Standard thimble sizes. Hand tools and accessories

To tools for manual work include hand needles, thimble, scissors, measuring tape; for accessories - an edged ring, a peg, a mannequin, patterns, tailor's chalk, etc.

In the process of making clothes, tools and devices are selected taking into account the characteristics of the fabric to be processed and the type of work performed, which is important for the correct organization of labor, high quality work and increasing labor productivity.

Hand needles depending on the length and diameter, they are subdivided according to numbers from No. 1 (the thinnest) to No. 12 (the thickest). The characteristics of the needles are given in table. 2.

table 2 Characteristics of needles by numbers(GOST 1170 - 54)

Needle number	Diameter, mm	Length, mm	Application for processing fabrics
1	0,6	35	Cotton and silk
2	0,7	30	Lightweight cotton, silk and woolen
3	0,7	40	Lightweight cotton, silk and woolen
4	0,8	30	Medium thickness, light combed cotton clothes, etc.
5	0,8	40
6	0,9	35
7	0,9	45
8	1,0	40	Coat group
9	1,0	50
10	1,2	50
11	1,6	75	Heavy tissue
12	1,8	80	Heavy tissue

When making outerwear the most widely used needles are No. 4 - 10.

The needle should be sharp, resilient, non-brittle, well-polished, without burrs in the eyelet, which cause loosening and breakage of threads.

Thimble needed to push the needle into the fabric; put it on middle finger right hand... Thimbles are of two types: without a bottom and with a bottom.

A thimble with a bottom (deaf) is used in the manufacture of dresses and linen. The thimble should have sharp indentations for the needle stop.

It is recommended to use a thimble without a bottom when making outerwear, since a thimble with a bottom causes sweating and quick finger fatigue. The thimble is picked up on the finger so that one fourth of the nail remains open. When working, the needle is pushed with the side of the thimble.

Scissors are used in various sizes and are distinguished by numbers from No. 1 (largest) to No. 8 (smallest).

Scissors number	Recommended types of work
1 - 2	Cutting the fabrics of the coat group (cloth, drape, etc.), basic work
2 - 3	Cutting of fabrics of the costume group (tights, cheviot, etc.), basic work
4	Cutting cotton and silk fabrics
4 - 5	Trimming small parts from different fabrics
5 - 6	Making cuts when processing products
7 - 8	Trimming the ends of the threads

The scissors should be well sharpened and the ends should close completely without a harsh sound. With the modern organization of labor in garment factories, scissors are almost never used when cutting fabrics, since this process is mechanized.

If, when processing garment parts, great physical efforts are required to trim (trim) several layers of fabrics, the scissors are replaced with scissors (ОМ-1, ОМ-2, ОМ-З), the use of which facilitates labor, increases labor productivity and production culture.

Tape measure serves to take measurements from the figure, measure parts and the width of the seams when checking the quality of work.

Trim ring used for trimming threads taken from a spool and after the end of sewing. A ring with a soldered sickle-shaped plate is put on the index finger of the left hand. The use of a trim ring instead of scissors helps to save time and increase the productivity of the worker.

Peg used to remove threads from stitches temporarily connecting parts, align corners, to punch holes on parts, etc. Pegs can be made of hard wood (oak, maple, birch). The most practical and hygienic pegs are made of metal and plastic.

Dummy imitates a human figure and is used to check the correct connection of parts in the process of manufacturing a product. On the dummy, they check the correctness of sewing of the side and shoulder cuts, stitching the sleeves into the armholes, the lower collar into the neckline, etc. When finishing the dummy, put a product on the dummy and mark the location of the buttons. When sorting finished products on a dummy, they check the correct fit of the product on the figure.

The mannequin is made from thick cardboard and covered with cotton fabric. The size of the mannequin is determined in the same way as the size of the figure, that is, half the size of the chest girth. Products of all heights (lengths) are checked on a mannequin of the same size.

