Stages of production of artificial silk from wood. Bed linen made of natural and artificial silk

The first silk fabrics were very rare and expensive, so only rulers and their family members wore them. In all likelihood, inside the palace they wore white robes, and at ceremonial exits - c. With the expansion of production, silk gradually became available to the court, and then to wider sections of the population.

Gradually, a real silk cult arose in China. Old Chinese texts mention sacrifices to the silkworm god, as well as sacred mulberry groves and the veneration of individual mulberry trees.

Already in the era of the Fighting Kingdoms (475-221 BC), silk and silk products were ubiquitous in China in almost all segments of the population. Mencius (372-289 BC), "The Second Perfect Wise," suggested planting mulberry trees around the perimeter of the "well fields" so that young and old could wear silk clothes.

Silk was widely used in the household. In addition to being used as fabric for clothing and embroidery, strings for musical instruments, bowstrings for bows, fishing lines and even paper were made from it. During the reign of the Han dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD), silk became a kind of universal monetary equivalent: the peasants paid taxes in grain and silk, the government also paid officials in silk.

The value of silk was calculated based on its length and was equated to gold. Silk became, in fact, the currency used in settlements with other countries. The important role of silk in Chinese culture is evidenced by the fact that out of 5 thousand most commonly used about 230 have the key "silk".

The technologies of sericulture, embroidery, and dyeing of fabrics were rapidly improving. This continued until the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

The volume and quality of silk products gradually increased. Brightness of colors, richness and perfection of embroidery were amazing. From the II century. BC. foreign trade was established - the famous Silk Road. A key role in this process was played by Zhang Qian 张 骞 (? -114 BC), a Chinese diplomat and traveler who opened the countries of Central Asia to China and Chinese trade. On caravan routes, some of which existed before, caravans loaded with Chinese goods set off to the West.

However, a number of historical and archaeological facts indicate that in other countries they learned about Chinese silk much earlier. So, in one of the Egyptian villages near Thebes and in the Valley of the Kings, female mummies wrapped in silk fabrics dating back to the 11th century were discovered. BC. This is probably the earliest find.

After the accession of the Tang dynasty (618-907), special weaving workshops were founded, initially producing ceremonial headdresses, and later, multi-colored silk fabrics. The fabrics were dyed with plant dyes: flowers, leaves, bark, plant roots. The main weaving centers were located in the modern provinces of Henan, Hebei, Shandong and Sichuan. The Tang era was a time of intensive silk trade; it was found in the territory of modern Xinjiang, Turfan, Tajikistan and even in the North Caucasus.

The Greeks and Romans called China the "Country of Silk" - Serik. Silk was very popular among the nobility. It was extremely expensive, but, nevertheless, it was eagerly bought. The price could go up to 300 denarii - the salary of a Roman legionary for a whole year! Silk imports were already threatening the very economy of the Roman Empire. In 380 the Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus (c. 330 - after 395) wrote that "The use of silk, which was once limited only to the nobles, has now spread to all classes without distinction, even the lowest.".

The barbarians were also captivated by this amazing material. Goth Alaric, who conquered Rome in 409, demanded, among other things, 4,000 silk tunics.

However, the mystery of silk making remained unsolved for a long time. Many fantastic explanations have been offered. So, Virgil (1st century BC), for example, believed that silk was made of fleece from leaves. The Greek historian Dionysius (1st century BC) believed that silk was made from flowers. It has been suggested that shiny silk threads grow on trees, or that it was created by huge beetles, or that it is made from the fluff of birds. Roman historian of the 4th century Ammianus Marcellinus provided the following explanation: “Silk fabrics are made from soil. Chinese soil is soft as wool. After watering and special processing, it can be used to form silk threads ".

The Chinese zealously guarded the secret of making silk. Anyone who tried to transfer eggs, larvae, silkworm cocoons abroad was executed. Nevertheless, in Korea, and then in Japan, they learned the secret of silk production. It is believed that to Korea around the 2nd century. BC. it was brought by the Chinese themselves, who emigrated there. Silk appeared on the Japanese islands in the 3rd century AD. Then, in the 4th century, silk production was established in India.

There are several legends about how the silk-making technology became known in other countries. I agree with one of them, the Chinese princess was engaged to the prince of Khotan. Her fiancé wished his fiancée to bring along mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae. According to another version, the princess herself wanted to bring them to her new homeland. She hid the seeds and maggots in her lush hair and took them outside of China. It happened around 440. And from there, the secret of silk production spread throughout the world.

