perfumer). Basic notes - iod? Accord, adrenaline accord, blood accord, milky accord, iris, sandalwood, opopanax; Je Suis Un Homme (Antoine Lie perfumer). Basic notes: bergamot, bitter orange, citron, myrtle, cinnamon, cloves, cognac, leather, patchouli, animalic notes; Putain des Palaces (perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer). Basic notes: pink absolute, violet, leather, lily of the valley, tangerine, ginger, rice powder, amber, animalic notes.

The name of the perfumer

The next kind of niche fragrances are name brands, usually named after their creators. And here there are a number of brands that, according to formal characteristics, fit here, but conceptually belong rather to the first group. These are the British Creed and Penhaligon's, as well as the French E. Coudray.

In all advertising brochures Creed describes the venerable family perfumery traditions associated with the colonial era. However, from many connoisseurs of perfumery history, I had to hear great doubts about the existence of these traditions. Nevertheless, Creed makes the smells decent, typically English - clean and intelligible, fully consistent with their names. True, the brand has several fragrances invented with intricacy unusual for the British - these are the rich colonial Santal Imperial and Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie.

London Penhaligon "s- a classic English perfume brand, without a doubt: the hairdresser William Henry Penhaligon supplied perfumes to the royal court and to the houses of the British nobility. Here, too, almost all the smells correspond to the names written on the label: lily, bells, lily of the valley, English farm. There are almost no surprises, although there are a few more fancy options - for example, Malabah or Artemisia. The first scent of Penhaligon "s was called Hammam Bouquet and, according to one version, was the first oriental scent in the history of perfumery. Any sales consultant of the brand, presenting scents, will tell you that this is the favorite scent of Princess Diana (bells), this one is Sting (Quercus), and this Alexander Rosenbaum buys from us two bottles a month (Hammam Bouquet) In principle, English scents can be defined quite simply - for those who do not like French, the classic opposition "English-French" works here quite clearly: striving for elegance and brilliance vs sanity and clarity (sometimes, however, not without eccentricity).

Scent By Alexis - handmade, piece perfumes are a special category in the world of elite perfumery. New Yorker Alexis Karl is a true perfume artist who creates exclusive perfume oils. His latest creation is called Courtesan and, according to the author, was inspired by "the image of the Renaissance temptress." At the heart of the scent is a violet flirting with green tea and an orchid. Femme Fatale - the fragrance is inspired by the image of the femme fatale from the 30s. It contains amber, nutmeg, ylang-ylang, a slight hint of jasmine, vanilla, a mixture secret ingredients. All this makes Femme Fatale a dangerously seductive scent.

Annick goutal - the famous brand name was created by the former French model Annick Goutal. The brand's success story is classic for niche perfumery. A person just starts doing what he really likes, and as a result, he does it so well that others like it. Annik Güthal is the daughter of a pastry chef, a wonderful perfumer and a very family girl. Gutal did all her scents for someone or because of someone: Passion (tuberose and jasmine from Grasse) are dedicated to her first husband, Grand Amour (lily, hyacinth, jasmine, Turkish rose) and "Sands" - just some a magical smell to the second, Eau de Camille (garden after the rain: freshly cut grass, jasmine, verbena, honeysuckle) are made for the daughter, and Eau de Charlotte for the stepdaughter. Essentially a family album. Now the fragrances of this brand are made by Annik's daughter Camilla.

Edmond Coudre, founder of the brand E. Coudray , was a chemist, and in the 19th century the brand entered the French top. During the reign of Louis XVIII, Edmond Coudray was honored to become the official supplier of colognes, creams, soaps, lipsticks and other "beauty products" to the royal courts of England, Italy, Austria, Portugal, Brazil, Russia. Soon his best creations were born: "The Queen's Dream", "The Tsar's Bouquet" and the famous "Divine Water", still beloved by his fans to this day. This brand, along with such as L. T. Piver, Houbigant, Guerlain, quickly became one of the most famous and entered the top five best brands perfumery of the XIX century. Then the brand actually disappeared and was revived only in the 70s. Of course, the old formulas of fragrances were modernized and renamed, but their distinct antiquity has been preserved: they are all whimsical and elegant in French. The bottle is a replica of the crystal

original in Art Nouveau style. Over time, the House of E. Coudray has changed and developed: recipes were reworked, new lines appeared, some famous fragrances were modified, the formulas of which were carefully kept in archives for many decades. One of the best creations was a wonderful perfumed body cream, which laid the foundation for the bath line and its "boudoir" concept. The E. Coudray perfume house entered the third millennium, paying tribute to the company's traditions and remaining as attractive to women as it was during the time of Louis XVIII.

Brand Erno laszlo — selective cosmetics and perfumery itself high level created by dermatologist Erno Laszlo. It is worth noting that Nicole Kidman and Madonna use the products of this particular brand.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle - the brand that most fully embodies the philosophy of selective fragrances. Frederic Malle - a man who has nothing to do with the creation of perfumery - just gathered nine famous perfumers and invited them to create scents at their own discretion. And all this is solely out of love for art, without caring in the least about promotion, sales dynamics and, in general, the project's profitability. The result is fifteen extraordinary scents, each of which is a work of perfumery art so much that there is no point in mentioning separate names. Any self-respecting connoisseur and lover of perfumery tries to collect the entire collection at least in samples, it's like an academic collection of works of a classic for a bibliophile. The ideal embodiment of an ideal project is unfortunately not available in Russia.