Patterns (parts of the product, cut out of cardboard or thick paper), according to their purpose, are subdivided into standard templates, main (working) and auxiliary (auxiliary).

Patterns - standards are used for making and checking basic patterns. The main (working) patterns are used to draw contours and control notches when cutting fabrics and checking the quality of cut parts of the cut. Auxiliary (auxiliary) patterns are used in sewing workshops for shading on the details of clothing the locations of pockets, darts, folds, etc. With a stable assortment of manufactured products, auxiliary patterns and patterns for cutting parts on tape machines are edged around the edges with a special profile wire, which increases the term service of patterns in production and more accurate cutting of parts is achieved.

When unifying the processing of individual parts of clothing, it is advisable to make patterns from harder materials than cardboard, for example, metal, plastic. The service life of such patterns is increased.

In mass production, metal templates are used when performing wet-heat processing operations: bending the edges of patch pockets, ironing valves and straps in men's shirts, lining lines for attaching valves, etc. Templates are used when processing garment knots on machines using glue joints of parts.

Use tile chalk ... The production uses specially prepared chalk in the form of flat tiles of different colors. To obtain fine, clear chalk lines, the chalk should be sharpened periodically so that the thickness of the lines drawn does not exceed 0.1 cm.

When performing manual work, the following technical conditions must be observed.

1. Lines on fabrics with synthetic fiber carried out with soap (baby, egg).

2. Temporary stitches are made with light cotton threads or cotton twisted yarn of the appropriate numbers.

3. The length of the hand stitches in the line is selected depending on the type of fabric and the purpose of the stitch ().

4. Needle numbers are selected in accordance with the thickness of the processed fabric and the nature of the work performed.

5. Fasten the ends of temporary stitches with 1 - 2 reverse stitches.

6. Temporary stitches are removed with a peg.

Let's talk about the tools that are used in sewing work. Let's start by defining what a tool is and what a device is.

Tools- objects that perform this or that work (they do the main work).

Gadgets- items that help (facilitate) the performance of work with tools.

Hand tools include scissors, hand sewing needles, tape measure, thimble.

The devices include patterns, pins, chalk, a mannequin, a ring with a knife, a peg, a ripper, etc.

There are a lot of sewing tools and devices. More and more are constantly appearing. This article does not cover all the tools that exist.

You need to be able to choose the right tools for the job. At the same time, they must be of high quality, since the quality and speed of the work performed largely depends on this. And most importantly, when working with good tools, you get the most pleasure and good mood from work. When choosing tools, you need to take into account the properties of the fabric from which the product is made, and also take into account the type of work performed.

Hand needles.

The needles have a range of dimensional features... They differ in the thickness of the needle (in its diameter), in its length, they are also distinguished in the size of the ear. The needles are numbered from # 1 (thin) to # 12 (thick), which characterizes the needle in terms of thickness and length. The odd-numbered needle is longer than the even-numbered needle.

Also, when choosing a needle, it is necessary to pay attention to its condition. The needle should be sharp, firm and not brittle. It should also be well polished and free from burrs. The eye of the needle must be of sufficient size. In addition, the needle should not be rusty.

Thimbles.

The purpose of the thimble is to prevent the finger from being pricked when pushing the needle through the fabric. The thimble is put on the middle finger of the right hand.

Let's pay attention to the structure of the thimble. The thimble is tapered appearance... On the surface of the thimble, you can observe small depressions that are staggered. These indentations are designed to prevent the needle from sliding over the surface of the thimble. Thimbles can be found with or without a bottom. Usually, for manual work in light clothing, a thimble with a bottom is used, and for outerwear without a bottom.

Thimbles are different sizes and you need to choose such a size so that the thimble fits snugly around the middle finger of your right hand.

Scissors.

Scissors are used not only for cutting fabrics, but also for trimming various parts, as well as for all kinds of manual operations.