According to another semi-legend, semi-history, the secret was divulged by two Nestorian monks. Around 550, they secretly brought silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds to the Byzantine emperor Justinian I (483-565) in their hollow bamboo staves.

Thus, Byzantium became the first country entering the Western world, where its own silkworm breeding appeared. Church and state created their silk workshops, monopolizing production and zealously guarding the secret of its manufacture. In the 6th century, the Persians mastered the art of silk weaving and created their own masterpieces.

Catholic prelates wore rich silk robes and they decorated altars. Gradually, the fashion for silk spread among the nobility. In the VIII-IX centuries, silk began to be produced in Spain, and four centuries later silk was successfully produced by the cities of the Apennine Peninsula, several cities of which gave their names to fabrics. It is believed that Italian silk originates from two thousand skilled craftswomen who were brought to Italy from Constantinople in the 13th century.

Today silk is produced in many countries of the world: in China, Italy, India, Spain, France. But China is still the world's largest exporter of raw silk and silk products.

Silk production technology

For centuries, silk remained a luxury commodity for most countries of the world, for which the last money was given. Silk production is a very long and painstaking process that requires constant attention. Currently, a number of procedures have been automated.

Over the centuries, sericulture has developed and improved, turning into an exact science. But even now, silk production technology is based on old methods.

Silk is obtained from silk moth cocoons. There are many varieties of wild silk moths. But only one of them became the progenitor of the famous Bombyx mori- a blind, wingless moth, from which the best silk is obtained. It is believed that she descended from Bombyx mandarina mori- a wild silk moth that lives on white mulberry trees only in China. In the process of selection, she lost her ability to fly and can only eat, mate, produce offspring and produce silk fibers.

In addition, there is another type of moth in nature - Antheraea mylitta also producing silk fiber, but coarser. The threads obtained from it are called tussa.

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Female Bombyx mori, having hatched from a cocoon, mates with a male. After that, within 4-6 days, she lays up to 500 or more eggs, and soon after that dies. Only healthy eggs are selected for further use. They are sorted and tested for infection. Sick eggs are burned. Silkworm eggs are very small and light - the weight of a hundred hardly reaches 1 gram. They are kept at a temperature of about 18 degrees Celsius, gradually increasing to 25 degrees Celsius.

Around the seventh day, small worms hatch, the size of which does not exceed 2 mm. It is this larval stage of the moth that is called, in fact, the silkworm. Then, for a month, silkworms constantly eat, increasing their weight and size. So, at the age of 4-5 weeks, their length reaches 3 cm or more, and during this time the weight increases thousands of times!

They feed exclusively on mulberry leaves, which are harvested and selected by hand for them, and then crushed. Feeding takes place regularly, day and night. During this time, thousands of feeding worms are contained in special pallets, which are stacked one on top of the other.

The room where the worms are kept is kept constant temperature and humidity. They must be protected from any fluctuations in the external environment, such as loud noises, drafts, strong food odors and even sweat. From thousands of jaws grinding mulberry leaves, there is a constant hum, reminiscent of the sound of heavy rain drumming on the roof. During this time, the worms shed several times, gradually changing their color from gray to pale pink.

Finally, it's time to cocoon. The silkworm begins to worry, shaking its head back and forth. The caterpillars are placed in separate compartments. With the help of two special glands - spinnerets - the worms begin to produce a gelatinous substance that hardens upon contact with air. The substance that silkworms produce has two main components. The first is fibroin, an insoluble protein fiber that accounts for 75-90% of production. The second is sericin, a sticky substance designed to hold cocoon fibers together. In addition to them, there are also fats, salts, wax.

For three to four days, silkworms wind a cocoon around themselves, placing themselves inside it. They become like white fluffy elongated tangles. At this time, cocoons are sorted by color, size, shape, etc.

Then another 8-9 days pass, and the cocoons are ready to unwind. If time is missed, the pupa will turn into a moth and break through the cocoon, damaging the integrity of the filament. Therefore, the chrysalis must first be killed. To do this, it is exposed to heat, after which the cocoon is dipped into hot water to dissolve the sticky substance sericin that holds the threads together. At this point, only a small part of it is removed, about 1%, but this is enough for the thread to be unwound.

After that, they find the end of the thread, pass it through the porcelain peephole and carefully begin to unwind, winding it on the bobbin. Each cocoon produces a thread with an average length of 600 to 900 meters, and individual individuals - up to 1000 meters or more!