There are selective brands that were made by famous people who want to create a space for free creativity, the most famous of them are the brands of Serge Lutens ( Serge lutens) and Jean-Claude Ellena - the best "nose" of France. The first worked for a long time as an art director and image consultant Shiseido, and in 2000 created his own brand Serge Lutens. Especially for the perfumery images invented by Luthans for Shiseido, the Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido store was created in Paris, which Luthans himself decorated. It is there that the full range of his mesmerizing perfumery is now sold, and only part of it (14 scents) is included in the export line. The one that is sold in Paris is called “bells” among perfume fans (because of the bottles and the round cap), the one that is in the rest of the world is called “coffins” (for the same reason); and one and the other - an object for them longed for. Lutance's fragrances are truly fabulous and unlike anything else. Luthans himself - a man of a purely French aesthetic type, melancholic and admirer of Baudelaire - resides permanently in Marrakesh, where he has a house like a museum and a picturesque garden. Accordingly, the entire perfumery of the brand is oriental: but these are not original local traditions, not the Eastern East, but the Western East, passed through the filter of the venerable European tradition of mastering Eastern aesthetics, that is, Orientalist. That is why even people who, in principle, do not like oriental perfumery adore Lutens. Almost every scent of his - powdery Clair de Musc, Datura Noir with the scent of dope, honey Miel de Bois, Daim Blond with the scent of suede, woody Cedre is a hit, and each is the flesh of the great French perfumery tradition. Best of all, the impression of Lutance's fragrances is described with the help of an oxymoron - a highly fashionable classic.

Unlike Lutens, who comes up with a perfume image, but does not create the fragrance formula itself, Jean-Claude Ellena ( Jean-claude ellena) - one of the most honored among the living perfumers. Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena can work on five compositions at once. In France, such people are called "nose" for their unique sense of smell, memory for smells, the ability to decompose a fragrance into notes and compose the desired melody from them. There are no more than 80 of them, marked for free. A leading Hermes perfumer, like the once great Edmond Roudnitska ( Edmond roudniska). Only Chanel can afford the luxury of having a court alchemist. Jacques Polge was a legend and myth during his lifetime. The rest of the world famous companies invite perfumers from outside, from Givaudan, IFF or Firmenich. Ellena has an exemplary perfumer biography. His father taught him the craft. At the age of 17, Jean-Claude got involved in the work. A notable success and a milestone in his biography was First by Van Cleef and Arpels, which he created while working for Givaudan in 1976. Ellena loves to tell how in the beginning she used up to 150 components, and today only 10-20. It is important for him not to pick up a gigantic colorful bouquet, but to find a unique, exquisitely simple solution. The credentials of the perfumer include L'Eau Parfume by Bvlgari, Declaration by Cartier and Cologne Bigarade by Frederic Malle. Ellena worked for a long time with the German company Symrise.

Jean-Claude Ellena named his own brand very conceptually - The Different Company , which sounds like the motto of all selections - "Another company" (or "Special company", which does not diminish the conceptuality). Ellena lives in the main French perfumery center - Grasse, his family business - they make fragrances together with her daughter Celine. There are only five fragrances, each named after the main component - Osmanthus, Bois d "Iris, Rose Poivree, Bergamote, Jasmin de Nuit, each is expressed peppery, each has a huge percentage of natural oils, and each makes a strong impression. People collect TDC smells in the same way, like the Frédéric Malle collection, designed by renowned Parisian designer Thierry de Bashmakoff, each massive and heavy glass bottle is wrapped in black leather.

French perfume brands M. Micallef - an amazing combination of art and divine scent. Bohemian crystal bottles decorated hand-painted and sparkling Swarovski crystals. Delightful fragrances and exquisite bottles are the product of a collaboration between two extremely creative and dynamic people living in the French city of Cannes - the artist Martine Micallef and her husband Jeffrey Newman. “We work with passion and love to create a fusion of Art and Fragrance,” says Martina Micallef. The philosophy of the M. Micallef brand is based on the avant-garde idea proposed by the couple: to give an exclusive perfumery a worthy "frame" in the form of unique bottles, hand-painted by Martina Micallef and decorated with Swarovski crystals.

I would like to say about the Italian brand Lorenzo Villoresi ... Contrary to what has been said above about Italian perfumery in general, this brand makes aromas bright and full-blooded: very intelligible patchouli, austere sandalwood, intriguing incense, thick spices and delicate musk. Perhaps because Vilorezi himself trained himself in creating individual scents for his clients.

