How to increase the dress pattern by 2 sizes. A quick way to increase the pattern of trousers

Hello Nina!

When you start sewing, a sewing magazine is not a great helper, because even with it you feel your own insecurity.

Now I will write what I am doing and what to do for you so that the cut clothes fit you.

So we arm ourselves with a measuring tape, a pencil and a sheet and an assistant (some measurements cannot be taken on our own).

We open the size range of the magazine

Nearer women's sizes look like this

Even if your height is 168 cm, then your body parameters may not correspond to one of the sizes at all.

Your actions:

You look at the first drawing and measure your body according to the examples presented.

If you are shorter or taller, be sure to pay attention to the length of your back!

My parameters with a height of 184 differ from the tabulated ones so that I have to adjust the pattern by + 2cm above the waist and + 2cm below the waist at hips.

What does it look like? That's how

The third and fourth pictures show us how we can adjust the pattern for a height of 172cm. These are sizes 72-84 in Burda. If you need to shrink the pattern, overlap the pattern at the cuts.

I don’t have a large shoulder, and generally a thin top, I don’t make adjustments in the armhole.

I also increase the sleeve by 2cm.

How do you understand this? My back length is 2 cm longer than the table, from here I know how much I need to increase the upper half. This can be clearly seen if you attach the pattern to yourself.

The arm is also 2 cm longer than the table value, so I cut and lengthen in the elbow area.

How to cut? Perpendicular to the share (arrow on the pattern).

How to lengthen? I use a checkered sheet, it is convenient so as not to waste time on measuring centimeters.

What it looks like:

It was a coat and added in the armhole too.

It's the same with trousers. We measure the length of the trousers, the missing centimeters (or excess), add / subtract.

But there is another problem when the volume of the chest corresponds to one size, the waist - another, hips - the third.

In the patterns, the sizes are next to each other, and you just need to draw the very line of the size you want.

Here I drew it clumsily

Please note that the dimensions in the magazine do not coincide with the usual ones, they will be smaller by about 6 sizes. I have a breast size 46, I sew a size 40 on a burda.

When you sew a dress or blouse, you need to focus on OG, if trousers or a skirt - on OG.

Someone is left unclear, write, I will answer.

The same pattern can be used for three sizes. For example, if you have a pattern of size 46, you can sew a dress or blouse for two more adjacent sizes 44 and 48, having previously changed the patterns. It is not difficult and does not take a lot of time.

Consider a simple example: a sleeveless dress or blouse.

The difference between the sizes in the main measurements (bust, waist and hips) is 4 cm, which means that the difference between the HALF-girths is 2 cm. We are now talking about standard figures of the middle weight group.

Basic measurements of adjacent shapes

The size	Measurement units, cm
	Semi-girth of the chest	Half waist	Half hip
44	44	34	49
46	46	36	51
48	48	38	53
50	50	40	55
52	52	42	57

To increase / decrease the dress pattern (back and shelf) in width, you need to cut the pattern (back and shelf) vertically from the top point of the shoulder cut as shown in the figure. When increasing the width of the pattern, it is necessary to move the parts of the cut piece apart to the required distance, and when decreasing the width of the pattern, we put the pieces of the cut piece on top of each other.

Additionally, when changing the width of the pattern, add or subtract a certain amount along the side cut.

The distribution of the value of the total difference is as follows: on the line of vertical sections there are 2/3 of the total value and 1/3 falls on the side sections.

For example, if in the presence of a pattern of size 46, you need a pattern for a 48th size, then the difference between sizes of 2 cm should be distributed as follows:
on the line of vertical sections of the shelf and back 2x2 / 3 = 1.3 cm, on the line of side sections 2x1 / 3 = 0.7 cm.

Specifically between the back and the shelf, these values ​​are distributed as follows:

• along the cut line, move the shelf apart by 0.7 cm, the back - by 0.6 cm,
• along the line side cut we give 0.4 on the shelf, 0.3 cm on the back.

See drawing.

Note: The proposed distribution of the magnitude of the difference between the sizes refers to the methodology described on our website as a step-by-step instruction.

We present a simple and accurate way to easily increase or decrease a pattern by 1-2 sizes yourself.

For example, let's take a dress pattern model 114 from. The size range of the dress pattern is 36-44. Let's reduce it to size 34.

Pattern:

A short sheath dress with wide ties at the waist, intertwined in a knot, reminds of fashionable ...

Let's reshoot the bodice detail 22 and show how to make the necessary changes.