Then 5-8 strands are twisted together to get one strand from them. When one of the threads ends, a new one is twisted to it, and thus a very long thread is formed. Sericin promotes adhesion of one strand to another. The resulting product - raw silk, is wound into skeins of yarn. This process is currently automated.

The skeins of raw silk yarn are sorted by color, size and other characteristics. Then the silk threads are twisted again to achieve a uniform structure and density. Different yarns can be twisted at this stage to obtain different fabric textures. Then the threads are passed through special rollers. After that, the yarn goes to the weaving mill.

Here, the yarn is again soaked in warm soapy water. Refining takes place, as a result of which the weight of the yarn is reduced by about 25%. After that, the yarn acquires a creamy white color and can then be dyed and subjected to additional processing processes. Only then can you start making the fabric.

Silk fibers that were not used for spinning, for example, from broken cocoons, torn ends, etc., can also be twisted into threads, like those obtained from cotton or flax. The quality of this silk is lower, it tends to be weak and fuzzy. It can be used, for example, to make a silk blanket.

Interesting statistics: on silk for men's tie requires, on average, 111 cocoons, and silk for sewing women's blouse - 630!

Despite the fact that now there are many artificial fibers - polyester, nylon, etc., none of them can compare in quality with real silk. Silk fabrics warm in cool weather and cool in hot weather, they are pleasant to the touch and pleasant to the eye. Besides, silk thread is more durable than steel thread of equal diameter!

In conclusion - a short poem about the difficulties of silkworm breeding:

养蚕词
Yăng cán cí
Silkworm Feeding Songs

作者：缪嗣寅
Zuòzhě: Miào Sìyín

蚕初生，
Cán chū shēng
[When] the silkworm is born,

采桑陌上提筐行；
Cǎi sāng mò shàng tí kuāng xíng
I collect mulberry leaves, walk along the border with a basket;

蚕欲老，
Cán yù lǎo
[When] the silkworm caterpillar prepares to ripen,

夜半不眠常起早。
Yèbàn bù mián cháng qǐ zǎo
I don't sleep late at night and often get up early.

衣不暇浣发不簪，
Yī bù xiá huàn fà bù zān
I don't have time to wash my clothes and I don't put my hair down,

还恐天阴坏我蚕。
Hái kǒng tiān yīn huài wǒ cán
I'm also afraid the rainy weather will spoil my silkworms.

回头吩咐小儿女，
Huítóu fēnfù xiǎo nǚ’er
Looking back, I teach my little daughter,

蚕欲上山莫言语。
Cán yù shàng shān mò yányŭ
[When] the silkworm caterpillars are about to climb [to highlight the silk], don't you dare talk!

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In ancient times, silk was considered an inaccessible and expensive material. Such fabrics could afford high origins. Silk was worth its weight in gold, it could be paid for like money. In those days, it was not available to every state. His secrets were kept better than an eye - and that is why he was so valuable. Over time, mankind has learned to produce artificial silk.

Artificial silk (viscose) - a mixture of fibers that is obtained by artificial means. For the production of such silk is used (cellulose). This fabric is the first industrially manufactured chemical fiber. The main type of artificial yarn is acetate.

Industrial methods of producing silk:

viscose;

acetate;

Artificial silk should preferably be washed by hand rather than mechanically. You need to dry it by spreading it out or hanging it on the dryer, it is advisable not to hang it on the battery. Artificial silk is easy to iron and does not require an iron.

Natural silk is a noble material. This tissue is a waste product

silkworm secret mulberry caterpillars. Caterpillars, eating mulberry leaves, secrete liquid, which turns into a strong thread. From this thread, the insect weaves its cocoon. When they are collected, they are placed in a special soaking solution. At the last stage, the soaked cocoons are unwound and only after that the natural thread can be used for silk production.

Soft and durable. It does not cause allergies. You can distinguish artificial silk from natural silk by the fact that natural silk is very delicate and pleasant to the touch. If you set fire to several threads from the product, then by the smell you can immediately understand what kind of silk is in front of us. The fact is that artificial silk burns and smells like wool, while natural silk melts and smells like burnt paper.

Silk linen is usually expensive. This is due to the use of original cut, embroidery, decoration elements. When it comes to bed linen, silk linen will be the best choice for those who like a comfortable and pleasant stay. Any bed covered with silk looks rich and elegant. As for women's underwear, silk products have always been in demand and popularity among women. Silk underwear looks beautiful and graceful on a woman. This fabric glides pleasantly over the body, it is soft and weightless, therefore, putting it on yourself, you will not feel absolutely any discomfort.