French perfume brand Parfums de Nicolai - created by Patricia de Nikolai, granddaughter of one of the Guerlains, namely Pierre Guerlain, who rightfully belongs to the recognized masterpiece from Guerlain - Rue de la Paix. She is not involved in the family business. De Nicolai's style is noticeably different from Guerlain's, her strong point is pastel flower bouquets. However, her main success was, perhaps, the oriental fruit perfume Sacre Bleu who is said to be very fond of Catherine Deneuve. The aroma begins almost rustic berry (currants, and raspberries, and apricots, and peaches), if this berry was not flavored with something unidentifiable, aldehyde and green at the same time. And this note gives the whole fruit basket a certain sophistication. And then there is an overflow - jasmine and daffodils begin to sound. At the same time, another rose is added - a delicate coral rose. And powderiness appears - a kind of rose in an intricate powdered hairstyle. But this is just the frame - the main daffodils and jasmine. Fabulous aroma!

Keiko mecheri creating international and highly professional fragrances. All Keiko Mecheri perfumes combine austere design and at the same time sensual and luxurious, but always harmonious content. Harmony for Keiko is the main word. Perhaps at first glance, the proximity of absinthe with vanilla, Russian leather with jasmine or pomegranate peel with musk will seem strange, but the magical ability to combine and balance makes these fragrances unusual masterpieces.

British brands - Miller Harris and Jo Malone. Perfumer Lin Harris, the founder of a very young brand Miller harris inspire travel. Her fragrances tell, for example, about a trip to Ibiza - "Figue Amere". The main character aroma - ripe figs surrounded by floral and woody notes. "Fleur du Matin" - morning flower. Lin was inspired to create this fragrance by a trip to an island in the South of France. There is a scent dedicated to the restaurant - Saint-Germain, perfume "Feuilles de Tabac" (from French - "tobacco leaves"). Although the scent may seem truly masculine (allspice, pine needles, white geranium, tobacco leaves, patchouli), it also attracts the attention of women. Especially women who smoke. It does not create a stark contrast, like the frivolous floral or aquatic scents with the smell of a freshly smoked cigarette. In the Miller Harris collection you can also find excellent relaxing things - body oil, bath oil and special scented candles to create a relaxing atmosphere. Kate Moss and Kylie Minogue, Helena Bonham-Carter, Christine Scott-Thomas and Sienna Miller are loyal fans of Miller Harris fragrances.

Designer Mary Jo Malone releasing his perfume masterpieces, he adheres to the philosophy of creating "personal fragrances", fragrances for true connoisseurs, which would reflect the state of mind of their owner. Perfume not only for all occasions, but for all moods.

I would also like to mention the legendary brand Perfums d "Orsey, created in the 19th century by the famous Count D "Orsay, and wonderful men's fragrances from Geo F. Trumper... Geo F. Trumper is a well-known trade mark in England, created back in 1875 by the royal court hairdresser and barber George F. Trumper, as well as producing colognes and aftershave lotions more than a hundred years ago. Trumper's fragrances - Astor, Curzon, Spanish Leather, Sandalwood, Lime Extract, as well as the signature fragrances - Marlboro and Wellington - are hidden in frosted glass bottles topped with a gold lid. shaped like a crown, and each of them is equipped with a medallion with the inscription "handmade". And these words refer not only to the packaging, but also to what is inside. And if you remember the recent statement of American chemists who believe that it is smells that attract people to each other, Trumper's creations become truly priceless. “Gentlemen’s grooming products since 1875” is written on every bottle of this brand. Smells and quality are appropriate. It looks like the Geo F.Trumper is almost a win-win gift.

Mono smell

The third group is the most straightforward, least of all loaded with all sorts of ideas and, in my opinion, less interesting. This is a perfume created as an easy entertainment. It is these brands that are most often used by fashionable girls, if they still get to the selective ones. The concept here is not at all in complexity and naturalness, but often exactly the opposite - these can be scents with a pronounced synthetic image, like, for example, a brand Clean which has a smell called "Laundry" that smells like washing powder. Another typical example is the French brand Comptoir sud Pacifique, whose fragrances are poured into aluminum bottles and separated by color. There is the Vanille series, where all the aromas of the islands, starting with a sparkling orange mixed with banana cream, surrounded by a heart note, where clover is mixed with the herbal scent of a banana leaf. A delicate base note combines vanilla and white rum, or Amour de Cacao, which reproduces the scent of chocolate brownie, as perfume shopkeepers say, and this is the scent they usually recommend to those who ask for something chocolate. It is for such lovers of synthetic chocolate and other similar things that such brands were invented.