Instead of tracing paper, polyethylene was used in the master class. To translate the contours of the pattern - felt-tip pens.

Step 1. Retrieve part 22 for size 36 from the pattern sheet

We also reshoot the direction of the lobar thread, it is the same for all sizes.

Step 2. Draw a barrel for size 34

To do this, combine the barrel line reshomed for the 36th size with the barrel line for the 38th size on the pattern sheet.

We reshoot the 36th line and get the 34th barrel. In the corners, we combine the corner of the previously photographed 36th with the corner of the 38th size and again translate the 36th.

To translate the mark, combine the 36th mark with the 38th mark and again translate the 36th mark.

Step 3. Armhole

The armhole is complicated by the fact that its line is located at an unequal distance from the previous size, therefore, as a rule, it is impossible to absolutely accurately match the 36th size armhole areas with the 38th.

We start from the corner. We combine the corner and such a section of the armhole, which is possible for the exact alignment of the drawn 36th size and the lines of the 38th on the pattern sheet, and translate this piece. Then we move on to the next section.

At the end, adjust the upper corner.

Step 4. Relief line

This step must be performed in the same way as for the armhole line - in sections, starting from the corner.

Detail 22 for size 34 is ready!

By combining the previously captured 36th size (black lines) with the 36th size on the sheet of patterns, you can make sure that the 34th size we received (blue lines) is exactly the same distance from the 36th size as the other sizes. from friend.

How to enlarge a Burda pattern

You need to act in the same way, but in the opposite direction. Let's say you want to get 44th out of 42nd. You reshoot the 42nd, then combine it with the lines of the 40th and transfer the lines again to the 42nd. As a result, you get the 44th.

How to reduce or increase the Burda pattern by two sizes at once

If we want to get the 32nd out of the 36th, then we combine the captured lines of the 36th with the lines of the 40th and translate again the lines of the 36th. We get the 32nd.

The main principle is to draw lines of the new size only when the translated line of the 36th is exactly aligned with the line of the 40th. If there is no exact alignment, it is necessary to split the line into sections and adjust them sequentially.

Important!

This method works if the pattern has the same step between dimensions. Please note that the step of the usual patterns differs from the step of the plus sizes - in the first case, between the measurements for the circumference of the chest, waist and hips 4 cm, in the second - 6 cm.Therefore, if you want to convert the plus size to the usual size, this method may not work because of the step difference.

Is it all complicated?

It may look like this, but this is the most accurate way to get a pattern 1-2 sizes larger or smaller. In this master class, not the simplest detail was deliberately used - a bodice detail with curved lines, since it is much more difficult to correct them than details with straight lines. In total, you will spend no more than 30 minutes on reducing or increasing all the details of the pattern. Agree, a small "price" for "I really want this dress, but the magazine again does not have my size!"

Great sewing, everyone!

Olya learned to sew at school in labor lessons. In the future, the role of a sewing teacher was assigned to Burda magazine, when it became available to a wide range of people and appeared on the free market.

Prepared by: Julia Dekanova

It is difficult for women of short stature to choose clothes for themselves - the sleeves are always long, the waist is not in place, the trousers are dragging along the floor ... The solution is simple: sew yourself, because any pattern can be shortened! The standard pattern is designed for an average height of 168 cm, and this "injustice" can cause a lot of inconvenience to those who are noticeably below this bar. To shorten any pattern, you must make sure it fits your bust / hip girth - this is a must. If your main measurements coincide with those given in the Burda table, but the height is not standard, but short (not lower than 160 cm), then you can shorten the pattern along the auxiliary lines marked in the figures by the specified number of millimeters. If you are below 160 cm or your basic measurements differ from those given in the Burda table, then the number of millimeters by which the pattern should be shortened should be determined by you yourself.

If your height is above or below 160 cm and your measurements do not coincide with the data in the table, the excess number of centimeters should be determined independently: for the front / back, the main measure is the back length, for sleeves - sleeve length, for trousers - the length of the crotch seam. In any case, before you start adjusting the pattern, attach it to you and go to a large mirror - it will immediately become clear to you where and how to shorten the pattern!

Shoulder products

For dresses, blouses, jackets, coats, the pattern is adjusted at two levels: at half the height of the armhole - by 1/3 of the required number of millimeters and between the armhole and the waistline - by 2/3 of the required number of millimeters.