Silk is made from it. Most of the various fabrics can be obtained from it. They will all have a different texture, strength, etc. Silk fabrics differ from others in lightness, good absorbency, shine. This fabric, in addition to the price, has one more drawback. It does not tolerate sunlight well and lends itself to fading. This applies to natural silk, and artificial, on the contrary, is resistant to ultraviolet light and practically does not fade. Silk is highly resistant to mold and mildew. Also, this wonderful material does not lend itself to decay.

Sections: Technology

The purpose of the lesson: to familiarize students with the production of fabrics from artificial and synthetic fibers and their properties; with brief information about the range of fabrics; to teach to determine the raw material composition of materials and to determine the properties of fabrics made of artificial fibers.

Tools and materials: work box, scraps of fabric.

LESSON PROCESS

I. Organizational moment

II. Cognitive information

You are already familiar with materials made from natural fibers: cotton, linen, silk and wool. For the first time, Robert Hooke in the 17th century expressed the idea of ​​the possibility of obtaining artificial fiber. For the first time, artificial fibers were obtained industrially in the 19th century. In Russia, the first plant for the production of artificial fibers was built in Mytishchi and produced the first products in 1913.
In the production of fabrics from chemical fibers, they are added to natural fibers in various proportions. This makes it possible to produce fabrics with certain properties. So, wool with the addition of viscose fiber acquires greater softness, better drape. Wool with the addition of nylon becomes twice as strong and wrinkles less, etc.
When buying fabrics, you must not only focus on appearance, but also to know the raw material composition, i.e. what this or that material is made of and the rules for caring for it. This will help to keep the unchanged appearance of your favorite thing for a long time.

Textile fibers

Natural fibers are of plant and animal origin.

Chemical textile fibers, depending on the composition of raw materials, are divided into artificial and synthetic ( Annex 1 ).

1. Students in workbooks write down the topic of the lesson and sketch the diagram "Chemical fibers".

Scheme 1

2. Working with the textbook.

Students write down in a workbook the main stages of the production of chemical fibers (§ 12, pp. 47-48).

Chemical fiber production technology

The production process for man-made fibers includes three stages.

1. Obtaining a spinning solution

All chemical fibers, except mineral ones, are obtained from viscous solutions or melts and are called spinning fibers. To obtain viscous solutions for the production of artificial fiber, cellulose pulp is dissolved in alkali, and synthetic pulp is obtained by chemical reactions of various substances.

2. Fiber formation

The viscous solution is forced through tiny holes in the caps called dies. The streams of spinning solution, flowing out of the spinneret, solidify, forming fine filaments. Curing takes place in a wet or dry environment. Further, the threads from one spinneret on spinning machines are combined into one, stretched and wound on a bobbin. The holes in the die can be from 24 to 36 thousand.

Rice. 1. Die.

3. Fiber finishing

The threads are washed, dried, twisted, thermally treated, some are bleached and dyed.
Staple fibers are chemical fibers obtained by cutting or tearing a bundle of longitudinally folded, filaments that have undergone finishing operations into lengths of 40-70 mm, which are called staples.

Properties of chemical fibers and fabrics made of them

Viscose fiber is a pure pulp obtained from spruce wood. It has a glossy or matte finish. The fabric looks like silk, cotton or wool. It is inferior in strength to silk. When wet, the strength decreases. Absorbs moisture well. The fibers burn quickly, with a bright flame with the smell of burnt paper.

Acetate and triacetate fiber.

Unlike viscose, it consists of cellulose acetate obtained from waste wood and cotton. The fabrics look like natural silk. The strength is less than that of viscose and decreases when wet. It absorbs moisture poorly, has great elasticity, burns quickly, curling up into balls that smell like vinegar.

Properties of synthetic fibers

Polyester fibers- polyester, lavsan, diolen, elan, crimplen. Fabrics made of them are soft, flexible, durable, do not wrinkle, fix their shape well, are resistant to light, but absorb moisture poorly.

Polyamide fibers - nylon, nylon, dederon, nylon, perlon are the strongest synthetic fibers.
Fabrics are tough, smooth, durable, abrasion resistant, wrinkle little, absorb moisture poorly and are sensitive to high temperatures.

Polyacrylonitrile fibers- acrylic, nitron, perlan, acrylane, cashmilon - they look like six in appearance. Properties similar to polyester fibers, but sensitive to high temperatures: melts quickly, becoming brown, then burns with a smoky flame, forming a hard ball.