Molinard Are aromas from Grasse. The history of the Molinard company begins in 1848, when the famous chemist Molinard secretly created some excellent fragrances and began selling them in a small shop in the city center. This is how the perfume Molinard Jeune was born. In 1855, the Molinard boutique became a large factory that produced and distributed perfumes in France and Europe. In 1900, the Molinard company opened a salon in a classic provincial style, the first clients of which were the British and Russian nobility, who preferred to relax in the winter on the French Riviera. Queen Victoria, during her stay in Grasse, also liked the Molinard fragrances. To this day, the Molinard salon, whose interior is decorated with antique furniture of the 16th-18th centuries, is famous for the most famous clients. Molinard peaked in popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. XX century - the time of the release of luxurious perfumes, the most famous of which were Habanita ( Habanita), created in 1921 and considered one of the most popular in the world to this day. Habanita is different. Either an evil witch, or a good sorceress. Now it takes you into the autumn forest thicket, then suddenly throws it "in the midst of a noisy ball." But her breathing is not interrupted. Plans and episodes change smoothly and evenly in the play of the imagination. Notes: Powder, white flowers (ylang, jasmine, orange blossom), rose. The balance of the components is perfect. Even in modern processing. Powder, vetiver, patchouli, spices. Powder, vanilla, amber. Leather. Smoke from cigars ... And Molinard also releases cheerful aromas ... There is a tomato-cherry, there is a peach-mango ...

Molinard is a family business that has grown over the years. Until now, Molinard remains one of the leading perfume houses in the world. The Molinard family business has been flourishing for five generations and is today a world-renowned perfume company. Now the traditions of the Molinard dynasty are continued by Jean-Pierre Lerouge-Benard. Molinard is a member of the French Perfumery Committee and the French Perfumery Federation, two electoral organizations that guarantee the quality and authenticity of their members' products.

The brands of this variety are brands that often represent a perfume designer: a set of mono-scents that can be mixed with each other. The budget version of such a toy is a brand Demeter , where they are poured into practically pharmacy bubbles as reproducing natural smells such as tomato tops, mignonette or dust. But there are more noble brands that offer their customers a similar attraction - for example, perfume Etro , which is accompanied by a special mixing brochure, or kits under the brand name NellyRodi Scent factory, consisting of eight odors, packed in a plastic box lined with foam rubber. Here the smells are quite noble, classic without any mockery - incense, musk, patchouli, etc., and their quality is very decent.

Italian company Etro known for her experiments with oriental colorfulness and expression in clothing. She extended her original concept of the image of a modern person to the world of smells. Since 1989, Etro's fragrances have attracted people of unconventional tastes and interests. The brand's aromatic compositions are based on precious oils - frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, patchouli, etc. However, its uniqueness lies not so much in their use as in the unusual combination and strength of the ingredients. As a result, persistent, sometimes spicy, and sometimes fresh aromas are born, which are so distinctive that the Etro perfume cannot be confused with any other. The person who wears the scent seems to be just as distinctive. Etro... The idea of a unique and deeply personal combination of fragrances has found another embodiment. All Etro fragrances are ideal to be applied one on top of another. It is original and exclusive. From now on, fans of the brand can independently try themselves as a perfumer and wear their own unique scent. For doubters Etro publishes catalogs with advice on creating compositions. All Etro fragrances are ideal to be applied one on top of another. It is original and exclusive. The effect will be amazing. Try applying more than one scent to your skin. Etro's natural essences change on the skin and therefore the scent becomes very personal. Colognes have a light, diffused scent, Eau de Toilette- stronger and more persistent.

Not so long ago, a new name appeared in selective perfumery - the brand Le Labo, whose signature boutique opened recently in New York, Manhattan. The boutique does not look like the usual perfume shops, it looks more like a pharmacy warehouse or laboratory. There are 10 fragrances with simple names - Iris 39, Fleur d`Oranger 27, Ciste 18, Patchouli 24, Neroli 36, etc. - 3 for men, 3 for unisex, 3 for women and one alcohol-free for children. Le Labo was founded by two people who held leadership positions in cosmetics companies. They are united by the desire to create the best product from the highest quality raw materials, and not to get carried away with marketing, as is customary with many brands. By the way, you don't have to limit yourself to the ephemeral line presented, but create your own fragrance under the guidance of an experienced chemist-perfumer who works in the boutique. In addition, all components are sourced directly from French Grasse, all housed in giant glass bottles and just waiting in the wings.

Taking into account the characteristics of mono-smells, you can choose them according to your mood, they will prolong your state of mind. You can fight bad mood or boredom, it is enough to use aromas that evoke pleasant, uplifting associations.

Afterword

Many, when trying exclusive scents for the first time, get a little confused and say that they have something in common. In reality, the situation is the other way around - all mass smells have something in common, and the selections are just so different from them that the very fact of this striking difference is taken for similarity. After several trips to the store where selective brands are sold, the situation changes diametrically - already all the usual fragrances seem indistinguishable. After some time, you may be surprised to find that you begin to distinguish not only bergamot from vetiver, but even tuberose from just a rose. Well, when there are more than five exclusive bottles in the house, we can say with confidence: you have a strong attachment to what looks like a passion for vintage wine, cigars or Chinese tea.

Do you wanna be bright? Do you want to remember the scent of your perfume, and then subconsciously look for it on others? Do you want to be unique? Do you want to be different from the rest? Want! Then you need to find your selector!

Article prepared by Natalia Lukyanova
based on materials from electronic and printed publications

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Perfumery Cosmetics Wholesale

In this post, let's talk about such a phenomenon as “niche perfumery”. This concept is not very well known to a wide audience, and it is not at all surprising if you do not know what it is. It's time to familiarize yourself with this term and find out how niche perfumery (selective) differs from luxury and ordinary fragrances.