Depending on the purpose, scissors have different sizes and configurations of handles and blades. Scissors are numbered from # 1 (the largest for coat fabrics) to # 8 (the smallest for trimming the ends of the threads), depending on their size and purpose.

Tape measure.

A centimeter tape is usually a soft rubberized tape with centimeter and millimeter divisions applied to it. Such a tape is used to take measurements from the human figure, and also with the help of it, the details of the product are often measured during the sewing process.

For accurate measurements, it is better to use the same centimeter tape. The measuring tape is pulled out during operation, so it must be checked periodically.

It will be interesting for you to see:

Comfortable Leather Thimble, by Samantha Brenneman:

I have been sewing since childhood, but I could never bring myself to use a traditional metal thimble. For years I avoided using it and resigned myself to the inconvenience of needle pricks.

Recently I was sewing a baby envelope that was almost completely hand-quilted. By pushing a small, thin needle through the envelope fabric and cotton batting to make all these little stitches, I am finally convinced of how important such a small tool can be. I pushed my way through my project using a standard metal thimble but never got used to it. So, I started looking for a thimble that would not only fit better in size, but was also convenient for prolonged use with prolonged needlework.

I have tried several types of leather thimbles like those often used by quilters (mostly made of leather and fabric with a small metal plate at the tip). None of them fit completely: one fell apart; another stretched out during use and leaked; another one was made from patent leather too slippery to hold the needle and finally, the latter was made of such thick leather that I even needed a metal plate, but I could not feel through it what I was doing when I sew with it.

I even tried using old glove fingers with a small piece of felt tucked in to reinforce the fit. These makeshift thimbles fit better than most, but they wore out too quickly.

The right solution

In a rush of inspiration (or disappointment), I decided to design my own perfect leather thimble that would match all the features I liked: softness; elasticity of the skin for easier grip of the needle; a long "tail" above the fingertip to find a comfortable position and easily remove and put on the thimble; and a hard tip, beveled like a fingertip, to push the needle through the fabric while protecting the finger.

If you are faced with the same dilemma as me, or you just want a complete set of really easy-to-use thimbles, try my technique to make them yourself. You can make multiple thimbles in minutes. And it's not such a bad idea, because you can take it with you wherever you sew. Plus, you always have a reserve in case one of them gets lost or worn out.

Start with a basic tubular-tailed pattern. She has good size for my rather small finger, but you can easily enlarge or shrink it by cutting wider or at the same along the seam line (see below "How to make a thimble for your size").

The wide V-shaped curve at the end provides a bevel at the end of the thimble. This beveled design ensures that the needle hits the tip every time and does not slip.

Thimble design

Most of my thimbles are made from soft pieces of pigskin that I have collected (3 square inches is usually more than enough, 1 inch = 2.54 cm). I've also always used suede or old gloves - great for gloves that have lost their pair but are too shabby to throw away.

Soft skin very flexible and comfortable, but it has a tendency to stretch, so I make my thimbles a little tight initially. To compensate for this stretch in the future, on each thimble I make a small "strap" just after the first knuckle of the finger. The strap can be made from a small strip of leather or a piece of elastic cord, and the fit should be fairly snug because it keeps the thimble on your finger at a comfortable angle even when the skin is stretched.

The tip itself is a kind of sandwich of two layers of leather with a small circle of hard plastic between them. A dime (roughly 10-50 kopeck coin) is the most suitable template for carving these leather circles. I cut the plastic mug out of the packaging or milk bags (flat plastic lids are also handy), re-circle the dime, and then trim off the extra 1/8 inch (about 3 mm) inside the rimmed mug around the edge. Test the plastic in practice to make sure the eye of the needle does not pierce it.

Most easy way to design such a thimble - use both glue (Sobo or other white fabric glue) and stitching. A thin bead of glue is applied along the edges of the seam, acting as a bartack, but stitching is necessary to keep the pieces together. I sew the long tube on a sewing machine (a regular needle does a great job), but find it easier to sew the tip to the thimble tube by hand using a leather needle and double or waxed thread.