Elastane fiber- lycra, dorlastan - extremely elastic, increase their length by 7 times, returning to their original state. Fabrics are used for sewing tight-fitting clothing.

Comparative characteristics of fabric properties

Tables 6 on page 50 of the textbook are arranged in such a way that the fibers are ranked for each property being studied: in the first place is the fiber with the most pronounced properties.

III. Practical work"Determination of tissue composition and study of their properties"

On one sample of fabrics from natural silk, silk from artificial and synthetic fibers, determine the types of fabric and fill in the table ( Appendix 2 ).

Table 1

Work order

1. Prepare the report form by filling out the table.
2. Examine the appearance of the samples and determine which of them has a sharp surface, and which has a soft luster.
3. Determine the softness of each sample to the touch.
4. Determine the crease of the samples.
5. Remove two strands from one sample and wet one of them. Break the dry thread first and then the wet thread. Determine if the strength of the thread changes when soaked. Do the same with other samples.
6. Summarizing the data obtained, determine from the table ( Appendix 3 a) type of fabric of each sample.

IV. Lesson summary

1. Interviewing students on the following issues:

– What fibers are chemical?
- What is the raw material for the production of artificial and synthetic fibers?
- What fabrics made of chemical fibers do you know?
- Why are man-made fabrics difficult to cut and process?
- What fabric does not require ironing after washing?
- What products can be sewn from fabrics made from artificial and synthetic fibers?
- Why do people need new types of fibers?
- What new fibers did you learn about in the lesson?
- What is the raw material for the production of artificial fibers?
- What is the raw material for the production of synthetic fibers?
- What are the main stages of the production process of chemical fibers?

2. Grading, their argumentation.

V. Homework

1. Complete the assignment in your workbook.

2. Answer what requirements each of the following products should meet, and select the fabric for it that is optimal in terms of raw materials: summer dress; curtains for windows; furniture upholstery; nightwear; ski sweater; swimsuit; umbrella; raincoat.

Bibliography:

1. Technology [Text]: a textbook for students in grade 7 general education. institutions (option for girls) / ed. V.D.Simonenko. - 2nd ed., Rev. - M .: Ventana-Graf, 2006 .-- 192 p .: ill.
2... Krupskaya, Yu. V. Technology [Text]: 7 cl. (option for girls): method. recommend. / Yu. V. Krupskaya; ed. V.D.Simonenko. - M .: Ventana-Graf, 2007 .-- 80 p.
3. Internet resources.

Silk thread is natural material made from fibers obtained from the silkworm cocoon. The domesticated butterfly of the "true silkworm" family was one of the most significant discoveries of its time and a breakthrough in spinning and weaving. This event took place about 3000 years ago BC. The ancestral home of the domesticated representative of the valuable Lepidoptera was the regions of northern China and the south of Primorsky Krai. From the geography of distribution of the silkworm butterfly, it becomes clear that the Chinese were the first to benefit from the "taming" of the wild "representative" of this winged insect.

Few myths

In China, legends are very fond of. According to the well-established legend, everything happened during the reign of the mythical Yellow Emperor. The eldest wife of the legendary ruler Huang Di, Lei-tzu introduced her people to the secrets of breeding caterpillars and twisting threads from the fibers of silkworm cocoons, for which she was nicknamed Si-Lin-Chi - the ruler of silk worms, and later even elevated to the host of the gods, making her a goddess sericulture. In general, the very time of the reign of the yellow emperor is a tangle of legends and myths, and the tendency of the ancient Chinese to attribute all important events to their rulers, and no one knows exactly how it all happened. Nevertheless, until now, in one of the provinces of China - Zhejian, in the middle of spring - on April 5, a holiday fair is held with a visit to the statue of Empress Xi-Ling-Chi and offering her gifts.

According to another, more everyday legend, women, picking fruits from trees, put in baskets along with ordinary and white fruits, harder and, as it turned out, unsuitable for eating. But women did not know this yet and were looking for a way to do " unusual fruit»Suitable for food. Having cooked them, they began to beat the "strange fruits" with sticks for softening, but in the end, instead of pulp, they received many, many thin threads - the white fruits turned out to be silkworm cocoons.

There are many other stories about the origin of the production of silk threads, but they are even more fantastic, and more like fairy tales for children.

Silk history

In addition to legends, there are also historical facts of the beginning of the application of cocoon threads in practice. Archaeological excavations have shown that the secrets of making silk linen were known even during the Neolithic culture.

During numerous excavations in various Chinese provinces, not only written references were found, in the form of hieroglyphs with the symbols of silk, mulberry tree and cocoon, but also the cocoons themselves, and the surviving fragments of silk products.