What does selective perfumery smell like?

Do you love scents, and there are several “tasty” bubbles on your home shelf with cosmetics? What are these names?

If we looked into several apartments in an ordinary house in any city, then, most likely, we would have come across those names that often flash on television or in gloss. Dior, Dolce Gabanna, Versace ... These names do not leave the pages of magazines, and even children who cannot read know these words. So, fashion brands that are so famous all over the world are not niche perfumery. It turns out that fragrances are classified into three groups, which differ in price, fame and, of course, what they smell like.

Mass market, luxury and niche perfumery

It is true that advertising is the engine of commerce. It is the work of marketers that 90% determines what will be fashionable in the new season and what you buy from clothes or cosmetics to feel confident. Advertising also promotes perfumery. Unbeknownst to yourself, under the influence of beautiful videos and unusual pictures in the magazine, first of all you approach certain brands in the store and choose something to your liking.

So, the first and most common group of fragrances is mass market, or consumer goods. Such perfumes are most often sold in hypermarkets, cosmetic stores, and, due to their high demand, also in small cosmetic stores and crossings. It is not difficult to counterfeit such perfumes, and fakes are sold out with a bang, because these scents are known to everyone - from young to old. The smells are not complicated, pleasant and easily distinguishable. Curiously, even in the last century, fashion houses have been preparing fragrances for 2-3 years, and now they release them once a season. It is the mass market that is mainly purchased, it occupies about 75% of the market share.

Luxury perfumery is more expensive than the mass market, but is also widely advertised. An example is trade marks Chanel, Guerlain, and the most commonly produced fragrances fashion houses clothes. However, jewelry and perfume houses are not lagging behind, and new scents are one hundred percent consistent fashion trends... Why is that? The fact is that perfumers involved in product development conduct grandiose audience research prior to release, identifying preferences and expectations. Who creates luxury perfumes? Most often, a whole army of creators stands behind a new work, who strictly follow the prescribed guidelines. Perfumers cannot create and surrender to the impulse of the soul, because they create a product that will one hundred percent correspond to the wishes of the client.

Selective - a fundamentally new concept of fragrances

Niche perfumery is the creation of individuals - perfumers who do not live up to anyone's expectations. Perfumery is different not in price (often niche perfumery can cost as much as luxury novelties cost), but in “sound” and ingredients. For selective perfumery, exclusively high-quality raw materials are used, which allow the smell to unfold on the skin with an unexpectedly bright fireworks - this is what determines the value of the product. In addition, some of the pieces use expensive packaging elements such as gold, special types of wood or gems... But extraordinary packaging is rather an exception. In the first place in the selection is aroma - it is he who is the determining factor in niche perfumery. The most famous brands among selectors are Penhaligon's, Jo Malone, Montale, Creed, Le Labo, M. Micallef, Amouage, Parfums de Rosine, Byredo, Fragonard, Frederic Malle, Kilian, Serge Lutens.

On the history of the development of perfumery in the twentieth century

We have already figured out what “niche perfumery” means, but why did such a branch in the “fragrance business” arise?

To do this, let's go back a little to the past. Just a hundred years ago, perfumery was the lot of the elite, or rather the powerful and wealthy people. But with the development of industrial production, when goods became cheaper and more accessible, perfumery also fell noticeably. In the 50-60s, it became available to almost everyone, and a little later, by the 90s, manufacturers began to think about how to convince the buyer to buy their products. After all, the supply far exceeded demand, and therefore perfumers began to work in the name of the consumer.

Now perfume houses have ceased to create just something, and have begun to make a product that satisfies the wishes of people. Genuine creators who do not want to work within narrow limits have gone underground under the name of “selective perfumery”.

What makes niche perfumery different

So, what are the specialties in such an area of fragrances as niche perfumery? Stores in Moscow are ready to offer you a selector that has the following characteristics: a special aroma, the best raw materials, an almost complete absence of advertising, unusual places of sale.

Fragrance is the first and most important difference in niche perfumery. If the goal of luxury perfumery and the mass market is to appease the consumer and create the most attractive "candy", then the creators of the selective do not even think about it. Niche perfumery can have a completely unimaginable "look", both attractive and repulsive. Imagine notes of wet tobacco, rubber, molasses, oud or gayak, musk - all of these are niche perfumes. Reviews on it are very different, because the perfume can confuse, cause bewilderment, fall in love with or push away, but what is absolutely certain - no one remains indifferent.

Selective ingredients

If the manufacturers of "ordinary" perfumery are chasing a product cheaper, choosing the cheapest synthetic components, then niche perfumers do not think about it at all. Did you know that, as with good wine, there are specificities for each "ingredient" of a good perfume, including the place and time of collection. For example, the most "correct" flowers are harvested in northern Africa or Morocco. If a perfumer needs a gayak tree concentrate, he will go to Indonesia for it. It is the raw material that largely determines the price of the future perfume. Some types of selectivity appear in a very limited amount due to the unavailability of one or another component.