In addition, at approx. 15 cm below the waistline, you need to shorten the pattern by another 1 cm.In order for the sleeve to enter the armhole after adjusting the front / back, it should be shortened accordingly in the ridge section, and the sleeve with a flat head should be narrowed along the seam lines to the bottom edge.

If the design of the sleeve has a low ridge, then the height of the ridge is not changed, and the sleeve is narrowed / expanded from the ends of the ridge line to the lower edge along the lines of the sleeve seam, nullifying the drawn lines.

Skirts

Correction of the skirt pattern is performed at hip level. If the style of the skirt is tapering or widening downwards, the excess / lack of length is corrected along the line above the knee: in the middle of the upper leg.

Trousers

The pants are cut 10 mm at the top level, and at each of the other two levels, above and below the knee, by half the remaining length, by which they must be shortened. The figures show how to draw auxiliary (dashed) lines. The basic rule: the lines are drawn strictly at right angles to the arrow of the direction of the lobar thread.

ADJUSTING THE PATTERN

Above or below the correction line, draw a parallel line at the distance that you want to shorten the pattern. Fold in a fold on the pattern by aligning both drawn lines. Size comparison chart Standard sizes: 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Small sizes: 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Just halve! The measurements of both groups completely coincide, the difference is only in height: standard size assumes a height of 168 cm, and the size for short is 160 cm.

It often happens that we find a model we like in a magazine, but the dimensions in the description are larger or smaller than the one we need. Without fear of distortion of the cut, you can increase or decrease the pattern by 1-4 sizes using some technologies. Let's say make size 46 or 50 out of size 48. Let's see how to do it right.

So, having reprinted a pattern from a magazine, check the following measurements: chest circumference, waist, hips, shelf length to waist, shelf and back width, back length, neck circumference. Write down the resulting difference between your measurements and the size of the pattern - this will be the size of your increments.

If the cut of a dress or a blouse is simple - without undercuts, undercut barrels, then the increases and decreases are distributed along the lines shown in Figure 1. As you can see, they do not affect the undercuts: their depth and location do not change.

Draw the same vertical and horizontal lines on your pattern. Check your measurements (bust, waist, hips, etc.) against the pattern and mark where and what changes need to be made. Figure 2 shows an increase in the pattern by one size, when you need to add 4 cm around the chest circumference.This 4 cm can, of course, be distributed along the side seams, but the shape of the cut will be better preserved if the increments are distributed in different places: half a centimeter along vertical lines front, back, side seams and horizontally, as shown in the diagram. Amendments are also made to the sleeve - along the middle vertical line at the top of the side seam, the dart is not affected. The pattern is cut in places of increases, moves apart, and is drawn along new lines new pattern, which is then measured.

Figure 3 shows the reduction of the pattern by one size. The principle is the same, only the excess is removed, the pattern is pinned or glued in the places of the decrease.

If the cut is complex, for example, the barrel of the dress is tailored, then you can add and subtract only along the horizontal lines shown in Figure 4 and in the side seams. The cut lines are not touched so as not to distort the silhouette of the dress. Figure 5 shows where changes are made to the pattern of the jacket, when the growth needs to be increased and the size should be reduced. Naturally, the lines of the shoulder, sides, etc. are then aligned.

In a straight skirt, Figure 6, changes are made on both sides of the pattern (that is, in the center and sides of the skirt), they do not touch the darts and folds. In a flared skirt, Figure 7, you can add or subtract only in the upper part of the skirt (along the waist and hips) and do not change the width of the bottom. How to fit the sleeve is shown in Figure 8: the excess is stabbed, and added along the edge, seams and the central vertical.

How to "stretch" the pattern of the trousers is shown in Figure 9. The length of the trousers is regulated not only by hemming the bottom. It is necessary to cut the pattern twice horizontally (at the top and along the knee line) and once vertically.

After you have made a mold that suits you in size, you need to calculate the number of loops for the initial set, because in the description, this figure is indicated to a different size. To do this, you need to tie the sample with the viscous one that the product will be made with, steam it off and calculate the density (how many loops are in 1 cm in height and width). Multiplying these numbers, respectively, by the width and height of the product, you will find out how many loops you need to dial for the initial knitting and how many rows in height to knit.

Usually, if knitting of a product begins with an elastic band, for example, a sweater shelf, I dial 5-7 fewer loops and knit the elastic with one number less knitting needles. In this case, the elastic does not stretch when the product is worn. After elastic band tied, add the missing crochet stitches, distributing them over the entire total number of stitches.