Until the time of the unification of China into a single state in the third century BC, there were many independent estates on the territory of the Middle Kingdom. By the middle of the first millennium BC, already about six states on the territory of present-day China owned their own production of thread, fabric and products from it.

The united China jealously defended the secret of silk production and caterpillar cultivation, and for good reason - at one time it was the main source of income for both producers and the entire imperial house. The strictest ban was imposed not only on the production of silk, but also on the export of seeds and sprouts of a mulberry tree and the silkworm itself: larvae, caterpillars, cocoons. Any violation of it was followed by the death penalty.

In the second century BC. the Great Silk Road was laid - a caravan road connecting East Asia with the Mediterranean. From the very name of this route, it becomes clear that the main commodity of caravans from Asia was just silk. For millennia, China remained the monopoly producer of this material. But already in 300 AD, Japan took possession of the secret of breeding "silk worms" and the production of threads from cocoons, and after it, in 522, Byzantium (with the help of two "inquisitive" monks) and some of the Arab countries from which, later , during the Crusades, the "silk secret" "leaks" to Europe.

How silk thread is born

Silkworms are grown specially today. There are many breeding varieties that differ not only in the ability to live and reproduce in different conditions, but also in the frequency of reproduction. Some species can produce offspring once a year, others twice, and still others can produce several offspring within one year.

Butterfly (silkworm moth)

Domesticated representatives are kept in special farms, where the process begins with mating, after which the female moth lays eggs, from which the worst are discarded. During the mating season, opposite-sex moths are placed in special bags, and at the end of the mating season, the female lays eggs for several days. Silkworms are fertile enough and can lay 300 to 600 eggs at a time.
The butterfly itself is quite large in size. An adult can reach a length of up to 6 centimeters with the same wingspan. Despite such impressive wings, domesticated moths are unable to fly. Their lifespan is only 12 days. Another interesting fact: the butterfly is not able to feed and throughout its moth life it is in a state of hunger due to the underdevelopment of the mouth and digestive organs.

Larvae and caterpillars

In order for the larvae to appear from the eggs, they are kept for 8-10 days at a certain air humidity and temperature - 24-25 ° C. After hatching shaggy, 3 mm larvae, they are transferred to another, well-ventilated room, in special trays, where they begin to intensively feed on fresh mulberry leaves. Within one month, the larva will molt 4 times and will eventually develop into a large caterpillar (up to 8 cm in length and up to 1 cm in diameter) with a light pearl color and large jaws on a large head.
The most important organ of the caterpillar, which is why it is grown, is under the lip. It looks like a tubercle, from which a special liquid is released, which, when solidified, turns into a thin and strong thread - in the future, after certain manipulations, it turns into silk. The tubercle is the place where two silk-secreting glands converge, the fibroin thread secreted by them is glued together in this place with the help of sericin (natural glue of a caterpillar).

Pupation process (cocoon formation)

After the fourth molt and transformation from a larva into a caterpillar, the silkworm becomes less voracious. Gradually, the silk-secreting glands are completely filled, and the caterpillar begins, literally oozes with it, continuously leaving, as it moves, a frozen secretion (fibroin). In this case, a noticeable change in its color also occurs - it becomes translucent. What is happening indicates that the "silkworm" is entering the pupation phase. After that, it is transferred to a tray with small cocoon pegs, on which the silkworm settles down and begins to twist its cocoon, with a quick movement of the head, releasing threads up to 3 cm. Cocoons, depending on the type of silkworm, can have different shape: round, elongated, oval. Their sizes vary from 1 to 6 cm. The color of the cocoon can be white, golden, and sometimes acquire a lilac color. The length of the thread used to create the cocoon can be from 800 m to 1500 m, the thickness is 0.011-0.012 mm (for example: a human hair has a diameter equal to 0.04-0.12 mm).

Interesting fact: male cocoons have a denser structure and are of better quality.

Forming a silk thread from a cocoon

After many cocoons have appeared on the trays, they are collected and heat treated, thereby killing the caterpillar inside to prevent the butterfly from hatching. During this process, sorting and rejection is also carried out. The cocoons remaining after sorting are subjected to softening and tousling, as well as the primary removal of impurities, by boiling them for several hours in a boiling soap solution or steaming with steam. Following boiling or steaming, the cocoons are left to soak for a while. During the above, necessary procedures, sericin (sticky substance) is washed out and impurities are removed, after which a multi-stage process of filament formation begins.