Dress for the king, or about packing

Do you want rhinestones and glitter? Then especially for you - luxury perfumery and mass market. Especially for gullible buyers in magazines, special issues are made, telling about how the bottle of perfume was created. Funny, isn't it? The bottle is on the shelf, while the perfume is what you need!

As for the selective, the perfumers work more on the content, rather than on appearance... Most often, the packaging of niche fragrances looks inconspicuous and unremarkable, although there are exceptions. An example is Martina Micallef, whose bottles are hand-painted and decorated with stones. Of course, it is none other than the buyer who pays for the packaging.

Supply volumes

How many bubbles do you think are produced with a new scent like Nina Ricci? Several tens of thousands, because the goods need to be delivered to all cosmetics stores and hypermarkets! As for the selectivity, the production of products is directly related to the number of components. If you need raw materials to create a fragrance that can be obtained in a limited amount, then the manufacturer can literally release a few bubbles. Therefore, there is literally a queue for some types of perfume.

Points of sale

If you are interested in selectivity and rush to a large hypermarket or cosmetics store to buy a fragrance, you will be disappointed. Niche perfumery in Rive Gauche is not for sale, but you can find it in special selective boutiques. What are these places of sale?

In essence, boutiques with such fragrances are a kind of "caste" among the distribution points of cosmetics. There are not many people in them, and you certainly will not see queues. In addition, such shops do not pamper customers with promotions and sales. The maximum that a regular customer can count on is that he can get something from the bath collection of the same brand as a gift for the chosen scent. As a rule, the boutique owner knows his regular customers personally and a relationship of trust develops between them.

Do not be afraid to go to such a shop! If you want to touch the world of niche perfumery, then this is where you can get acquainted with the fragrances. However, you should not pretend that you are a seasoned buyer, as the seller will immediately see you through! Better to admit that you only want to know something about niche perfumery.

And what about the price, how much can a selective perfumery cost in Moscow? The price for this type of fragrance can hardly be lower than 2000 rubles per 20 ml. But you must admit that this is not so much money - just for the same amount you can buy, for example, 100 ml of a popular and advertised perfume. What to choose is up to you.

Another fundamental difference

It is niche and differs from luxury and mainstream fragrances also in that it is practically not advertised. This is the case. By purchasing a novelty or popular fragrance that does not leave the glossy pages, you pay for this: about 60% for advertising (participation of models and movie stars, a PR campaign, samples in magazines and in stores), 30% for packaging and payment for work the creators of the smell, and only 10% comes from raw materials.

The situation with niche fragrances is completely different, one might say, diametrically opposite. Selective is practically not advertised, because it is not designed for a mass consumer, and you pay not for advertising or for a box, but for a truly unique composition.

How to choose a niche perfumery for yourself

Niche perfumery in Rive Gauche is not sold, and small boutiques with selective samples for all types of perfume will not be available. But since such perfumery is completely unusual and it is impossible to buy for oneself without first trying it, then what to do? There are castings especially for this. Selective perfumery, due to its high cost, is not available to everyone, and if you have the opportunity to purchase the coveted bottle, then you need to know what you are buying, right?

You can buy casts in online stores and in small boutiques. Selective perfumery is simply poured into special small containers (atomizers), 2-5 ml in volume. With so much of the precious liquid, you can "test" the scent and determine whether you like the perfume or not.

Is it worth spending money on selective

As we have already found out, niche perfumery is not a cheap pleasure. A very reasonable question arises as to whether it is worth spending money on such an exquisite thing as selective. In addition, the smells are very peculiar, and not everyone will like niche perfumes. Simpler brands, such as the mass market or the more expensive luxury, are well recognized and liked by absolutely everyone.

Well, there is no definite answer to this question. An addiction to a particular smell speaks of a person's taste and culture. It’s not even a matter of money here, since niche perfumery will not cost much more than a luxury one. However, some people at a certain point in their lives simply start to turn back from popular smells, and they want something more individual.

Learn all about selective fragrances

Niche perfumery: what is it? © facebook.com

Surely you have already met this mysterious phrase somewhere "niche perfumery". These fragrances are not so popular in our country, but nevertheless we hear about them more and more often. What is niche (selective) perfumery? Let's figure it out together!

What is niche perfumery?

The entire perfumery market in the world can be roughly divided into three categories:

Massmarket- these are aromas that do not differ in complexity, selection of raw materials, subtlety of notes, but they have another advantage - availability. Their habitat is supermarket shelves, market pavilions, underground passages.
The market for luxury fragrances- these are the spirits of famous fashion houses, jewelers, perfume companies. This is the perfume that we are most often used to buying and seeing on the shelves of chain stores, boutiques and duty-free shops. These products follow 100% fashion trends and are always liked by people.

Niche (selective) perfumery: what is it? © facebook.com

Such love is not accidental, because these perfumes are created in order to please us and suit us universally. Luxe perfumery is always grandiose shows, large-scale advertising campaigns with the participation of Hollywood stars of the first magnitude, top models and outstanding athletes.