After sewing the thimble, fill the tail section with a piece of soft cotton or leather, gluing them all together. This will strengthen the tail of the thimble, which is usually pulled when you take it off and put it on your finger.

Finally, I have a thimble that really protects my finger and is so comfortable that I often forget what it is on my finger. True, true, more than once I left my workshop, forgetting to take it off.

Thimble pattern

Copy the drawing onto a separate sheet and print. size is given in inches (in 1 inch 2.54 cm)

How to make a thimble to fit your size

All you need for this quick project is a few pieces of leather, a piece of hard plastic (cut from a milk carton, for example), some glue, and an arbitrary short piece of elastic cord.

To make a pattern

1. Trace around a full-length seam and refine the fit on the middle finger of your dominant hand by adding or subtracting along the top seam.

2. Use a coin as a template to cut out two leather nib mugs. Trim the edge 1/8 "(3mm) for a plastic circle.

To sew together

1. Glue the top seam together along the edge. Allow to dry, then hand or stitch with 1/6 '' (4mm) seam allowance.

2. Place the plastic tip between the two leather mugs. Glue the leather mugs together around the edges ("sandwich").

3. Glue your round "sandwich" to the tip of the thimble's tail, aligning the mismatched edges. Allow to dry, then hand sew twice in a circle (use a leather needle) with a 1/6 '' (4mm) seam allowance. Sew only layers of leather, not plastic. Strive for uniformity.

4. Place the thimble on your finger. Mark 2 dots 1/4-inch (6 mm) on each side of the seam and just after the first top knuckle of the toe. Remove the thimble and cut small holes at each point.

5. Cut a small 1 "(2.54 cm) × 3/16" (5 mm) strip of leather for the belt. Slip through the holes, pull, overlap, and glue the ends together.

6. An elastic strap can be used as an alternative. Cut 2 additional holes 1/2 inch below the top holes. Slip a 2-inch piece of elastic cord through the holes, pull, overlap, glue the ends together. remove excess cord. Close the cord by attaching a small piece of leather, gluing it on top in the shape of the cord.

7. Glue a piece of soft cotton or leather inside the tail area. Trim off any remaining fabric around the tail edge of the thimble.

Samantha Brenneman makes thimbles and sews in Beuvin, Illinois, USA.

Photo: Sloan Howard, Drawings: Christine Erickson.

Hello, friends!

The new season has arrived! And nothing that it's autumn. After all, autumn can be different - colorful, inspiring.

Usually there are two of them in the kit. They come in different sizes and fit tightly to the phalanges of the fingers.
It is recommended to work with two thimbles at the same time.

They prevent the needles from slipping when sewing, and also protect your fingers from damage. Thanks to the special holes, the fingers breathe. Convenient for patchwork and quilting.

Glue thimbles:

Consists of a pair of stainless steel thimbles and adhesive stickers designed for repeated use. Protects and protects the fingertips from needle pricks
Convenient when working in techniques: patchwork, quilting, sewing

Quilter's thimble:

For reference: Quilter - a person engaged in quilting, an unusual technique that combines several techniques of needlework, such as patchwork, embroidery, applique.

The quilter thimble is adjustable in size and fits all fingers.

Felting thimbles:

For reference: Felting - natural wool felting technique

Thimbles are used to protect the fingers while working with felting needles. The special coating prevents the needles from slipping. Very handy for felting small parts.

Knitting thimbles:

Have yarn guides and great for spreading yarns different colors when creating bright, colorful and interesting patterns.

And these are:

Interesting gadgets, agree!

Do you know?

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The very first thimbles were made from thick leather.

Then they began to be made of copper and bronze. Wealthy people ordered themselves gold or silver thimbles. They were not only an object of labor, but also an ornament with pictures and ornaments.