Silk cocoon fiber, at the initial stage of processing, consists of many elements, including: fibroin (protein) - up to 75% of the total weight, sericin (viscous silk, protein glue) - up to 23%, as well as wax, minerals and some from fats. In addition to the main ones (fibroin and sericin), there are about 18 more components.

Then, with the help of a brush, the ends of the fiber are found and, depending on what the thickness of the silk thread should be in the future, one or another number of cocoons are left. On average, it takes about 5000 silkworm cocoons and 36 hours of winding to form one kilogram of fabric. For clarity of the described process, we advise you to watch the following video, which shows a non-industrial, artisanal method of production:

Preparatory work before bleaching and dyeing the thread

As a rule, before dyeing or bleaching natural silk, it is preliminarily subjected to heat treatment in a special solution that removes residual sericin. The ingredients for a one liter solution can be:

• 40% oleic soap - 3.6 g;
• soda ash - 0.25 g

Threads are dipped into the prepared solution and boiled at a temperature of 95 ° C for half an hour, followed by thorough washing in order to wash out the remaining components, for subsequent uniform coloring. The composition of the flushing fluid per liter of water:

• sodium hexametaphosphate - 0.5 g;
• ammonia - 0.5 ml.

Washing takes place at a temperature of 70 ° C.

After the rinsing is completed, the threads are rinsed in non-hot water. The optimum temperature of the rinsed liquid is 50-55 ° C.

Whitening

To get snow-white silk, it must be bleached. For bleaching, an alkaline solution is used, the main ingredient of which is ordinary hydrogen peroxide. The prepared raw materials are soaked, with periodic stirring, for 9-13 hours in a solution of water and peroxide heated to 70 ° C.

Dyeing

The staining process is no less laborious. The main components in it can act as natural dyes and their chemical counterparts. Before the dyeing itself, the raw materials are pre-etched with a 1% solution, using metal salts. The following are usually used as etching agents:

• potassium alum;
• inkstone;
• sulphate copper;
• chromium potassium alum;
• chrompeak;
• tin dichloride.

Before being immersed in a pickling bath, the raw material is soaked in water. After the end of the cold mordant, which lasts about 24 hours, the threads are also rinsed and dried. Silk is ready to be dyed.

There are many methods of dyeing, some of which are still unknown to the general public, since they are the know-how of one or another master.

For those wishing to practice dyeing silk in the microwave, we recommend watching this video:

Revitalization

To give shine, as well as juiciness of colors, the raw materials are processed with the essence of acetic acid.

Decatting

And in conclusion, silk threads are treated with high pressure steam for several minutes, this process is called decating, its need is due to the removal of structural stress inside the threads themselves.

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Natural fabric. It is obtained from the cocoon of the pupa of the insect, which is also called the "silkworm". Nowadays, there is not only natural, but also artificial silk, as well as materials with the addition of synthetics.

Silk fibers were first produced in China. It was in the Celestial Empire, back in the 5th millennium BC, that a special technology for the manufacture of this wonderful material was discovered. For a long time it was kept in the strictest confidence.

There are a huge number of types of silk fabrics. Their main differences are in the weaving technology, which gives them their unique features and appearance.

Satin is a shiny and dense silk fabric. The surface of the satin is usually smooth, but the material can also be patterned. The satin is distinguished by a characteristic shine, the front side resembles a gloss. This effect is achieved using a special production technology.

The type of weaving of this fabric, like the raw silk itself, was invented in China. Together with the technique of producing material from silkworm cocoons, this knowledge first came to Central Asia, and then to Europe, where the material was widespread.

Gas (gas-illusion, gas-rice, gas-marabou, gas-crystal)

This is a translucent silk fabric, which is achieved by the large space between its threads. The gas is very light and soft. In production different types strip use patterned, smooth and diagonal weaving.

The illusion gas is the thinnest and almost transparent material that resembles a light web. Made from the finest silk yarn. Curtains, light scarves, elements of wedding decorations are made of it.

Gas rice is light, transparent and slightly rough. The texture is achieved through a special rice weave. Hence the name.

Gas-marabou is a rather tough golden material from raw silk, made from tightly twisted threads. It was widespread at the beginning of the 18th century. Used for sewing lush women's dresses.

The crystal gas is distinguished by its bright luster. In its production, multi-colored threads are used, which makes the surface shimmer, exactly gems... In France, chic ball gowns were sewn from it.

Crepe

The name of the material is translated from French as "wavy", "rough". In the production of crepe, the threads are twisted left and right, alternating in a certain way.