Niche perfumery(from the French la niche - niche, cell) is rather the art of creating a fragrance, the religion of perfume notes and the philosophy of opening a perfume on human skin. These are very exclusive, rare fragrances.

For such fragrances, perfumers rely on their imagination and the best natural raw materials, and do not work within the framework of an order received by them, which strictly regulates the cost of one liter. And these fragrances are not advertised, they are not intended for a large audience. Their value lies in exclusivity, individuality and naturalness.

Selective perfumery: find out what it is! © facebook.com

What makes niche perfumery different?

Natural raw materials

To create such aromas, perfumers use only natural raw materials of the highest quality. When choosing a material, even the year of the crop and the place of growth play a role. For example, they try to buy the orange tree flower in the Maghreb countries (northern Africa, Tunisia, Morocco, Algeria), and the essence of the gayak tree - in Indonesia.

Such perfumes are produced in a very narrow "circulation" and are sold in small special boutiques, extremely rarely in large stores. For some spirits, sometimes you even need to queue up so that they can be created.

The cost price of these fragrances is very high; in addition, a bottle of perfume can be very expensive due to the precious design. These perfumes can cost from 1000 UAH and up to several thousand dollars.

The most popular niche perfume brands are L "Artisan Parfumeur, Montale, AnnickGoutal, E. Coudray, Frederic Malle, Parfums de Rosine, Serge Lutens, Ajmal, Amouage, Jo Malone, Diptyque, Miller Harris.

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Selective (or niche) perfumery presented by an exclusive small perfume. Companies that produce selective perfumery products do not seek to gain popularity and do not rely on massive purchases. On the contrary, niche perfumery products are made individually for everyone. Despite the extraordinary combination of smells, selective perfumery always has its own buyer.

Most often, among the buyers of exclusive perfumes, there are creative people with in an original way life and thinking outside the box - writers, musicians, actors, artists, journalists. In general, the buyer of selective perfumes is a person, first of all, who wants to be different from everyone else, avoiding norms and any framework. Selective perfume are in no way associated with fashion, unlike branded perfumery products. So fashionistas and women of fashion are likely to prefer a newfangled fragrance from a world famous cosmetic brand to selective.

If you feel like smelling differently, try selective scents. Niche perfumery is so unique and inimitable that it surpasses all the most daring human expectations. Among the selective aromas are those that are unlikely to ever be found in another, standard and predictable perfumery - the smells of laundry, dry cleaning, freshly cut grass, only baked chocolate croissant, gourmet tobacco, soda, etc.

As for the price of selective perfumery products, it can be both fabulous (about 40 thousand rubles) and relatively inexpensive (about 2 thousand rubles).

Features of selective perfumery:

1. Batches of niche perfumes are so limited that some perfumes are produced in only one single copy.

2. Selective perfumery is almost impossible to counterfeit, again in view of the limited edition.

3. In exclusive perfumes, the rarest and very expensive ingredients are often used.

4. Bottles in which niche perfumery products are sold can be either of the same type and standard, or unique, hand-painted, signed by the author or decorated with Swarovski stones.

5. Often selective perfumes manufactured in individually under the order.

Types of selective perfumery:

1. Outrageous perfume.

Among the shocking original flavors include the smells of rain-hitting dust, laundry detergent, freshly paved asphalt, etc.

2. Vintage perfume.

The difference between the aromas of vintage perfumes is the old perfume recipes. For example, perfumes that were released many years ago or the century before last.

3. Personalized perfume.

These selective fragrances are named after the creator of the perfume or the customer. More often than not, signature perfumes are an improved version of pre-existing fragrances.

In the material :

The art of being original: what is a niche perfume?

The concept of niche perfumery comes from the French “La niche” - literally a niche, a cell; figuratively - a certain segment that is exclusively occupied by someone or something. In the Russian language (as far as I understand), this concept (in its figurative representation) entered a long time and firmly. “He found his niche in art”, “the product took its own niche in the market”, etc. - it's all about our topic.

Niche perfumes are compositions created according to the exclusive formulas of the authors. This is a complete author's creativity, not limited by the customer's framework, prevailing trends, ingredients used, price limits, etc.

Is a niche exclusive? Undoubtedly! Will you be original in it? Undoubtedly! Is it worth spending a lot of money on such fragrances? Why not, if you have the means and the desire? Are you guaranteed to enjoy niche scent? No, no, and no more a hundred thousand times! Belonging to a group does not mean unequivocal sympathy. Everything is as always - try it! But we'll talk about this below.

Niche fragrances are creative freedom! This is one of the highest manifestations of the art of perfumery. This is "I see it this way" in his olfactory performance. But do you like all the pictures of the world? Isn't there a difference between classical music and the underground? Are ballet and the actionist manifestations of modernity the same thing? It's the same with niche perfumery.

Exclusive mono fragrances, for example, dedicated exclusively to rose or peony, or another component - this could be a niche. But “black caviar, burnt in the wheel of a new car against the background of rotten seaweed” - can also refer to this group.

What belongs to a niche?

Classifying niche fragrances is a thankless task because of their versatility. But still, the main characteristics that distinguish this group from others are distinguished. Let's look at them and see if everything here is true:

Mass advertising campaigns are not officially carried out. Brands are believed to spend money on quality ingredients rather than advertising. All this is not entirely true. Indeed, you usually won't see pop stars advertising these fragrances. However, magazine articles, interviews with perfumers and similar materials are often published along with new products. Is this not an advertisement?
These brands have a full-time perfumer... Yes, in most cases it is. Moreover, perfumers are often the founders of niche brands. Nothing prevents a master from working on mass compositions for many years, and then (sometimes in parallel) to open his own niche line. A prime example is from Jacques Cavallier.

Only the presence of a full-time perfumer cannot be an indicator of a niche - a large number of luxury brands also have full-time perfumers. For example, François Demachy y or Thierry Wasser y.

Niche fragrances are not sold in large department stores, but only in exclusive boutiques... The same is not all unambiguous. Such brands have their own (often mono-brand) stores (by the way, it is very interesting in them - there are consultants, as a rule, very adequate and they know their products inside and out!), But what would you like to do with brands that produce luxury, but present and separate niche collections? Do you think they will open separate stores for such lines? Hardly!

It turns out that all three indicators are quite relative. Like everyone else in this world. To confuse you even more, I'll tell you that some brands manage to find their niche inside another niche :-)

Niche and Selective: Synonyms or Separate Groups?

You've probably noticed that I have never used the term "selective" or "selective perfumery" until now, and many call the niche that way. I am getting better. Selective and niche perfumery are synonymous! But, as elsewhere, there are some “smart people” who are ready to make money on terms and confuse you and me.

The essence of the problem is that manufacturers of mass fragrances (the same term, but more on that another time) often use the word “Selective” for marketing purposes (in the sense: refined, selective, original). So they wanted to call their work that way, and nothing can stop them.

In order not to get confused, one must understand: when the phrase “Selective perfumery” is used in reference books or articles, in most cases we are talking about niche fragrances. However, the word “Selective” on the product packaging may mean absolutely nothing.

Let's remember the main segments of perfumery (in this context):

Group	Characteristic	Note
Mass market	The most inexpensive, widespread, often sold through distributors.	For example, Avon or Oriflame.
Luxury	High-quality, often expensive products from well-known fashionable or exclusive perfume houses.	Sometimes this segment is called “branded”, meaning that it is produced by famous brands. This, for example, Dior, and many others. The main confusion: this category is sometimes called "mass". From a production point of view, this is true, but it should not be confused with the previous group.
Niche	What this article is all about ;-)	Let me remind you that the segment is sometimes called “selective”, but the word “Selective” can also be present on representatives of other groups. Who can be categorized as a niche unequivocally:, etc.

Please note that in principle I am not talking about the quality of goods in these segments. Do not swear right away, but in my opinion, although it is important, it is secondary. Primary are your perceptions and those of your loved ones.

In one of the materials we have already dealt with the so-called. "" When the fragrance should:

Like you.
Do not irritate loved ones.
Do not harm colleagues.

Problems begin when this “self-proclaimed elite” begins to see a “gray mass” around, squeezing itself out of the category of “ordinary people”. The next step, as a rule, is a dismissive attitude towards others. And if their work turns out to be of no use to anyone, then the time of "unrecognized geniuses" and "cattle" comes at all.

All of these are quite philosophical things, and do not directly relate to niche perfumery (or rather, they are far from only related to it). But we need to pay attention to this for several reasons:

If such a "elite" is wrapped up in his own genius in the end, then it is worth treating his creations with a certain skepticism. This does not mean that they are bad - on the contrary, masterpieces of art are often created by outspoken psychos - this means that you need to be more careful, and the test should be carried out more thoroughly.
Whatever the thirst for creativity, whatever mental impulses were leading the creators, to eat, pardon the banality, they want to eat too. This means that the commercial component must be present. That is why their stories about (I exaggerate) “universes created in your imagination by the scent I created yesterday, under the moonlight and to the sound of a violin, which permeates the composition through and through” should not always be believed. Let the "smell of moonlight and violin music" be smelled by themselves, and you have your own nose - it will tell you everything about the scent.
Quite often, niche fragrances are dedicated to any locality: a resort, a city, a region. This is the author's vision. It is quite normal to want to reproduce the smells associated with a favorite place. Another thing is that your and the author's olfactory opinion on the same geographic object may differ. For example, a "scent with the smells of New York" (for some reason this city is the most popular to "smell") can cause the expectation of the smells of Soho, but it will turn out to be Harlem.

Now the main thing is to let these "elites" continue to consider themselves as such, if it flatters their pride. Be it a genius perfumer, a talented designer or an ordinary consultant - let them be "bohemian"!

But everything they do, create, sell is for you! They are nothing without you... You are the main link in this chain. Your likes and dislikes should determine what you will smell with today, and not the opinions and talents of the "elite". The main thing is you, and the entire elite is needed only to serve your interests. They are your personal perfumers, your servants, if you will. Know this, just never tell "bohemians" ;-)