This fabric has an uneven surface. The texture is somewhat similar to sand.

Crepe drapes perfectly, falls in beautiful waves, does not wrinkle. Things made from it are worn for a very long time.

In addition, silk crepe can be cotton, semi-woolen, synthetic. Now it is used mainly for women's dresses.

Thin translucent lightweight fabric made of. It comes in matte and glossy. Ornamental patterns are embroidered on organza, original designs are applied using printing. It is often used to make costumes for oriental dance and curtains.

Silk-Satin

Satin comes from the word "zaytuni" - the Arabic name for the Quanzhou harbor in China, the birthplace of this fabric. Silk satin has a smooth, dense surface, which is characterized by a beautiful shine. Bed linen is made from it, Men's shirts, lining.

Silk satin is produced from two types of material - 100% cotton satin and pure silk. The weave density of this fabric is 170-220 threads per square meter. cm.

Important! Linen made of silk satin is very strong and durable. It can withstand over 200 washes, does not rub off, and is cheaper than silk. .

A fabric of tightly twisted silk and cotton threads. Synthetic fibers are often used in production. Taffeta is distinguished by its high density and rigidity. Forms brittle folds, which allows you to achieve additional volume and splendor.

Toile is distinguished by high density and delicate shine. This fabric perfectly holds its shape and is used as a lining for sewing dresses and ties.

Chiffon

Very fine airy material made of tightly twisted silk threads. Differs in transparency, lightness and flows beautifully. Perfect for sewing summer blouses and light scarves.

Chesucha (wild silk)

Chesucha is a wild dense silk with an amazing texture. In production, threads of unequal thickness are used, which form such a surface. It is durable, drapes well, but requires delicacy in its care. Scabies are used in sewing curtains and various clothes.

Foulard is most often used as a finishing material. Thin and soft silk fabric, from which shawls, scarves and headscarves are sewn. In the XX century, dresses, curtains and lampshades were also sewn from foulard.

Dense curtain fabric of medium firmness, with a pleasant sheen. This exclusive fabric, almost entirely composed of natural silk. Dupont made in India is especially appreciated. From it they sew wedding and evening dresses, accessories and expensive bedding.

Silk fabric made using crepe weaving. The front surface of the crepe georgette is shiny and rough.

Important! The difference between crepe georgette and other varieties of crepe is the direction of weaving. During production, the warp and weft threads are twisted in different directions. This makes it tight, but light and elastic.

In the era of balls, fashionable women's toilets were sewn from crepe georgette. Now this fabric is not so popular. Draped curtains are made of it, as well as some models of skirts, blouses and scarves.

Type of silk crepe fabric - s rough with crepe twist technology. It has a moderate sheen, dense and thin. Shawls, suits, blouses are sewn from crepe de Chine.

Important! Soft flowing folds and draperies - feature of this material.

Eponage (or pongee) distinguishes between silk and cotton. The material has an uneven spongy surface with a decorative colored pattern in the form of cells, stripes, melange.

Brocade has always been considered the fabric of nobles, royalty and church ministers. This heavy material is made from silk with a complex pattern made with metallic thread. Previously, the pattern was made with threads of gold and silver alloys. This explains the high cost of the material.

Nowadays, patterns on brocade are embroidered not only from hard metal threads. Use threads made of linen, silk or cotton.

Muslin is made from natural silk of increased wrapping. The material is transparent and thin. Used for sewing theatrical costumes and dresses.

Twill(ital. sargia, fr. serge; from lat. sericus - "silk") - the technology of production of twill - weaving threads diagonally. Each subsequent strand offsets the intersection by 2 or more other strands. The twill is produced one-colored or printed. Used as a lining, technical or dress fabric, for sewing workwear.

Excelsior, Excelsior

Silk fabric of plain weave with a pronounced luster, thin and transparent. Untwisted thread is used in production. Excelsior drapes well. The fabric is quite beautiful. It is used by designers who work with batik, as well as create silk flowers and decorative elements.

Charmeuse is very similar to atlas. Both have a smooth, glossy finish. The difference can be determined by feeling the material: charmeuse is thinner and softer than satin.

Silk cambric contains approximately 3% silk, which gives shine to things. Plain weave is used for its manufacture. Batiste flows beautifully and forms elegant folds. Good for long dresses.

Whichever type of silk you choose, the main thing is to avoid synthetic fakes and you can be sure of the quality of the product. Silk does not cause allergies, and clothes made from it proper care makes you happy for many years.